Hemlock Apex

Aeast

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Hello all,

I'm having some trouble deciding what to do with the apex of this hemlock. The large branch on the left is giving me trouble and I can't figure out what to do with it. I have the small leader in the center wired as the new apex but am open to suggestions. 20170806_191819.jpg 20170806_191812.jpg
 

0soyoung

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I would have picked the heavy branch on the left to be the apex instead of the thin weakling which would do better as a high branch.But actually, I would move down one node and start building the next and possibly apical trunk section with the heavy branch on the right (point it up and re-chop down to it). I think you will wind up with a tall&skinny image where you've chosen, but that is up to you - just trim the trunk chop down to the branch you are going to use.
 
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Agree, in that that you should be thinking about a smaller tree, and then letting the new top and selected portions of the bottom branches run wild to increase the taper. This is a project tree, but the species is right for a quality bonsai. It just might take a lot of fertilizer and sacrifice (growth).
 

Aeast

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I can recut it lower and pick a new apex, that top cut was just a natural jin I cut off.
If I cut it at the arrow and wire that up as the new apex, how would I accomplish this? That is quite the distance to move that branch.

Also, if i let those bottom branches gro out as sacrifice branches how would I get back budding close to the trunk?
20170807_195059.jpg
 

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Wire the branch with an anchor around trunk below the branch.
Bend the branch up (you can add what ever movement you like at the same time).

It is up to you to decide when you complete the chop. I think it is sometimes helpful to keep it a bit long initially. You then can add a zip tie, say, to pull the branch in close to the present trunk line. Next spring it can be removed and the chop trimmed - it will be clear what the 'sap line' is in the cambium is by then.
 

ghues

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If it's anything like it's western cousins you WONT get any back budding period. With Western and mountain that I've played with (for branch selection) its better to sacrifice bigger branches (jin'n them) as all the growth is out at the ends....for the smaller branches which have growth closer to the trunk. This provides better balance IF you are looking for the ancient weathered look.
If you decide to use one of the bigger branches as your new leader you can use wire as described in the post above but also add a small saw cut at the top of the junction of branch and main stem, as you move the new leader into place (more parallel to the main track) it will fall into place more easily.....trick is ....not the bend it upwards to hard initially as you may tear the lower portion of the junction.......easy to follow hey.....
 

Aeast

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Clear as mud! No I understand what your saying. Thanks for the advice everyone, I appreciate it. I'll give it a go
 

Aeast

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It is an eastern, that's what I thought too, most this size have rather smooth bark.
 
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You know, before you chop, consider going for more of a flat-top pine or bald cypress style. There is a long straight section of trunk near the top which is why everyone (including myself previously), has told you to chop it, but what if you remove at least the first two branches from the bottom as well as the too thick one on top you mentioned. Put it in a bunjin pot and imagine some ramification like the hemlock in this thread https://bonsainut.com/threads/eastern-hemlock-top.9933/page-3#post-479982
 

Aeast

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I'm trying to imagine what you're saying, I need someone with computer skills to draw a virt. I'm more of a visual learner.

On a different topic, how would one go about chasing the roots back on this tree? From these pictures before collection you can see most off the roots are quite a ways from the trunk.
 
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I'll try to take a stab at a virtual for the deign I discussed earlier, but it might be a while as I am pretty busy with work and family these days. No matter which design you go with, reducing the thicker portions of the upper branches in favor of natural movement and ramification could help the design down the road, or could get chopped off if you decide to chop it.
Those are some nice roots down there. I have been real conservative with the roots on my hemlock, just because it is my only yamadori, but it has given every indication of having strong roots that take well to reduction. In general you will need to ground layer in order to bring the roots in. You can do this a couple ways. One is more passive and less guaranteed but less risky, which is to plant it deeper, which it looks like you have already and hope that some roots sprout further in and the outer roots can be reduced. Or more actively, you can remove or damage the bark around the roots where you want new roots to sprout, apply rooting hormone and some spagnum moss, and recover with some soil. Since there is not a lot of institutional knowledge with hemlock, and how it responds, you may want to stick with the first method, reducing thicker outer roots a few at a time duiring repotting, but also experimenting on some of the outer roots with hormone and bark removal, to see how it responds.
 
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I haven't done a virtual in years, but this is roughly what I was thinking about. Keep that lowest branch for now as it can always be removed later. No matter what design you go for you have to remove that thick perpendicular branch to the left, and think about cutting the 2nd branch from the top to the right back, both to preserve the ramification that it has and to arrest it's development so it doesn't get too thick.

I now think opening up the trunk some is your best plan. I've also heard (on this great forum) that these "spot graft" well.. drill a small hole and poke a small branch, that is still attached, into the hole sideways and put some cut paste around. Not that you are missing branches for this design, but there are other possibilities down the road. I have a bunch of sown hemlock seeds that I am hoping will pop up this spring and I plan on trying some more cuttings so that I have more material to try radical techniques on this species with myself.
 

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To clarify, if you like the design I had in mind, start at the top and work your way down. You can style the top third of the tree and leave most of the lower branches on.. it’s not like they will shade out anything important, and you can use their energy to help bring the roots in.
I’m looking forward to see how the roots progress. Try using some fresh hormone (I hear it degrades easily) and some long grain spaghnum mixed with soil, in and around the exising roots. There is some really nice rootage there, but just spread out too far. If you can bring it in and eventually fit it in to a smaller drum, I think this will be a killer bunjin.
 

Aeast

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I did some pretty major root work this spring and to get the tree into a much smaller grow box. Just trying to chase the roots back for now. The tree responded well to the re pot and is pushing out plenty of new growth.

I'll start styling next year after it has had some time to recover.
 

Aeast

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Here's the tree as of today. Just trying to keep the new growth pinched back. This is the chosen front, and given the large space void of roots in the front, we might try a pseudo root over rock design with a custom pot.
20180609_190736.jpg
 
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