HorseloverFat’s “Azalea 2020-2025” contest entry... well possibly. ***DROPPED OUT***

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HorseloverFat

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I was going to wait until after blooming and my first “go” at removing some branches to fabricate my contest entry. However I am posting a few other threads for my projects, aaaand I’d be using these same pictures anyways.. so why not?

This is a Girard’s Pleasant white that I received a little under a week ago. it has since been untouched.. patiently waitin’ on bloom.

A more in-depth conversation had been had in my “Azalea questions...“ thread.

I am posting here, for your consideration...

Can I enter with this?

*finger guns* Lemme know!

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Pitoon

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I was going to wait until after blooming and my first “go” at removing some branches to fabricate my contest entry. However I am posting a few other threads for my projects, aaaand I’d be using these same pictures anyways.. so why not?

This is a Girard’s Pleasant white that I received a little under a week ago. it has since been untouched.. patiently waitin’ on bloom.

A more in-depth conversation had been had in my “Azalea questions...“ thread.

I am posting here, for your consideration...

Can I enter with this?

*finger guns* Lemme know!

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You're starting with new material so your entry is good to go. Just remember to post update pics as you progress with your tree.

Did you already repot that tree? I've never seen an azalea planted in gravel from a nursery before...….it's usually always in a peat/pine or fir bark mixture.
 

HorseloverFat

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You're starting with new material so your entry is good to go. Just remember to post update pics as you progress with your tree.

Did you already repot that tree? I've never seen an azalea planted in gravel from a nursery before...….it's usually always in a peat/pine or fir bark mixture.

Why yes I did. I repotted in a mix of DTM, Perlite, pine bark like 2:2:1 (Azomite in ”thurr” too)

I am waiting on the blooms to start “sculpting” :) I plan to “take it back” slowly, over a few seasons... non-committed to a concrete design idea.

Thank you!

I greatly look forward to this.
 

Pitoon

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I have a few Pleasant White's planted on my property, the flowers are nice and white.
 

HorseloverFat

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It is my first Azalea.. so it will be “the fixed norm” (for me) when it comes to providing care for them...

...well...

...more realistically probably for about 6 months until I buy a different kind (or two). 🤣

It’s no use resisting...
 

Forsoothe!

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That "Watched Pot" saying is not actually about water boiling. It really refers to pot bellies and that fictional "two pounds a year" thing...🍩
 

HorseloverFat

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So over these “dark days” (days when I couldn’t get on the site),.. it became pruning time....

Once I got in there, the inverse taper was SO bad.... definitely beyond my abilities to deal with. And if I HAD made the choice to “hide” it, I don’t feel I ever would be satisfied...

Sooooo. I had to prune BELOW it 😬

Here’s a picture of the moment I realized this (during some branch removal).

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So “here we go with the ‘cutting back to nothing but two stumps and starting over’”


New front. 🤣🤣🤣

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Leo in N E Illinois

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Ouch.
No doubt it will back bud and survive, but that is a bit drastic.

For future reference, when you have a tight cluster of branches that come from roughly the same point, the branch keep is one on the outside of the cluster. This will give you an unbroken line of bark from the roots. That unbroken line will very likely become the front of the tree.

If you cut the outer branches, and keep a middle branch, the branch can end up "circled" by wounds, This can potentially disrupt sap flow and result in death of that middle branch. Something like girdling the trunk. By choosing an outside branch, the girdling effect is minimized.

But you already solved the problem. Hopefully you will get good strong back budding.
 

HorseloverFat

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Ouch.
No doubt it will back bud and survive, but that is a bit drastic.

For future reference, when you have a tight cluster of branches that come from roughly the same point, the branch keep is one on the outside of the cluster. This will give you an unbroken line of bark from the roots. That unbroken line will very likely become the front of the tree.

If you cut the outer branches, and keep a middle branch, the branch can end up "circled" by wounds, This can potentially disrupt sap flow and result in death of that middle branch. Something like girdling the trunk. By choosing an outside branch, the girdling effect is minimized.

But you already solved the problem. Hopefully you will get good strong back budding.

Thank you, Leo.

I think I understand.. now. 😆
 

Pitoon

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………..that was drastic! You had some good potential with that twin trunk. I thinking cutting back certain branches back to the trunk would have been a better approach then doing a complete chop. Be sure to seal that cut as it will leak sap until it dries out. At this point you need to keep that point from drying out. Hopefully it back buds for you.

I've attached a twin trunk I finished pruning and wiring yesterday. You will notice a bulge on the trunk. this is where a large branch was cut back to. Once I can get the basic shape of the tree how I want it by that time I can comeback and rework that area. There is also a slight inverse taper at the base of the same trunk due to another bulge. In time I can work that down......in time.

I hope these pics gives you some ideas. This takes time, be patient and you will be rewarded down the road.

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HorseloverFat

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It is very sad... it was an emotional operation for me to perform..

*exhales*

Must try to focus on the positives.

1. Specimen will most likely survive and i will have a “blank canvass” to learn with/on.

2. I have 53 selected Girard’s pleasant cuttings trying to “gain ground”
 

Pitoon

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It is very sad... it was an emotional operation for me to perform..

*exhales*

Must try to focus on the positives.

1. Specimen will most likely survive and i will have a “blank canvass” to learn with/on.

2. I have 53 selected Girard’s pleasant cuttings trying to “gain ground”
@HorseloverFat don't beat yourself up over it. Main thing is to make sure it's sealed. For me, you cut it back to short, if it survives it will likely back bud very close to the crown. If it does what's your plan then? If it doesn't make it you can use your cuttings or go get another bush to start over. The whole purpose of this contest is to learn.
 

HorseloverFat

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@HorseloverFat don't beat yourself up over it. Main thing is to make sure it's sealed. For me, you cut it back to short, if it survives it will likely back bud very close to the crown. If it does what's your plan then? If it doesn't make it you can use your cuttings or go get another bush to start over. The whole purpose of this contest is to learn.

My plan is to attempt a stately, stoic twin trunk still... I had SO many good pieces already to make that happen... but i’m looking forward... so the plan still exists.. the path shifted slightly and altered the outcome.. but it’s still there..

(Yes, i’ve been re-sealing it at least twice a day as I noticed the flowing from under that you described)

Actually the day AFTER i made this enormous alteration.. I “went at” my Rhody (there‘s a thread on it in “flowering”)... They were still somewhat size-able prunes.. but I think I’m “getting the idea” when it comes to this particular thought.. now I just need more experience. :)

Couldn’t give up on the fella.. it’s MY fault he looks this. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

HorseloverFat

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Yesterday was the first day that this guy needed no additional paste... finally dry... the wound paste on my Rhodies from “three flowering trees in a trench coat walk into a bar” thread had sealed after the first two days... but this specimen... more exposure thicker “cuts”.. more sap...

Interesting.
 
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