Hornbeam pre-bonsai roots at uneven height

[Bonsai Tree]

Hello, I have this small European Hornbeam which I'm looking to develop. As you can see from the pictures, the roots are not all at the same height. If I plant (I intend to use a pond basket filled with bonsai soil) the tree at an angle so as to put the roots at an equal height, will this be a viable solution? Also, as for the space between the roots where no roots seem to be emerging, if I continue over several years to prune the roots, will the tree push out new roots to fill those gaps? Perhaps repotting it and scoring lower trunk and rubbing rooting hormone may work?I'm open to all sugestions, even having to air layer to create good nebari. Thanks.

 

[luvinthemountains]

Hello, I have this small European Hornbeam which I'm looking to develop. As you can see from the pictures, the roots are not all at the same height. If I plant (I intend to use a pond basket filled with bonsai soil) the tree at an angle so as to put the roots at an equal height, will this be a viable solution? Also, as for the space between the roots where no roots seem to be emerging, if I continue over several years to prune the roots, will the tree push out new roots to fill those gaps? Perhaps repotting it and scoring lower trunk and rubbing rooting hormone may work?I'm open to all sugestions, even having to air layer to create good nebari. Thanks.

Looks to me like the underside was cut on an angle, which would explain why the roots came out that way. If it worked with the rest of the tree, I would be tempted to plant it on an angle as you suggested.

 

[brentwood]

You could always just plan on ground layering it later, cross that bridge then. I might just cut them, but the ground layer plan lets you get the benefit of these roots for now. It's young enough it would probably not miss those roots, either, if you just want to cut them now.
Good luck!

B

 

[penumbra]

I would cut the upper roots flush.

 

[brentwood]

I would cut the upper roots flush.

I couldn't commit to saying that, but that was my reaction - makes me feel like I'm learning

B

 

[Bonsai Tree]

You could always just plan on ground layering it later, cross that bridge then. I might just cut them, but the ground layer plan lets you get the benefit of these roots for now. It's young enough it would probably not miss those roots, either, if you just want to cut them now.
Good luck!

B

Thanks. I'm in an apartment and don't have any ground that I can use to do a ground layer, so I'm stuck with air-layering if that's the route I must pursue.

 

[Bonsai Tree]

I would cut the upper roots flush.

If I were to do that, would the tree (not sure if this question relates specifically to the species) produce roots on the bare side of the trunk?

 

[brentwood]

Thanks. I'm in an apartment and don't have any ground that I can use to do a ground layer, so I'm stuck with air-layering if that's the route I must pursue.

It's basically the same process, an air layer that starts just above the existing roots. The idea is just to start fresh with new roots, cut off the old base of the tree once those get started enough to support the tree - could do in a grow pot.

Brent

 

[August44]

If I were to do that, would the tree (not sure if this question relates specifically to the species) produce roots on the bare side of the trunk?

When you say bare side of the trunk are you referring to the opposite side of where the cluster of bigger upper root are? If so you don't need roots there. It looks like there is plenty coming off of the bottom. I would get rid of the upper roots one at a time (1 per yr) until they're gone

I would not air layer the tree either. The tree will be just fine the way it is you just eliminate the big upper roots over time.

 

[Bonsai Tree]

When you say bare side of the trunk are you referring to the opposite side of where the cluster of bigger upper root are? If so you don't need roots there. It looks like there is plenty coming off of the bottom. I would get rid of the upper roots one at a time (1 per yr) until they're gone

No, I mean if I were to cut off the big roots flush to the trunk, that side of the trunk would then be bare. On that now bare side of the trunk, would the tree then produce new roots?

 

[caffeinated]

It most likely would, especially if you let the tree grow and root prune the other side later. There aren't any guarantees though.

 

[August44]

No, I mean if I were to cut off the big roots flush to the trunk, that side of the trunk would then be bare. On that now bare side of the trunk, would the tree then produce new roots?

I would say no it would not unless you encouraged that by scoring the area, using rooting hormone, and having that area below the soil level.

 

[Shibui]

Planting at an angle is a viable option provided you want a tree with initial trunk angle (bonsai often look better this way than vertical initial trunk). The tree will also need branching and trunk bends that compliment the new planting angle. Sometimes that works really well, sometimes the rest of the trunk won't allow the angle. As you haven't shown the upper trunk I can't say whether it's possible in this case.

Removing upper roots is a second alternative BUT look for reverse taper. Usually by the time the upper roots get to this size the trunk is thicker where those roots join in. Sometimes not noticeable until after you remove the roots. You also need viable roots below those upper ones to make it worth while to remove them. Some species will spontaneously grow new roots but it can be hit and miss.

If neither of the above are viable then consider the layer option. Layer will often give a much better root system overall than the natural roots.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Please share the entire image...a slant could be possible. With the roots holding it back...

I happen to like the slant style. As mentioned ... you've not shared the entire image. But those higher roots. Could be a nice feature. Adding additional character.

Example of my traditional Crabapple...moved into a slant style. But one needs to see the tree...if the bones...Lend to that style.

 

[luvinthemountains]

Is anybody else seeing this? It looks to me like the cambium was cut high on this side, and it has calloused - which explains why the roots are where they are. If they are cut off, I don't know if @Bonsai Tree is going to get roots any lower than where they are now!

 

[Cajunrider]

Check out this video for transferring root down the trunk.

 

[Bonsai Tree]

Is anybody else seeing this? It looks to me like the cambium was cut high on this side, and it has calloused - which explains why the roots are where they are. If they are cut off, I don't know if @Bonsai Tree is going to get roots any lower than where they are now!

View attachment 478229

That's interesting, and I think that you're correct. It seemed like there was a wound that was callousing over in that spot. If that's the case, over time, even after the wound heals and is planted below the soil level, it won't produce roots from there? Or do yoy just mean as it is healing. I appreciate everyone's replies, truly. I planted it at an angle, I'll post a picture shortly, just in case anyone is curious. I'll have to wait until next season to see what will have happened with the roots.

 

[Shibui]

Is anybody else seeing this?

Hard to be certain from a dark photo but possibly a large root was removed there. New roots are common from the exposed cambium around wounds which could explain those higher roots or they may just be residual roots from before the chop that have now grown thicker. The callus from the wound healing over is also likely to thicken the trunk thus increasing reverse taper if the high roots are removed.
Either way, scar tissue does not issue roots easily but they should develop above and below the scar if necessary.

 

[Bonsai Tree]

It's not planted at a drastic angle, but at a slight angle as compared to the small container it was previously in. These replies have given rise to a new question: what time period will be necessary to get rid of the inverse taper. My understanding (I think I read it somewhere in these forums, on this site) is that if the trunk has much developing to do still, then inverse taper isn't much to worry about. Is that true in this instance, where this small pre-bobsai tree will be treated as a long term project?

 

[Shibui]

Where is reverse taper?
In case there is there's no definitive answer. Each individual tree grows differently. Some are very obliging and reverse taper disappears in just a few years. Others are not so good and reverse taper just gets worse no matter what you try.
The more the trunk thickens the better your chance of it absorbing any reverse taper.

That new trunk angle suits the upper trunk so good result just leaving the roots and changing angle.