How low can you go!!

[BuckeyeOne]

I have a generic acer p. in the landscape that I've identified as a air layer, trunk chop because it needs relocated.

How low of a trunk chop can I expect it to throw new shoots?

It is a 12-15 year old tree. Approximately 12' tall with a 4-5" trunk.

Try to post pictures in the AM after the rains stop. (4.5"+ already this month!!)

 

[TN_Jim]

I have a generic acer p. in the landscape that I've identified as a air layer, trunk chop because it needs relocated.

How low of a trunk chop can I expect it to throw new shoots?

It is a 12-15 year old tree. Approximately 12' tall with a 4-5" trunk.

Try to post pictures in the AM after the rains stop. (4.5"+ already this month!!)

Why generic?
It was an airlayer and presently could benifit from a chop next year during dormancy......or you want to relocate it now?
Relocate and chop are perhaps two very different things considering potential mortality, even with your location in mind.
More history of the tree, why, and where, seem needed to find appropriate solutions.

 

[BuckeyeOne]

I may not have been clear as to the origins of the tree. It is a landscape specimen that was planted, not air layered.
I propose to air layer now and trunk chop next year as its current location is undergoing a reconfiguration. It will be moved to a grow box once re-established after the chop.
There are currently no branches from the roots until about 18" and I would like to chop lower than that first branch.
I was not sure if I don't leave any foliage, will it sprout new shoots?

 

[TomB]

It will only sprout from sites where there may have been buds or branches in the past. You can identify these areas as there will be evidence of a 'ring' around the tree where the node was. It won't sprout from smooth wood, or from the cut like say an elm would. It's also not guaranteed to work - you'll have better luck if the tree is really strong. If you air layer the top off, then it won't be, because there won't have been any foliage feeding the roots. Having said that, if there are potential bud sites, then you might find they throw out shoots while you are layering it.
A safer method might be to grow out a long whip or two, and bend them down to thread graft into the bare section. Then you won't need to worry about it budding.

 

[Shibui]

If the trunk is older the nodes and 'rings' will probably have disappeared but buds are still possible after a chop.
One problem with large, low chops on JM is the tendency to die back. Roots that are no longer supplying to branches above can die which can then cause a section of the trunk above to also die. Much safer to reduce the trunk to a branch and hope for buds to grow. Grafting is probably the only option if budding fails. Final reduction after any new shoots are growing well which could take a couple of years.
You could dig and transfer the stump and living branch to a box and continue development in the grow box.

It is likely that the main surface roots will be few but thick. Maple roots are very hard so the tree is likely to be much harder to dig than anticipated.

 

[BuckeyeOne]

All. Thanks for the input and advice.
After considering the low potential for the tree to bud lower than the first branch, I will chop above the that branch and place in a grow box to see what develops.
A few air layers will be performed prior to the chop for practice purposes and additional trees for the collection.