Huge ficus leaves...

Bonsaiboy

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I understand that a lot of people do not like ginseng ficus. I've decided to go more of a banyan style for mine and its coming along great with tons of aerial roots sprouting. Now my issue is that the leaves are gigantic and I need to make them smaller, how would one go about doing this? Here's photos. image.jpgimage.jpg
 

thams

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Leaf reduction is usually done through defoliation. This is usually one of the last steps in the tree's development though. There's tons of info on the internet about how and when to defoliate - especially for Ficus specifically.

Also, typically the more leaves the plant has the easier they are to reduce. This isn't always the case for certain species though. Generally speaking, the more leaf surface area a tree has, the smaller the leaves can become. I remember watching a youtube video about it. I'll try to find it and post it.

I wouldn't defoliate your tree until you're happy with the branch thickness. Defoliating a tree is stressful, so it will be slower to develop if it's devoting its energy stores to producing new leaves.
 

Redwood Ryan

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If his is a ginseng, which it doesn't appear to be, it's not your typical looking one.
 

mat

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Sorry. I phrased that as a question, when really I should have said "I don't think Adam's Ficus is a 'ginseng'."
 

thams

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Sorry. I phrased that as a question, when really I should have said "I don't think Adam's Ficus is a 'ginseng'."

I won't make any claims about whether his tree is actually a ginseng, only that he says it is. I don't know him personally, but he seems like a straight up guy, so I'm not sure he would lie about it. Good read either way though.
 

jk_lewis

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IF that tree is a ginseng ficus (and you recognize that the name is a artificial name of the houseplant folks and can be applied to several species of ficus that are capable of developing those obscenely bulbous roots) he didn't start out with the elephantiasis roots that are commonly sold as ginseng ficus in the trade.

That's actually a half-way decent tree.

As for large leaves, as has been said you normally don't worry about that until well into the training of the tree. But outside in FULL sun all day will help make them start out smaller.
 

thams

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Yep, not sure what it looked like before the aerial root/branch development, but it is a pretty nice tree. My real point is that you should develop material in which YOU see potential. The ginseng ficus may not win any shows, but just maybe you can turn nothing into something. Lord knows I've seen plenty of people reduce something into nothing...
 

mat

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Here is one of the posts where he talks about ginseng ficus -- some pretty cool designs. At the bottom of the post he says that the specimen ficus is also a ginseng with about 15 years added to its development. They do take time to develop, but it can be done.

http://adamaskwhy.wordpress.com/2013/04/13/ginseng-and-s-curve-ficus-rogues-gallery/

I stand corrected. If he says it is (was) a ginseng, it probably is (was). As JKL says though, ginseng isn't a species or even a cultivar of Ficus - just an adjective used to describe the way some look or have been developed.

For what it's worth, I do know Adam personally, and he is a straight up guy. I recommend subscribing to and reading all the past posts of his blog, especially if you keep tropical trees. I've seen that tree in person, and it is quite nice. Should be show ready in a few years.
I wonder if he has to trim big tuber roots off of it each year? I'll ask him next time I'm over there.
 

thams

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I stand corrected. If he says it is (was) a ginseng, it probably is (was). As JKL says though, ginseng isn't a species or even a cultivar of Ficus - just an adjective used to describe the way some look or have been developed.

For what it's worth, I do know Adam personally, and he is a straight up guy. I recommend subscribing to and reading all the past posts of his blog, especially if you keep tropical trees. I've seen that tree in person, and it is quite nice. Should be show ready in a few years.
I wonder if he has to trim big tuber roots off of it each year? I'll ask him next time I'm over there.

Right, I always figured it was a type of Microcarpa, but I've never been too sure. Adam's posts are awesome - the right amount of education, humor, and imagination. Plus he typically works on material that the average person has access to (both physically and monetarily). If I lived closer I would visit his nursery. I've spotted a few really nice willow leafs that I would snatch up in a heartbeat.
 

k2bonsai

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You need to think of leaf reduction as a series of ratios and balances.

Firstly your tree has a balance between the root growth and the canaopy growth. When trees are growing fast and from a young age you will see a trunk that will shoot up prior to it even throwing its first branch, then when it does throw some branches these will be few and will themselves want to shoot upwards. Leaves tend to be fewer but largish. The root system at this stage is following the same pattern.

As your trees roots find some happy boundaries and then start the process of producing finer feeder roots back towards the base, then the canopy will start displaying the same characteristics of branching etc. This process takes time, however as clever little bonsai people we are we can alter and fudge this natural process with tecniques such as potting into smaller pots, trimming roots, cutting back tunks or branches to induce ramification etc.

When a trees root system is constrained, the canopy will carry by default the amount of leaves it needs to live in harmony with the root system, no more, no less. Lets say your tree has only 2 branches, each with 2 large leaves. If you cut this back to now allow each branch to produce 2 more branches, you now have 4 branches with 8 leaves. Going from 4 leaves to 8, the leaves need only be half the size to support the root system. This is perfect for the ramification we need but applies to bonsai that are in their finished pot as this process slows down growth rates of the tree. If you want fast growth rates to produce a fat trunk, then you need roots that are not constrained, which means roots that can grow can support more or larger leaves, hence why you can't 'grow' a tree and nicely reduce the leaves a tree at the same time!

In essence, if you are growing your trunk and branches still, then don't worry about leaf size! The more branches you start putting on and then the more you start to manipulate these the leaf size will naturally start coming down.
 
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Redwood Ryan

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Shoot, you think your Ficus has big leaves :rolleyes:
008.jpg
 

Bonsaiboy

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You need to think of leaf reduction as a series of ratios and balances.

Firstly your tree has a balance between the root growth and the canaopy growth. When trees are growing fast and from a young age you will see a trunk that will shoot up prior to it even throwing its first branch, then when it does throw some branches these will be few and will themselves want to shoot upwards. Leaves tend to be fewer but largish. The root system at this stage is following the same pattern.

As your trees roots find some happy boundaries and then start the process of producing finer feeder roots back towards the base, then the canopy will start displaying the same characteristics of branching etc. This process takes time, however as clever little bonsai people we are we can alter and fudge this natural process with tecniques such as potting into smaller pots, trimming roots, cutting back tunks or branches to induce ramification etc.

When a trees root system is constrained, the canopy will carry by default the amount of leaves it needs to live in harmony with the root system, no more, no less. Lets say your tree has only 2 branches, each with 2 large leaves. If you cut this back to now allow each branch to produce 2 more branches, you now have 4 branches with 8 leaves. Going from 4 leaves to 8, the leaves need only be half the size to support the root system. This is perfect for the ramification we need but applies to bonsai that are in their finished pot as this process slows down growth rates of the tree. If you want fast growth rates to produce a fat trunk, then you need roots that are not constrained, which means roots that can grow can support more or larger leaves, hence why you can't 'grow' a tree and nicely reduce the leaves a tree at the same time!

In essence, if you are growing your trunk and branches still, then don't worry about leaf size! The more branches you start putting on and then the more you start to manipulate these the leaf size will naturally start coming down.
Thanks, really well said and informative.
 

Redwood Ryan

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F. elasitca?

Not elastica, elastica has more rounded, waxy leaves with a purplish tinge. This is either a Moreton Bay or rubiginosa. Haven't quite figured it out yet.
 
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