Help identifying / yellow juniper?

[trigo]

Hi guys, im a beginner and have been lurking around here for one year already, now i decided to make a thread to try and get some help.

I have recently bought a juniper that i don't know wich variety it is and i would like some help from more experienced eyes.



I also have 2 other junipers one itoigawa that i bought around a month ago, + one that was sold to me labeled as just "shimpaku", bought one year ago. I have noticed that this shimpaku has changed it's color ALOT since i bought it.

Here is the picture from the store

here it is just before repoting one year ago


one year later next to my new unkown juniper

closer look

and now im going to show my itoigawa and the 3 of them side by side just to get some comparison



They get full sun, no shades, from sun up to sun down, have been fertilized and watered properly, at least i think...
I live in Brazil and we are currently on winter, but we don't get temperatures bellow 3ºC around here, and most days it stays hotter than that.

So here comes the questions, what is the variety of juniper number one?
Is the color of my "shimpaku" okay? is it normal for junipers to change colors this drastically?

 

[sorce]

If it was shipped it may have blued in the shade.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

 

[trigo]

If it was shipped it may have blued in the shade.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

The shimpaku that has turned yellowish and the itoigawa were indeed shipped, i think it took maybe a week from the nursery to my house for both of them. The itoigawa did not changed colors from when it arrived and from the nursery photos. The one in question is very different from the photo before beign shipped though.

The first one that im yet to identify i bought it from a local nursery.

 

[Shibui]

Look to what you have done since receiving the trees.
Yellowing usually = a: water problems; b: nutrient problems
Both will depend on how long since last repot, type of potting soil, subsequent care.
Since we can assume reasonably consistent care since you received these we need to look at nutrient and water.

The longer since repot the more problems turn up. As you have recently purchased you have no history, only signs and symptoms.
Solid soil and masses of roots indicates some time since last repot = time to repot or give extra care till next repot time. More roots = more difficulty watering and less nutrient. If the soil is hard try soaking weekly to ensure the tree has water. Light watering daily may not be enough for a root bound plant.

Lack of nutrients (N) leads to yellow foliage. Try fertiliser. Quick response liquid fert is faster to show results. The longer since repot the greater the likely hood of nutrient deficiency.

 

[trigo]

Look to what you have done since receiving the trees.
Yellowing usually = a: water problems; b: nutrient problems
Both will depend on how long since last repot, type of potting soil, subsequent care.
Since we can assume reasonably consistent care since you received these we need to look at nutrient and water.

The longer since repot the more problems turn up. As you have recently purchased you have no history, only signs and symptoms.
Solid soil and masses of roots indicates some time since last repot = time to repot or give extra care till next repot time. More roots = more difficulty watering and less nutrient. If the soil is hard try soaking weekly to ensure the tree has water. Light watering daily may not be enough for a root bound plant.

Lack of nutrients (N) leads to yellow foliage. Try fertiliser. Quick response liquid fert is faster to show results. The longer since repot the greater the likely hood of nutrient deficiency.

It was repoted one year ago, i use DE with perlite and turface. Been watering it everyday, it's a really free draining mix. I've been using osmocote 15-9-12 mixed with some organic fertilizers. All my other plants seem to be thriving in the same soil mix and watering/fertilizer regimen.

My water has 6.5 PH. Anyway... this color indicates tha something is wrong, right?

 

[Shibui]

Anyway... this color indicates tha something is wrong, right?

unless this particular variety has been selected for golden foliage but your info suggests that's unlikely. Looks more like there's some problem but hard to pin down given the info provided.
From all the above I'd be looking at the repot for possible cause as all other factors seem to be good.
I'm guessing from the standard of the trees that you are relatively experienced. What was the original soil like at repot? How much was left on the root ball to go into the new soil?
Asking because occasionally where inner soil is very different to the new soil water and new roots don't cross the boundary well which means roots stay confined to the original soil ball inside and don't occupy the new soil. Inner soil can stay wet or dry even though the new, outer soil is ideal. Try checking moisture content of the inner soil ball close to the roots. A wood skewer makes a good moisture meter.

 

[trigo]

unless this particular variety has been selected for golden foliage but your info suggests that's unlikely. Looks more like there's some problem but hard to pin down given the info provided.
From all the above I'd be looking at the repot for possible cause as all other factors seem to be good.
I'm guessing from the standard of the trees that you are relatively experienced. What was the original soil like at repot? How much was left on the root ball to go into the new soil?
Asking because occasionally where inner soil is very different to the new soil water and new roots don't cross the boundary well which means roots stay confined to the original soil ball inside and don't occupy the new soil. Inner soil can stay wet or dry even though the new, outer soil is ideal. Try checking moisture content of the inner soil ball close to the roots. A wood skewer makes a good moisture meter.

It was pure clay, not much of the old soil was left, most of it crumbled away while repotting. I tought it was fine since it's been 12 months already and it even sprouted new growth. Not knowing exactly what variation of shimpaku this is also does not help . I don't really think watering is the problem, if it is indeed nutrient deficiency, how long would it take to see some changes after applying liquid fertilizer?

 

[Shibui]

if it is indeed nutrient deficiency, how long would it take to see some changes after applying liquid fertilizer?

I usually see improved color within a few weeks of giving yellow trees liquid fert.
The repot sounds good with little old soil in the pot so I'm out of ideas now.
Good luck

 

[Japonicus]

It was repoted one year ago, i use DE with perlite and turface. Been watering it everyday, it's a really free draining mix. I've been using osmocote 15-9-12 mixed with some organic fertilizers. All my other plants seem to be thriving in the same soil mix and watering/fertilizer regimen.

My water has 6.5 PH. Anyway... this color indicates tha something is wrong, right?

If I used this soil composition, the moisture retention would be so great I would have problems.
I am still working, so unable to water during the heat of the day for a good 8 hrs in full Sun.
Still I have to omit the DE, as it holds water like a wet rag. i Never use perlite and the turface I use is 1/4 inch
Monto Clay to keep with particle size of the rest of my components.

It was pure clay, not much of the old soil was left, most of it crumbled away while repotting.

This may likely be the issue, except that you are watering every day in Winter….

 

[trigo]

I usually see improved color within a few weeks of giving yellow trees liquid fert.
The repot sounds good with little old soil in the pot so I'm out of ideas now.
Good luck

I will try to apply some liquid fertilizer and see what happens. thanks.

If I used this soil composition, the moisture retention would be so great I would have problems.
I am still working, so unable to water during the heat of the day for a good 8 hrs in full Sun.
Still I have to omit the DE, as it holds water like a wet rag. i Never use perlite and the turface I use is 1/4 inch
Monto Clay to keep with particle size of the rest of my components.

This may likely be the issue, except that you are watering every day in Winter….

Even during winter, it's stays usually above 20ºC (70ºF i think?) during the day... yesterday it peaked at noon 32ºC. That aside, it is really dry during the winter. I've been following the visual cue that DE gives when it's dry, so i happen to water almost everyday because of that, but i will let it dry a bit more before watering the junipers.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Dang, way too much reading.
I own a chinenzis var. plumosa aurea that has yellow golden foliage.