Yeah I was actually excited about this but now today after looking today it’s gonna be a more literati style that I’m not good at . Good trunk movement that I like but horrible branchingNormally, I would not have chosen this for bonsai, because I would need branches on the lower parts. The long straight trunks with no branches are indeed the problem.
You could "pray to the Backbudding Goddess", this would require repotting to a larger pot, with minimal root disturbance, set it out in FULL SUN, ample water and fertilizer, then let it grow. Sometime early next summer or summer 2024 after some significant growth, then prune EVERY branch leaving just a tuft of green. You need to keep green on any branch or sub-branch that you want to keep. If you remove all the green, branch will die. Leave more green on weaker or thinner branches that you want to keep and less green on robust branches. Jin rather than cut off branches you don't see a future use for.
An alternate approach is a bale or two of wire. You can wire in movement and compact size. Juniper branches will bend, even if it takes effort. The thicker branches will require bending in steps and stages. You won't be able to compact it all in one move.
But really, you were right, you did not see an obvious route, because it is already too leggy, for there to be an obvious route to bonsai. If you still have the receipt, take it back to the nursery for return or exchange.
This is what I would do. I think in a couple of years you would have a whole lot to work with.If it was mine, I would do a bit of cleaning up now (cut off weak, leggy branches & cut off branches that are going straight up or straight down from the branch they originate from) to thin the canopy a bit and let some light penetrate down into the interior in the hopes of stimulating some backbudding on those areas that are currently barren. I’d up-pot it in the spring and just let it grow for a season or two, fertilizing heavily, to build vigor. Then cut back hard (but keep some green on each branch) and hope for backbudding.
When is a good time to cut the bigger branches ?If it was mine, I would do a bit of cleaning up now (cut off weak, leggy branches & cut off branches that are going straight up or straight down from the branch they originate from) to thin the canopy a bit and let some light penetrate down into the interior in the hopes of stimulating some backbudding on those areas that are currently barren. I’d up-pot it in the spring and just let it grow for a season or two, fertilizing heavily, to build vigor. Then cut back hard (but keep some green on each branch) and hope for backbudding.
Well, Walter Pall says a good time to cut a branch is when you have a saw in your hands. My take is this. The more foliage you leave, the more energy a tree has. The more energy it has, the faster it can grow more foliage, which gives it more energy.......which lets it grow faster. To my way of thinking, pruning a tree always slows it down. It may make certain parts of the tree grow faster, but it slows the tree down overall. Depending on the branch, if you cut it now or cut it 2 years from now may not make much difference to the design, but may make a big difference in how fast you get to the finished design.When is a good time to cut the bigger branches ?
I prefer to cut junipers when they’re actively growing because the bark is easily separated from the sapwood at that time, which makes creating a jin from the leftover stub really easy. So, spring or summer is my preferred time to cut them.When is a good time to cut the bigger branches ?
Shortening strongly growing branches in July or August (summer) can induce backbudding.When is a good time to cut the bigger branches ?