I have a ton of nursery stock overwintering right now; what next?

[Shibui]

How do *you* decide when to move from field or peat soil to bonsai soil? Do you still use bonsai mixes (granular aggregate substrate) when you're moving into a large grow out pot or do you prefer "potting soil"? I can work out pros and cons for each but making the call of when  and why to use bonsai soil is still mysterious to me.

To make it simple I use the same mix for all trees - seedlings, developing trees and bonsai in pots. I figure if it is good for one it should be good for all.
My understanding is that open draining mix is better for shallow bonsai trays as the perched water table is lower. For deeper grow pots drainage is less critical so standard potting soil is OK but everything comes back to watering and general care. I have known people growing good bonsai for many years that used garden soil in the pots successfully because they had learned to match watering and care with the pots and the soil they were using. Maybe lost a lot of trees while working it out but it can be done.
Large particle fast draining soil is definitely easier to manage in shallow pots.
My criteria for change of soil (if you intend to use different soils at different stages of development) would then be at the change from larger grow pots to shallow bonsai pots.

 

[dbonsaiw]

How do *you* decide when to move from field or peat soil to bonsai soil?

I basically have everything in Bonsai Jack universal mix - 40% pumice, 40% calcined clay and 20% pine bark. I propagate cuttings in perlite covered in sphagnum moss, but then move them to bonsai soil before the end of summer. Everything from seedlings to trees in grow boxes are in the bonsai soil. The only real exception are the few trees I have in giant containers in which I mixed more organics just for filler, but only because it was a 15 gallon pot.

 

[August]

Thanks for the advice everyone! I feel like I know so much about bonsai horticultural practices and still so little about the year to year "flow" of things. Hopefully over the next few seasons I can join knowledge and experience together and not be twiddling my thumbs everytime I think about the changing of the seasons. I'm likely going to put as much into bonsai soil as I can manage before the repot window is over... I'm working with 8822 (dumb cheap) and about 2 cubic feet of pumice so I might as well jump ( - David Lee Roth) and learn a thing or two about repotting nursery stock in the process.

 

[dbonsaiw]

so I might as well jump ( - Sammy Hagar)

Whoa there - that's quintessential David Lee Roth.

 

[August]

Whoa there - that's quintessential David Lee Roth.

Lmao edited for posterity. I get a pass because I'm 24 years old

 

[Frozentreehugger]

One thing to consider if other than fast draining bonsai soil is used . Is heat . Water can store a tremendous amount of energy . That energy is in the form of heat . In the hottest season . Trees transpire and use more water . So there is a tendency to water heavily . But the nursery combination of black heat soaking container and moisture retentive compost . Can get you in trouble . Essentially the water can absorb a lot of heat and boils the roots . Another key advantage of coarse soil that is not considered by a lot of people .

 

[Mike Westervelt]

Sorry for late response, they air layer super easy.

 

[JackHammer]

2 cubic feet of pumice

Next level is getting a delivery of 2 cubic yards. You'll get there.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

I figure: Spring, to a collection of trees in training, means a decision for each and every one of those trees (to repot or not, and then: what to pot into).

I dont think you have to have a plan for each and every tree each and every spring. I typically determine what is getting repotted based on what I notice during summer and, especially, fall watering. I mark those trees and keep an eye for them when repot time comes near. But other trees I dont have any plans for until I see them active and growing. Some I just dont touch for lack of inspiration, waiting for growth, etc. Theres usually nothing wrong with NOT working a tree if its healthy. So just because you have a lot of trees in training, doesnt mean each one needs something decided upon, unless you consider "ignoring work" some sort of negative decision. I look over everything in fall and winter as I put them away for dormancy, but a lot of them I know just need to get fertilized and let grow.

 

[Underdog]

I'm working with 8822

I use this a lot too but sifting very well is key. You may loose half a bag but, as you said it's so cheap. Many other uses for the fines. I'm going to try to make muck w/my fines this year.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

I use this a lot too but sifting very well is key. You may loose half a bag but, as you said it's so cheap. Many other uses for the fines. I'm going to try to make muck w/my fines this year.

Let us know how the muck worked out I’m curious as I have thought about using it also

 

[Mike Westervelt]

Wow, my totally irrelevant response was to the wrong thread

 

[Carol 83]

Lmao edited for posterity. I get a pass because I'm 24 years old

Well Ok this once.....

 

[jerzyjerzy]

Next level is getting a delivery of 2 cubic yards. You'll get there.

I laughed so hard, I almost spilled my coffee
I ordered a ton of calcined clay and a cubic meter of perlite three years ago. I used 3/4 of it all already, and I am a total amateur.

Bonsai is an addiction