How to prune a Lysiloma latisiliquum for ramification

[Drjd]

Good evening everybody. I was hoping someone may have some insight for me. I am relatively new to bonsai but have spent countless hours (seriously weeks of diligent work) reading books, watching tutorials and so on. I recently purchased a large pre-bonsai Lysiloma latisiliquum (common name wild tamarind, or tropical mahogany). The tree is healthy and looks great, but when spring comes I need to work on ramification. I can not find any information online as to how to prune this type of tree. The nursery which sold the tree told me to said to use the same rules as a Brazilian rain tree and the tamarind (the true tamarinds). I uploaded photos so maybe someone can provide a specific example where to cut. Ultimately a lot of the lower branches are very long and leggy. I need to bring the branches back closer to the trunk. Everything I see on Brazilian rain tree tutorials shows a tree with plenty of ramification already so cutting the branch back to a node with leaves is easy. If I cut enough to bring the branches back I will leave the branch with no leaves and just a single long branch. This may be ok, but I wanted to consult with you all first!
I really appreciate any help!

 

[0soyoung]

It is pretty much universal that a branch ends with a bud at its tip. There is a bud at the base of each true leaf. Removing the bud at the tip tends to release (at least) the next closest bud --> getting more than one axillary bud (the buds at the base of the true leaf) released will give you two shoots coming from your original one = ramification. Each of those new shoots grows from an apical meristem at their individual tips. Rinse and repeat to get one --> two --> four --> 16 --> etc. 2^n. Of course, life is not so simple. One doesn't always get 2 from one.

Any unreleased bud has the potential to be released for some, species-dependent number of seasons, even if it is not visible. Removing the branch above it is generally how one gets a latent bud released --> simply cut just above the node, which is generally identified by a fairly permanent 'leaf scar' feature where leaf petioles of old connected to the stem. Across most angiosperm species, pruning right after flowering will be most successful.

So look closely and identify buds and nodes on a branch. There is one at the end (which may be hidden as an apparent axillary bud) and ones at the bases of the true leaf, where the petiole joins the stem. You can simply cut back a branch to just above where a leaf petiole joins the stem. Wait and see what happens. You could do something similar to another branch, but maybe cut back closer to the trunk. Wait and see what happens. Each will do whatever they do, pretty much independent of the others. After you've done this, you'll have an idea of how your tree responds and will have answered your question for yourself.

The last concern is maintaining the vitality of the tree. Letting new growth extend, harden, and be photosynthetically productive for a time before pruning is best in this regard. But some species perform better by decapitating branches frequently in spring (i.e., when day-light periods are getting longer).


btw, your tree has compound leaves. Each true leaf is composed of many little leaflets. You should only find a bud where the common green vein (or petiole) joins to the woody stem. So, nothing much is going to happen if you remove individual leaflets.


Apply what you've learned from reading and watching just to 'cut to the chase', so to speak. Do it systematically and you can learn a lot in a short amount of time.

 

[Drjd]

That is an awesome response. Very detailed! Thank you so much!

 

[Drjd]

It is pretty much universal that a branch ends with a bud at its tip. There is a bud at the base of each true leaf. Removing the bud at the tip tends to release (at least) the next closest bud --> getting more than one axillary bud (the buds at the base of the true leaf) released will give you two shoots coming from your original one = ramification. Each of those new shoots grows from an apical meristem at their individual tips. Rinse and repeat to get one --> two --> four --> 16 --> etc. 2^n. Of course, life is not so simple. One doesn't always get 2 from one.

Any unreleased bud has the potential to be released for some, species-dependent number of seasons, even if it is not visible. Removing the branch above it is generally how one gets a latent bud released --> simply cut just above the node, which is generally identified by a fairly permanent 'leaf scar' feature where leaf petioles of old connected to the stem. Across most angiosperm species, pruning right after flowering will be most successful.

So look closely and identify buds and nodes on a branch. There is one at the end (which may be hidden as an apparent axillary bud) and ones at the bases of the true leaf, where the petiole joins the stem. You can simply cut back a branch to just above where a leaf petiole joins the stem. Wait and see what happens. You could do something similar to another branch, but maybe cut back closer to the trunk. Wait and see what happens. Each will do whatever they do, pretty much independent of the others. After you've done this, you'll have an idea of how your tree responds and will have answered your question for yourself.

The last concern is maintaining the vitality of the tree. Letting new growth extend, harden, and be photosynthetically productive for a time before pruning is best in this regard. But some species perform better by decapitating branches frequently in spring (i.e., when day-light periods are getting longer).


btw, your tree has compound leaves. Each true leaf is composed of many little leaflets. You should only find a bud where the common green vein (or petiole) joins to the woody stem. So, nothing much is going to happen if you remove individual leaflets.


Apply what you've learned from reading and watching just to 'cut to the chase', so to speak. Do it systematically and you can learn a lot in a short amount of time.

Thank you for the awesome response I appreciate the time it took to respond with such detail. I will keep your advice close throughout my practice to refer to. Thank you so much!

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Generally, similar legume family trees can be used for suggestions around styling and pruning. Brazilian Rain Tree, culinary Tamarind, acacia, locust, genus Robinia all can be models.

 

[sorce]

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce