For all those intermediate and novice growers reading this discussion. De-candling, De-shooting or total bud removal as in the above link for Scotts and Mugo pines, these techniques are a medium to major stress for the tree. They are NOT performed on weak trees. Never do these techniques ''automatically''. First, decide if the tree design would benefit, then decide whether the tree is healthy enough. Healthy means lots of buds or lots of big fat bushy shoots. Being healthy means the tree was not repotted within 12 months of the date you want to do the technique.
Stressing a tree that is not in good health, can put the tree in a death spiral of slow decline. If you push the tree too hard, you risk loosing it. At least with JBP, if you skip decandling a year or two, you can ''go back'' 2 or 3 years and get good bud response, if you did not pull all the old needles in the older internodes.
I made the error more than once of thinking my tree was healthy enough, and ended up loosing the tree. Dead trees are not the end goal. Big Fat Bushy foxtails of foliage is normal good health for a JBP, if you are not seeing that, your tree is not in good health. Improve your horticulture before decandling. If you are new to JBP you might confuse weak growth for healthy if you have never seen healthy growth in person. Books don't show enough ''before'' photos, and explain what the necessary vigor needed looks like very well.
Ok, caution warning over.
Mike Hagadorn's articles are great, he is a Student of Boon, and Boon's technique is good in these matters.