How long should I leave wiring SUPPORT on?

[Mike Corazzi]

Last spring while wiring a juniper, I had ....TWO....accidents.

SNAP!.....oops.

I ...immediately... stuck the damage back together and with combination of cut paste, wire, and tether (on one) I got it back to where it was.

And FORTUNATELY.... the branches have thrived all summer and look very healthy.

I would, however, like to remove the bracing as soon as practicable and leave the SHAPING wire on.
I am thinking to leave it all winter before cutting off the "repair" stuff.

I can cut that off without disturbing the shaping wire.

Think that's long enough?

 

[Mike Corazzi]

Oh, okay. That's what I thought too.

 

[Paradox]

we typically leave wire until it starts to bite into the bark. The reason we do that is so that the healing will help to set the branch in place.

Do yourself a favor and invest in a good pair of bonsai wire cutters. They are designed to cut the wire off the branch with minimal to no damage to the branch.
I speak from experience when I say they are well worth the price.

 

[Stan Kengai]

Mike, Like all thing in bonsai, it depends. How thick are the branches in question? How vigorously have the branches grown in the meantime? Have the branches thickened a bit in that area?

I would guess you're talking about something phone charger wire diameter or smaller (something millennials might relate to). If the plant is being grown out, I would say the supports can be removed after a season. But it the plant is in the refinement stage, I might leave for 2 to 3 years, depending on the vigor of the branch. Often you can see signs of healing at the base of the branch. If you can see obvious thickening in the base, it's safe to remove the support. The thing that would worry me most is a lizard or frog on the branch or a cat rubbing against it before it is fully healed.

 

[qwade]

I have always thought that the best time to remove the SHAPING wire is about an hour before it bites into the bark. However, after reading this thread and from my experience, I would have to concur with Paradox's view that the healing scar does help to hold the branch in position. Also, I have not been too successful in removing that wire an hour earlier than the bite.

Some of my pines, in the growing season, start biting in after a few weeks. Best advice, monitor the branch and look for the 'bite'.

Yes as Paradox has noted a great pair of cutters is paramount. I have not found that best pair. Any suggestions?

 

[Potawatomi13]

IF any doubt then leave support on. Better safe than sorry. Also if in area of snow or ice leave on.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

I am going to leave the wire on at LEAST thru the winter. That was my plan in the beginning.

The branches are doing nicely. It's a relatively large juniper and I'd call the branch diameter a pencil and a half or so.

(it's my avatar)
I ...do.... have good wire cutters.

Bought em from Murayama for .....FIFTY FIVE DOLLARS!

Aiyeee!!!!!!!

 

[Paulpash]

With Junipers it's desirable to let it bite in a bit before removing - adds character

 

[twisted trees]

Last spring while wiring a juniper, I had ....TWO....accidents.

SNAP!.....oops.

I ...immediately... stuck the damage back together and with combination of cut paste, wire, and tether (on one) I got it back to where it was.

And FORTUNATELY.... the branches have thrived all summer and look very healthy.

I would, however, like to remove the bracing as soon as practicable and leave the SHAPING wire on.
I am thinking to leave it all winter before cutting off the "repair" stuff.

I can cut that off without disturbing the shaping wire.

Think that's long enough?

There's some serious overthinking going on here. Do what you think is right.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

There's some serious overthinking going on here. Do what you think is right.

That's right..... make it TOUGH !!!

 

[Kalebh]

Ok, I have a hinoki that I wired with Bjorn roughly three years ago and some of the larger wires still haven't set. I also have a friend who works with Bjorn regularly that mentioned to me he leaves his wires on a while after he notices the bite just to make sure the branches have set. This is due to hinoki branches bouncing back when the wires are removed ( which has happened to me.) So I don't think there is a straight forward answer to the question, just leave the wires on yearly until you notice fairly heavy bite. Then remove and rewire. Hopefully this helped.

 

[leatherback]

Ok, I have a hinoki that I wired with Bjorn roughly three years ago and some of the larger wires still haven't set. I also have a friend who works with Bjorn regularly that mentioned to me he leaves his wires on a while after he notices the bite just to make sure the branches have set. This is due to hinoki branches bouncing back when the wires are removed ( which has happened to me.) So I don't think there is a straight forward answer to the question, just leave the wires on yearly until you notice fairly heavy bite. Then remove and rewire. Hopefully this helped.

Considering this is a thread from 2017, I hope the wire has been removed already.
Buut.. The question was about the wire that holds a repair together, not a shaping wire.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

Considering this is a thread from 2017, I hope the wire has been removed already.
Buut.. The question was about the wire that holds a repair together, not a shaping wire.

Oh yeah! Wire has been gone a bit over 2 years.
Healed nicely and strong.
Forgot the issue the post concerned.

 

[Shibui]

Just need to remember that a break will always be weaker than the surrounding wood. Even when it has healed and you've long forgotten it was ever broken it will be weaker. Best to avoid trying to bend there from now on.