SU2
Omono
I'll be applying lime sulfur to anything I carve going forward*, however for things that I already carved & just have deadwood right now that I don't want to change the shape of, but does have green algae, which cleaners can I use w/ my brush to clean in preparation of lime sulfur application? Go-to's are isopropyl and h202(peroxide at 3%), I guess my hang-up here is that I know it's good to have the wood damp (but not wet) when applying the sulfur, however since I need to clean some areas of deadwood before applying the sulfur I'm wondering if I can use iso or h202 to brush-clean the areas and then, that afternoon, apply the lime-sulfur? Or do I need to wait a day for the chemicals to leave the wood before application?
Thanks for any help on this one, just got my first bottle and want to be sure I'm approaching it right
(*Another thing I'm real uncertain on- what if I'm carving-into 'live' sap-/heart-wood, for instance making a long/skinny vertical hollow down a long trunk, do I apply lime sulfur to the freshly-exposed wood there? If I don't, I know it'll develop the dead outer-layer and start turning dark colors with bacteria/mold/algae, at which point I know it's a candidate for lime sulfur treatment, what I'm unsure of is whether (and when) I should be applying it to areas that were sap-/heart-wood and are still naturally wet?)
Alright time to check that I've got all the protective gear outside and give this Bonsai-Jack lime sulfur a go, after watching many youtubes it's almost like the stuff is a paint (in terms of how striking the contrasts sometimes are), am a bit conflicted about "general aesthetic tastes" insofar as bleaching deadwood on broadleafs (especially tropical broadleafs) is, so far as I know, a faux pas - yet I've seen enough bougies with this treatment that maybe it's not as bad to do as I'd thought (and/or you just *gotta* apply it to prevent rapid degradation of the wood), though *IMO* something like this looks a bit silly:
I dunno, I guess something could be said for such striking differences between bark/deadwood/flowers/moss, though IMO this ^ thing's design looks like it's just conspiring to make the tree look as fake as possible.. while the perfect moss could be done away with, there's always going to be the "3 sharply-different-colors" effect for bougies (my most abundant species) when they've been treated w/ sulfur and are in-flower, perhaps burnishing (torching) is a better solution for bougies than l.sulfur is?
Thanks for any help on this one, just got my first bottle and want to be sure I'm approaching it right
(*Another thing I'm real uncertain on- what if I'm carving-into 'live' sap-/heart-wood, for instance making a long/skinny vertical hollow down a long trunk, do I apply lime sulfur to the freshly-exposed wood there? If I don't, I know it'll develop the dead outer-layer and start turning dark colors with bacteria/mold/algae, at which point I know it's a candidate for lime sulfur treatment, what I'm unsure of is whether (and when) I should be applying it to areas that were sap-/heart-wood and are still naturally wet?)
Alright time to check that I've got all the protective gear outside and give this Bonsai-Jack lime sulfur a go, after watching many youtubes it's almost like the stuff is a paint (in terms of how striking the contrasts sometimes are), am a bit conflicted about "general aesthetic tastes" insofar as bleaching deadwood on broadleafs (especially tropical broadleafs) is, so far as I know, a faux pas - yet I've seen enough bougies with this treatment that maybe it's not as bad to do as I'd thought (and/or you just *gotta* apply it to prevent rapid degradation of the wood), though *IMO* something like this looks a bit silly:
I dunno, I guess something could be said for such striking differences between bark/deadwood/flowers/moss, though IMO this ^ thing's design looks like it's just conspiring to make the tree look as fake as possible.. while the perfect moss could be done away with, there's always going to be the "3 sharply-different-colors" effect for bougies (my most abundant species) when they've been treated w/ sulfur and are in-flower, perhaps burnishing (torching) is a better solution for bougies than l.sulfur is?