How to get rid of green-algae developing on tops of perlite substrate?

SU2

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I've been increasingly substituting perlite for DE granules in my substrates and am running into issues with it developing a green algae/slime-mold from being too-moist, it's like once it gets there I just can't get rid of it even if I almost starve/dehydrate the plant, the stuff just won't go away once it's got the tiniest hold (this is surely, at least in-part, a result of a poor container/substrate approach, in that I've got too-many specimen that were cuttings I just stuck in perlite and their containers are so small that they dry-out incredibly quickly, the required waterings - so far as I can judge - cause this, even if I trend towards under-watering)

I've contemplated using hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle, kind of going by someone here's idea, but cannot find the post where they listed what % they use as their general-purpose cleaner! Any suggestions would be appreciated!! (aside from 're-containerize them', as I'm already on that!)

[edit- not that it matters much, but I swear that perlite fosters this algae far worse than DE ever did, I have enough trees in all-DE substrates that don't have anywhere near the algae problems of the containers w/ perlite! Weird..]
 

0soyoung

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I've contemplated using hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle, kind of going by someone here's idea, but cannot find the post where they listed what % they use as their general-purpose cleaner!
I think it is @0soyoung that talks about it a lot
3% H2O2 that you can get at any grocery/pharmacy.

2 tablespoons of this peroxide in a quart of water.

Good antiseptic --> broad spectrum fungicide + bacteriacide. Safe to use on all common plants.


As for green algae on the soil surface, I don't know it to be a problem. It forms on the surface of my Turface during the winter here (very rainy). It either forms a foundation for moss or it makes a dry crust that does not interfere with drainage/aeration. Further, I don't know that your 'green algae' is my "green algae". And lastly, I don't know what effect, if any, this peroxide solution has on it.
 
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cbroad

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I also like that it can get oxygen into rootbound or solid soil cores...
 

ThirdCoastBorn

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I'm curious if/how the OP solved this issue, as I'm experiencing something similar with about 1/3 of my seedlings. I first thought the green discoloration was just related to the toxic green color of the Miracle-Gro Quick Start fertilizer that I use, but realize this probably isn't the case, otherwise ALL my seedlings would be affected similarly. The substrate is 4:4:1 bark, perlite, peat and gets watered around every 24 hours; the Rootmaker's (photo 2) are in a tent with low-power active ventilation (4" inline) and the white trays are already in the process of being hardened off.

I was already planning to use hydrogen peroxide (diluted to 'normal' strength per the link above) today, and lo and behold, this thread got bumped! I have a lot of Crape seedlings, so feel comfortable (potentially) risking them by doing this, but am curious what causes the problem in the first place. I don't think that I'm over-watering and that airflow is sufficient, but maybe this proves otherwise?
 

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bwaynef

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There's a more palatable version for retail on amazon called bio-safe systems disease control. (There's also a mold and mildew control with the same active ingredients & percentages.) Its made by the same company that sells Zerotol (which has the same ingredients but at different percentages). I've only ever used Zerotol ...because I didn't find the other first.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Perlite is made out of silicium, and it refracts light in a certain way.
This allows moss, algae and even cyanobacteria to thrive. Since they use very little nutrients, and break down into organic food for the microbiome, I see no reason to get rid of algae. Unless they're blocking water or turning your soil anaerobic.
 

BrianBay9

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Quick spray with vinegar does the trick for me.
 

Underdog

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When it gets too thick, it curls up when dry and easily peeled off the surface.
 
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