Help with hair line crack in green ware pls

August44

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I have a nice pot that I made that is still just a little bit wet yet, but almost dry. When moving it, I bumped the rim and knocked a small (3/4" long x 1/4" deep) out of the rim. The piece was no good as it was in pieces. I put a wet rag on the area and let the area get a little moist and put in a new piece of clay. I used white vinegar as a bonding agent and things looked good. I covered the area with press and seal plastic and let it dry. I have a hair-line crack around where the two pieces were put together in some places. I have tried to fill the crack by using vinegar and clay and pressing it into the area, but continue to get the crack back. I thought about just bisque firing it and filling the crack with "Bisque Fix" after it comes out. Not sure that is the answer. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Peter
 

sorce

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Death by Water.
Death by Hammer.


Life by Fire.

"It depends".

Sorce
 

August44

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Ok Mr.sorce (emphasis on MR!) in lingo that I can understand pls.
 

Ericc

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Try the same procedure with sodiumsilicate instead of vinegar. Also equilibrate the “dampness” of the pot and piece for a day or 3 before glueing it on, dry under plastic.
It will remain a challenge.
 

penumbra

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I have no problem mending greenware or even bisque but cracks tend to stay nonetheless. Often I can cover them with glaze.
 

ABCarve

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I don’t even try to fix. I’m with Sorce, hammer it. It will always be a weak spot. Maybe fire separately and then glue and gold. You can spend more time fooling with it than it takes to make a new one.
 

August44

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I have no idea what "glue and gold" or "Kintsugi" means guys. Help me out pls
 

bwaynef

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They're referring to a process where broken(n?)ess becomes a feature and pottery is repaired with gold. Its a pretty in-depth process to do traditionally. A little gold dust and super glue doesn't give the exact results ...but most folks can identify with it.
 

Mike Hennigan

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If the crack doesn’t get worse after bisque. You can just glaze it. The glaze will fill the crack and strengthen it to some degree. Or maybe try repair with a really thick paper clay slip.
 

August44

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That was amazing for sure! Thanks for the link
 
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I made 3 pots in the time it took to read this post.

The best advice I got very early on was to not get attached to the piece. This is a learning experience... dump it and make an even better pot knowing what you know now.

Take it from me, a serial lip dinger.
 

August44

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You probably throw with a wheel. I hand build and am new so all my pots are special to me. I will get to the "hammer" and "fire" soon enough I suspect. I will do the best job I can repairing it, bisque it, repair again if I have to with "bisque fix and then glaze and fire again an see what happens. Might be in the garbage can before you know it. Thanks for all the suggestions! Peter
 

Gsquared

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I rarely have luck w glaze filling cracks. It happens but not as often or well as I hope. If a piece cracks as greenware I try to fix (vinegar, magic water etc.) it and let it dry but if the crack reappears once bone dry, scrap it. It will just get worse in the kiln.

I am a major dissenter when it comes to kintsugi on bonsai pots. REAL kintsugi is done with lacquer, not epoxy (like the kits sold on Amazon) and we just don’t have the lacquer know how in the US. I’ve seen it mostly done on tea bowls and other very old, auspicious pieces, and it is exquisite. I’ve never seen a good epoxy “kintsugi” (including my own lame attempts) most are just downright ugly. And I really don’t think it would hold up to the weather demands bonsai pots must endure.
 
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ABCarve

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I am a major dissenter when it comes to kintsugi on bonsai pots. REAL kintsugi is done with lacquer, not epoxy (like the kits sold on Amazon) and we just don’t have the lacquer know how in the US. I’ve seen it mostly done on tea bowls and other very old, auspicious pieces, and it is exquisite. I’ve never seen a good epoxy “kintsugi” (including my own lame attempts) most are just downright ugly. And I really don’t think it would hold up to the weather demands bonsai pots must endure.
I mostly agree with you, it’s overused and poorly executed. However, the reason they used lacquer is that they didn’t have JB weld. As far as longevity, I’ve seen pots with JB go through 5 years of freeze/thaw cycles without incident.
 
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