Help with Stewartia decision

[aypapayay]

Recently got this Stewartia Monadelpha and would love your advice as I’m thinking to achieve taper by doing a trunk chop, so would you do a whole saw diagonal chop below the 2 leaders? Or would you take leader #1 only? #2 only? Or just leave it and let ramification take care of the visible flaws. I know Stewartia main feature is the bark. Thanks in advance!

 

[rockm]

Recently got this Stewartia Monadelpha and would love your advice as I’m thinking to achieve taper by doing a trunk chop, so would you do a whole saw diagonal chop below the 2 leaders? Or would you take leader #1 only? #2 only? Or just leave it and let ramification take care of the visible flaws. I know Stewartia main feature is the bark. Thanks in advance! View attachment 460848

One has gotta go. They're both pretty much the same. Pick one and saw at a relatively steep angle from the crotch of the two leaders towards the outside of the trunk below. If you're in an area that freezes in the winter, wait until Spring to do this.

 

[NaoTK]

Nice tree! I would keep both. Pick one to be the dominate canopy and over time allow it to get thicker and wider.

 

[SouthernMaple]

leave it be, i think you will have more problems later on if you saw one off. you have a very unique tree here most stewartias that i grow are nothing like this. If you don't want it I know plenty of people that would be interested in it, i would use picture two as my front and prune off that branch heading straight at us

 

[BobbyLane]

I like your 3rd idea. Looks like it might have the basal flare to pull off a naturalistic broom shape too.
Maybe thats what the previous owner was thinking.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Stewartia bonsai is typically grown as a central trunk type of broom style. They do heal cuts pretty quickly so I would not hesitate to remove one to improve taper. The best view of the base should determine which one stays. Find the front and remove the back one. Wait until spring.

Leaving both could lead to some reverse taper issues later. Enjoy, Stewartia are really rewarding trees.

 

[penumbra]

Its easy to say leave both but the more I look at it the more convinced I am that I would loose trunk #2.
Hope you have 10+ years.

 

[aypapayay]

Nice tree! I would keep both. Pick one to be the dominate canopy and over time allow it to get thicker and wider.

I’m afraid it’s starting to show some inverse taper. That’s the reason I’m thinking over time this could be a major problem. What do you think? And thanks for the input.

 

[aypapayay]

Its easy to say leave both but the more I look at it the more convinced I am that I would loose trunk #2.
Hope you have 10+ years.

Thanks Penumbra it’s my understanding Stewartia heals fairly easy. If I’ve learn something with bonsai it’s to be patience but 10 years sounds like a long time to heal. If that’s what you meant! Let me know if you have experience with Stewartia, Would continue to do research as I have till spring to make this decision.

 

[aypapayay]

I like your 3rd idea. Looks like it might have the basal flare to pull off a naturalistic broom shape too.
Maybe thats what the previous owner was thinking.

Yes it does but it’s tilted to one side and it’s seems like the flare it’s only on the side looking for stability. Which makes it an easy front. But what do you think about the reverse taper that’s starting to show? Thanks!

 

[aypapayay]

Stewartia bonsai is typically grown as a central trunk type of broom style. They do heal cuts pretty quickly so I would not hesitate to remove one to improve taper. The best view of the base should determine which one stays. Find the front and remove the back one. Wait until spring.

Leaving both could lead to some reverse taper issues later. Enjoy, Stewartia are really rewarding trees.

Brian thank you, that’s exactly what I was thinking and once I read your answer I noticed immediately how it’s starting to develop that inverse taper. It’s always intimidating that trunk chop. But your answer it’s reassuring. I will continue to Study this species before doing anything else. Should I cut tips to redistribute energy to inner buds before it looses its leafs? They started color changing 10 days ago.

 

[SouthernMaple]

ryan neil says once you have reverse taper on stewartia its almost impossible to get rid of, have you thought about ground layering it at the thickest point?

 

[BobbyLane]

Yes it does but it’s tilted to one side and it’s seems like the flare it’s only on the side looking for stability. Which makes it an easy front. But what do you think about the reverse taper that’s starting to show? Thanks!

Its not an issue for me on some trees, in regards to a broom style tree it helps if you can balance it out with a flaring base. one can find many such examples online. if its something that bothers you then do the chop.

one example of a maple I had. sure, many years down a swelling could emerge where the sub trunks split, but chopping one off destroys a nice lil tree. while a swelling may emerge overtime, the basal flare will also become wider and balance the image out.

 

[aypapayay]

Its not an issue for me on some trees, in regards to a broom style tree it helps if you can balance it out with a flaring base. one can find many such examples online. if its something that bothers you then do the chop.

Thank you I will definitely look at some examples I’m open to different ideas. Some times we don’t have to go by the book as nature shows us. I appreciate your input. Cheers!

 

[BobbyLane]

im not sayin you should, but what some do is create a hollow or V cut between two subs. maybe not suitable for stewartia tho but its just one way to deal with potential swelling.
but see here also the base is very wide

good luck with it!

 

[aypapayay]

ryan neil says once you have reverse taper on stewartia its almost impossible to get rid of, have you thought about ground layering it at the thickest point

That’s an idea I haven’t even think about. Hmmm now things are getting complicated lol. Don’t you think a diagonal trunk chop on one of those will take care of the inverse taper?

 

[aypapayay]

im not sayin you should, but what some do is create a hollow or V cut between two subs. maybe not suitable for stewartia tho but its just one way to deal with potential swelling.
but see here also the base is very wide

good luck with it!

Very interesting way to deal with it. Love it, I’m not sure if that’s the way I’m going to go, see I feel that if the main trunk was shorter it would of work better but that’s brilliant. Will serve as inspiration at some point for sure.

 

[SouthernMaple]

That’s an idea I haven’t even think about. Hmmm now things are getting complicated lol. Don’t you think a diagonal trunk chop on one of those will take care of the inverse taper?

I would be worried about the dieback?

 

[aypapayay]

Its not an issue for me on some trees, in regards to a broom style tree it helps if you can balance it out with a flaring base. one can find many such examples online. if its something that bothers you then do the chop.

one example of a maple I had. sure, many years down a swelling could emerge where the sub trunks split, but chopping one off destroys a nice lil tree. while a swelling may emerge overtime, the basal flare will also become wider and balance the image out.

I see exactly what you meant now, I’m sure as I reduce the roots and fit it into a bonsai pot the overall image will improve as it will expose the flare and balance the composition.

 

[aypapayay]

I would be worried about the dieback?

Ok will definitely do some thinking. Thanks!