andrewiles
Shohin
I know ground layering and the tourniquet method have been discussed in numerous threads, but I haven't found any examples of what I've ended up trying. Curious what others think.
My understanding:
An appealing solution to me is to apply the tourniquet via a sheet of stiff aluminum with a center hole a few mm narrower than the trunk. A cut is made from one edge to the center hole, and as long as the sheet is flexible enough to be bent open while wrapping around the trunk, the net effect is a tight constriction once it's in place. By making the center hole a bit narrower than the trunk the sharp ends of the sheet cut into the bark and immediately begin constricting some, but not all, nutrient flow. Some rooting hormone is added at this point of contact.
I think this is likely to:
Example from my vine maple:
My understanding:
- Tourniquet method is slower than any layering that involves cutting the cambium, since the tree has to grow into the tourniquet to cut off nutrient flow.
- This method is safer, esp. for a ground layer with no leaves below, because the roots have no sudden loss of energy from the leaves and thus the tree has more time to grow out new roots at the layer.
An appealing solution to me is to apply the tourniquet via a sheet of stiff aluminum with a center hole a few mm narrower than the trunk. A cut is made from one edge to the center hole, and as long as the sheet is flexible enough to be bent open while wrapping around the trunk, the net effect is a tight constriction once it's in place. By making the center hole a bit narrower than the trunk the sharp ends of the sheet cut into the bark and immediately begin constricting some, but not all, nutrient flow. Some rooting hormone is added at this point of contact.
I think this is likely to:
- Still be a bit safer than fully cutting the cambium
- Be faster than just using a wire without cuts
- Provide a flat base for the root growth once the top is separated.
Example from my vine maple: