How to remove old needles on juniper?

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,053
Reaction score
27,392
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
So.. I am pushing myself again after being told off for not keeping my trees in the best state they can be. Thinned the foliage on two junipers, and started removing alld needles. What an ff-ing job. Anybody have any tips on how to do this efficiently? I would rather wire & shape then spend the rest of the week pulling individual needles..

dunnen.jpgdunnen2.jpg
 

Lazylightningny

Masterpiece
Messages
2,257
Reaction score
2,107
Location
Downstate New York, Zone 6b
USDA Zone
6b
I use tweezers. If they are still a little green, but mostly dead, I cut them with small scissors to avoid tearing the bark and opening the plant up to infection. It takes hours to do, but well worth it. The plant looks a lot cleaner afterward.
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,053
Reaction score
27,392
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
What kind of juniper is it?
The dark green one, I am not sure. I think it is San Jose, as this is the only type that mixes scale and needle as a common feature. I cannot get this to grow scale foliage on all branches (Which is actually why I let it go for a long period of time).
The other is an Ittoigawa, originally Japan import some 10 years ago. I did the first styling a few years ago and the scale is a result of that styling. Is now backbudding nicely, and in spring it should be ready to go into a bonsai container.
 

defra

Masterpiece
Messages
3,237
Reaction score
5,992
Location
The netherlands Zone 8b
USDA Zone
8b
I pull the needles with a tweezer its not my favorite thing to do either but its something you can always do and allows you to fiddle with a tree whenever bored :)
 

Lazylightningny

Masterpiece
Messages
2,257
Reaction score
2,107
Location
Downstate New York, Zone 6b
USDA Zone
6b
I actually enjoy pulling needles. It's mindless immediate gratification, and like @defra said, you can do it any time you want. No need to do everything at once.
Besides cleaning up the look of the tree, dead needles, especially older dead needles, harbor fungi. Pulling them allows branchlets to dry properly.
 

BE.REAL

Mame
Messages
170
Reaction score
126
Location
Boston
USDA Zone
6a
I too have begun pulling needles on junipers, and agree it does help make it look neater. And esp. good for keeping pests away as previously mentioned, no where to hide.

Does it also help in backbudding, as I have been noticing.
also, should I be doing it on ones that are early development, still growing out, that I have in grow boxes or in field ground?

Junipers and Yews are my fav. But am partial to all Conifers. more recently hemlocks. Im a tree slut! haha
 

Wires_Guy_wires

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,462
Reaction score
10,735
Location
Netherlands
I found adverse effects in backbudding, since sometimes, you pull off pieces of the bark too where new buds are just forming. I'm thinking they like the protection until they've grown out a little.

Apart from that, I would like to give some attention to tools.
A good stainless steel, high quality bent tweezer will do the job perfectly. I say good and high quality because there's millions of shitty ones and maybe just 30 or so brands that offer true quality. If you're going to remove thousands of needles every year, you want the right tool; something not too heavy, not too light and something that you can lose in the backyard and find it months later with zero rust or oxidation. If you ever held a good tweezer, you'll feel it right away.
Bent tips allow you to pluck length-wise along the branch, and rip off 3-6 needles in one move.

Here's a picture of a shitty one, just as an example. It has zero ergonomics, it will oxidize/rust on the brushed metal and since it's usually spot-welded (or however that pressing of metals against each other is called) it will break within a year or so. Real crappy ones are sometimes soldered or glued and then covered in rubber. The shape is just.. You're going to get some blisters from this one and there will be a moment (or many) where you'll get stuck in the handle-parts. It will cost anything between 20 cents and 20 dollars. And at 20 cents, you're still being ripped off. Notice how the center of the handle is at the edge of the bend. Prolonged use will bend these tweezers so that they will be out of shape in no time.
TB1J.y5FVXXXXcCXXXXXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg


Here's an example of a quality one: ergonomic design, relatively heavy, coated to prevent rust, surgical grade (so can be heated to 300 degrees C and cooled without damaging for over 1000 times), spot welded as well but this one is coated afterwards ensuring for a better seal and better connection. I have used these for over 7 hours a day for a year now, my baby soft skin hasn't been damaged a single time. These usually go for 5 dollars and up (to around 50 or so). They last around 5-10 years with daily use. Also notice how the center of the mandibles is at the exact center of the handle.
31J78Fi8mfL.jpg


It's a small investment, but it really takes the pain out of the ass. Needle plucking should be something to look out to, instead of feeling like a chore. Having the right tool helps a lot.

Both Ebay and Amazon are full of shit quality tweezers and offer just a few good ones. It's really worth your while to look for the good ones.
 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,898
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
I only use bent tip tweezers for repotting.

For all other tasks requiring tweezers, I use straight tip tweezers.

Kandishin makes several good ones, with a choice of width and shape (roundness) of the tip. They are actually surgical “tissue forceps”, that they grind the tips down to various shapes.

For the needles of procubens and other junipers, one technique is to use your fingers to crush the needles against the stem, and use a gentle rolling action to break them off. Then just use the tweezers as a final clean up. This works best when the old brown needles are fully brown and dried up.

To be perfectly honest, I dislike procumbens, so I don’t have any! But I have done the aforementioned technique to trees at workshops and client trees with good success.
 

Music4cash

Yamadori
Messages
67
Reaction score
63
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7
Does removing old needles count towards the don't remove more than 1/3 of the needles rule?
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,976
Reaction score
7,825
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
I made the clever choice and followed Adair
Which ones did you get? My best pair is actually built into a rake and is carbon steel.
They've done super well over the years for precise grip, but losing grip.
Got a pair built into a potting spade like tool/spatula and the resistance is too great/fatiguing
and grip is poor.
 
Top Bottom