How to propagate flowering deciduous trees at the wrong time of year..?

FiggieSmalls

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Hello everyone,

I got some cuttings in mid-late summer for azalea and crabapple, stuck them in pots of soil and lots of perlite, and placed on a heat mat etc and have just been watering them regularly. Kind of like "we'll see what happens," right? Now I'm looking for suggestions about what to do with them over the winter.

Some cuttings have shown subtle signs of life at some time, but not much lately... e.g., the crabapples eventually grew some little flowers for a time, and it now seems like that is done. I was hoping to get maybe some branches out of them before winter, but haven't been so fortunate.

Now, it seems like winter has officially arrived in St. Louis finally and it's going from this stretch of 60-70 degree days suddenly to high-20s consistently for at the next couple weeks (according to forecasts of course...).

Considering the signs of life but lack of measurable progress in my clones, would it make sense to try to let them go dormant at this point? Or do they need to grow a little strong before they can survive cold?
 

BrightsideB

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If they’ve grown they probably have roots. I notice that with my junipers and maple cuttings. I keep 30 to 40 in one container and I know once new foliage emerges they have roots. But protecting them isn’t a bad idea from prolonged freezes. It’s good to pinch the buds I hear and not allow them to flower because it uses precious energy the cutting needs. I believe some species of perennials or trees actually flower before they die. It doesn’t hurt to check to see roots. If their aren’t any you can just stick them back in. I usually use a chopstick to break soil up before lifting in case there are small roots. Like stab it in next to the cutting and lift. You can check for a callus as well if there is one that is a good sign. I’ll check mine every so often and if I see small roots and a callus I will pot them up individually. Usually if your cuttings are live through the winter they will get roots early spring. It’s more rare but I’ve got them in winter before.
 

ShadyStump

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I believe some species of perennials or trees actually flower before they die.
I tried wild plum cuttings in fall/winter before, and they did this. My understanding is that any tree that tends to blossom before leafing out - prunus or malus for example - will try to blossom, but just burn out it's reserves with that and then die. These species are better done as softwood or smei-hardwood cuttings in late spring/summer because of that.
I've not tried before with those, but hardwood cuttings stored and calloused in the fridge are supposed to work. Only tried hardwood cuttings at all once or twice, and was unsuccessful.

As far as overwintering, I haven't yet myself, but I've been told that if there are roots you can winter in the cold, and they'll come back in spring like normal.
 

Shibui

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Let your cuttings go dormant. If they have roots they will leaf out in spring. Those that don't have roots may still survive and root through winter or next spring, fingers crossed.
They don't need special protection just because they are cuttings. Look after them as you would any potted plants of the same hardiness - that will obviously vary depending which growing zone you're in.
 

FiggieSmalls

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Thanks all!

The consensus seems to favor moving them outside and I was inclined to do that anyway so they'll hopefully spring to life at the right time of year.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I have often taken hardwood cuttings after leaf drop in autumn. Just stick them in peat/perlite blend. Leave them out in bright shade all winter. No protection from cold temperature. Cuttings will callus, then throw a few leaves in spring, them begin growing branches and more leaves after rooting in July or even August. Some cuttings callus only first summer, did not grow branches until second summer. I used a large enough flat that I did not disturb roots until second summer. Success with blueberry, Chaenomeles (flowering quince), Malus and a couple other odd things.

Blueberry was about 75% success rate, Chaenomeles about 90% success rate.
 
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