Help with my first Mugo

AuBonsai

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This was a mugo that my parents wanted out of their garden and I thought it had some potential down the line. This is my first pine and would really appreciate some design help or any suggestions for that matter. Thank you.
 

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Vance Wood

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So am I correct in making the assumption that this tree was dug out of the ground this spring? If that is so leave it alone till next year or you will probably kill it.
 

KennedyMarx

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Did you mess with the roots much? I know that Vance has given out directions for Mugo maintenance (in a thread if you search) that said only to change out the soil a third at a time. In the same thread I think he described when to decandle and some other stuff.
 

AuBonsai

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I dug it this year and did not touch any of the roots just clipped off any dead branches
 

Vance Wood

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I dug it this year and did not touch any of the roots just clipped off any dead branches

I do not see how you could have dug the tree out of the ground and not disturbed the roots. Wait till the middle of July and if the tree is still doing well then we can talk about some styling decisions, but until then I would leave it alone----- and I have done a ton of Mugos.
 

Paradox

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Its a nice mugo that looks like it might have some potential to be a nice tree someday.
Its not worth possibly losing the tree just to get a year jump start.

Vance is the mugo expert. I think hes done more with mugos than anyone else here.
I would listen to his advice: leave the tree alone and let it recover. Ive followed his guidance with my own mugos and so far hes been spot on.


Pines are not like deciduous trees, they dont take kindly to being over worked.
One insult per year is pretty much the rule unless its a situation where if you dont act youll lose the tree anyway. Lifting it from the ground is an insult. Root pruning is an insult, branch pruning is another insult.
 

Vance Wood

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Its a nice mugo that looks like it might have some potential to be a nice tree someday.
Its not worth possibly losing the tree just to get a year jump start.

Vance is the mugo expert. I think hes done more with mugos than anyone else here.
I would listen to his advice: leave the tree alone and let it recover. Ive followed his guidance with my own mugos and so far hes been spot on.


Pines are not like deciduous trees, they dont take kindly to being over worked.
One insult per year is pretty much the rule unless its a situation where if you dont act youll lose the tree anyway. Lifting it from the ground is an insult. Root pruning is an insult, branch pruning is another insult.

Actually lifting from the ground is a major insult greater than all others.
 

xray360

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Yours looks like it is headed towards this style. I'm not a big fan of the 3 pom pom look, but I always see this one pop up on google images.

4722211422_Bonsai_Tree_xlarge.jpeg
 

Vance Wood

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Yours looks like it is headed towards this style. I'm not a big fan of the 3 pom pom look, but I always see this one pop up on google images.

View attachment 35510

You realize that this photo is not of a Mugo Pine or any Pine for that matter? I do agree that the style pictured here is not a good choice but is often associated with first effort Mugo Pines because of the way they grow.

The Mugo that is the subject of this thread is going to need years of effort to make into credible bonsai depending on the direction the grower is going to choose for it. Most people try to make the best of what they see in front of them not realizing that often the best choice of a viable form starts with a major reduction. The real problem hides in the fact that most people starting out don't want to consider this option or are unable to take that step. It is often easier to accept a going nowhere bonsai, thinking that it will get better with age, than it is to imagine a great bonsai where you cannot see the physical results of the actions you choose to make today.
 

Paradox

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Unfortunately most of us starting out need to learn how to see the tree that a particular piece of material might become and to recognize when the potenial just isn't there. We also need to learn not to be scared of cutting off that branch that doesn't add to the potential of the tree. Like great bonsai, this takes time
 

xray360

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You realize that this photo is not of a Mugo Pine or any Pine for that matter? I do agree that the style pictured here is not a good choice but is often associated with first effort Mugo Pines because of the way they grow.

Yes. I was just pointing out the style.
 

Vance Wood

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Yes. I was just pointing out the style.

...And I was not criticizing you doing so, you were absolutely correct. However most beginners think Cascade or Literatti, or Formal Upright. With material like this you have to go looking for the best possible feature on the tree and imagine what can develop out of that feature. Sometimes you have many directions with good possible results and sometimes you have but one. The challenge is in knowing--- not many trees are hopeless, they just need to be directed and then let alone for a while. The magic happens in the year or two you are playing with other toys and this one is developing some character you did not dream of; but only hoped for.
 
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xray360

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...And I was not criticizing you doing so, you were absolutely correct. However most beginners think Cascade or Literatti, or Formal Upright. With material like this you have to go looking for the best possible feature on the tree and imagine what can develop out of that feature. Sometimes you have many directions with good possible results and sometimes you have but one. The challenge is in knowing--- not many trees are hopeless, they just need to be directed and then let alone for a while. The magic happens in the year or two you are playing with other toys and this one is developing some character you did not dream of; but only hoped for.

As a beginner myself the most important designing step to take is finding the trunk line first. Especially with stock that might have multiple possibilities. I'm learning that establishing a solid trunk line can help lead to better design choices. If you draw a tree from imagination on paper, the first part you would draw is the trunk, so in bonsai why would that differ? You wouldn't work on the foliage first and then draw a trunk.
 

Vance Wood

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As a beginner myself the most important designing step to take is finding the trunk line first. Especially with stock that might have multiple possibilities. I'm learning that establishing a solid trunk line can help lead to better design choices. If you draw a tree from imagination on paper, the first part you would draw is the trunk, so in bonsai why would that differ? You wouldn't work on the foliage first and then draw a trunk.

You have the right idea just remember; with Mugos you have to be careful that you do not remove too much green stuff at a time, number one, and number two; when you cut large branches and multiple trunks you have to leave stubs then cut flush latter.
 
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