Help with a Japanese Maple repot/ tree not doing so well.

[milkmanv1]

Hey guys, Just a few quick questions about a regular Japanese Maple that I uprooted from my other property (long story about the property, but yes I took the tree from property I own).

Basically it's a pretty young tree (1-2 years old) that most likely started growing due to my mother's full sized and pretty old ( she's had it since the 70's) JM throwing a seed which took root. This past sunday I uprooted it and brought it home, and it seemed rather healthy when I did so, other than a really wonky root system. I repotted it into a 5 gal plastic pot with a mixture of 10% Akama, 20-30% Perlite, and the rest regular potting soil.

I had the tree originally placed in a spot with basically full sun, and two days ago noticed the leaves scortching, I switched it to a spot with morning/early afternoon sun, and late afternoon shade. I still noticed it wasn't doing so hot after another day or so. So yesterday I moved it to a spot partial sun all day (underneath the big holly tree in my backyard where I have my feather leaf maples propagating happily). Then pruned off all the dead/dying leaves.

Basically today it doesn't look any happier/ might even look worse. I'm kinda scratching my head here wondering what to do with the tree, I would love to save the tree as it is a seedling from my mother's big JM, and I had some intersting plans for it in the year or two to come. (air layering the top for a standard bonsai, and using the bottom's really crazy/interesting root system for a root over rock.)

My only guesses are that I need a better draining soil mix (it seems that there is some soil compaction going on.) or that the daily pattern here in NJ has been scortching hot mornings/afternoons then downpours all night.

Any and all help is appreciated friends!
-Joe

 

[Poink88]

Why not go back to your property and airlayer a branch of your mom's big JM? You'll probably be much better off if you do that.

 

[Poink88]

BTW, expecting to see change in 2 days is unrealistic. Some things manifest slowly and can go on for days, weeks or even months. Your action likewise can take several days, weeks or months before you see the results. For now, let it be.

 

[0soyoung]

I think your only hope is to defoliate it now. Else the tree will almost certainly dehydrate and die. This is a very bad time to mess with JM roots.

 

[milkmanv1]

So I just went back outside to double check the tree, and I found mealy bugs crawling on the base of it !!! There were only a few crawling on the stem, and only a bit of the white shit they put out around one or two low lying branches. No scales in the bark either.

The soil is rather soggy as well.

This is my best guess as what to do.

Get it into a soil composed of mostly akama, maybe with just a layer of regular soil on top.

Start treating for those pesky mealy bugs with a chemical treatment?

Your thoughts?

I have a feeling that the mealybugs werent on the tree when I got it (but they could have been, I'm a bonsai/horticultural noob) and they've found their way to the tree at my house and are moving in because it is in a weakened state.

 

[Dav4]

Pictures please. Until then, put it in full shade and only water it when the soil is barely moist.

 

[milkmanv1]

Sorry for the blurry photo's but this should give you a general idea (mind you it's dark out and pouring again) The leaves are mostly brown and curled up, with a pretty high amount of die back, I've already taken off all the really dead leaves. Also a lot of the leaves are only parly red/green. Not sure, lack of direct sun I suppose?

Again, any help towards saving the Tree is greatly appreciated.

 

[xray360]

It may be in shock. Make sure the soil level isn't too high on the trunk. That can kill a maple or any tree even in the ground. Just another thing to troubleshoot, but it's probably not doing well from the transplant.

 

[Dav4]

The leaves look sun burnt...full sun and a compromised root system will do this. I'd leave it in mostly shade for the forseeable future and water cautiously. If it starts pushing more growth, give it a bit more sun. No more pruning, either (only remove 100% dead leaves). The tree needs to photosynthesize to repair itself.

 

[milkmanv1]

Do you think it needs a more well draining soil mix? Or do I just need to let the soil dry out pretty well before watering.

 

[Dav4]

Do you think it needs a more well draining soil mix?

Probably, but re-potting now will most likely kill it. Your best bet will be to nurse it through the year and re-pot next spring, assuming it survives.

 

[MACH5]

Pics are a bit blurry but I wonder now if what you might have is a fungus? In any case, I think it may be wise to do a preventative fungicide spray with something like Daconil. Even better is a product called ZeroTol that oxidizes and kills the fungus and/or bacteria on contact. However not as readily available as Daconil.


As far as soil, yes it definitely will help to let it dry a bit before watering again specially now that the tree's system is compromised. Keep away from soil that's too soggy, although I am not so sure that this is the genesis of your problem. In the future I would personally avoid regular potting soil in your mix. Akadama mixed with other open substrates will work just fine. I am a huge proponent of straight up akadama. It is in my opinion, but arguably, the best soil for deciduous material. Have used it for the past 15 years with excellent results.

 

[bougie nights]

I think you may have dug this up much too late in the season. Once the leaves are out, any harsh disruption of the roots will cause shock. Hopefully you didn't bare root it as well.
I would defoliate as was suggested or cut it back to a stump and make sure it does not remain wet.
Also, please complete your profile so we may see your location!

 

[Bill S]

Not saying just to be harsh, but you did just about everything wrong with this, might want to ask or reasearch first , especially with better plant material.

 

[milkmanv1]

So I guess for now the best plan of attack is to make sure it stays dry until it needs water. I guess i didn't realize I should have waited to take the tree. Haste makes waste as they say.

And is it unanimous that chopping it back to a stump (so that all the energy will go to the roots?) is best, or would it be better to leave the leaves with some life left in them so the plant can photosynthesize to a small degree..

I'm learning, most likely it will all be the hard way. But thats why i'm here asking quesions and I appreciate the help.

Cheers!

 

[MACH5]

I would say to NOT cut this tree and let it be. The only thing I would cut away are all dead branches/twigs. A spray with Daconil will not hurt it. A weak maple can easily get fungus specially in humid conditions. Best of luck with it and let us know how it fairs.

 

[milkmanv1]

If the tree makes it I'll definitely post some progress when I get around to my intended plans for the tree. Air layering to make 2 awesome trees (might be year....or three! haha).

I'll see if I can pop over to a home/garden store and get some anti-fungal spray, wouldn't be a bad thing to have on hand.

Also I'm gonna have to keep a close eye on this tree, I found a couple more mealy bugs on it today, but I think they are hopping over from a tropical plant that belongs to my sister, that is a lot healthier, and was very close to where I orginally placed the JM in full shade. I moved it to a more secluded spot under the big holly in my backyard. I've just been picking off the little free-loaders and squishing them, seeing as I'm not yet over-run by them.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Bill S]

I agree, no work on this until at least next year.
For the watering, keep it damp/moist without it being wet, dry doesn't work well with plants. I realize it kind of sounds like splitting hiars, but it's what you need to figure out.

 

[0soyoung]

... chopping it back to a stump (so that all the energy will go to the roots?) is best, or would it be better to leave the leaves with some life left in them so the plant can photosynthesize to a small degree..

I'm learning, ...

I'll take a stab at trying to explain:

The problem you are dealing with is a feed-back loop. Roots supply water and minerals to the leaves. The leaves use these (and CO[sub]2[/sub] from the air) to make sugars which are food for the tree and the roots in particular. When you dug it up, the roots were damaged, reducing their capacity to deliver water and minerals. The leaves now cannot get enough water so they droop and dry out (die) and, consequently, food (sugar) production plummets. It is a vicious cycle downward that you are trying to stop. The recommendations you've been given all include strategies to reduce the water loss through the leaves.

Meanwhile, start reading the articles at evergreengardenworks.com.

 

[rrgg126]

any updates on this tree?