I need some Larch help

Silentrunning

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I bought a Larch last year with the intention of growing it out for a few years and then donating it to our club for their annual auction. I know nothing about Larch but figured growing it out wouldn’t require a lot of skill. The tree has exploded this spring and more than doubled in size. I want the tree to grow healthy and robust but I won’t do any styling. That will be up to the new owner. I am wondering, since the tree is getting really top heavy should I cut it back? How far? When? Any suggestions on how to make the tree more appealing over the next 2 years would be appreciated.
 
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Forsoothe!

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It will never be easier to wire than right now. Make wide, ugly loops with heavier wire which surrounds the soft twigs like springs that will channel the twig in the configuration you intend. They can be left on for much longer and stretched out as needed. Tip pinching is done when the extending growth is long enough for you to hold the base of the extending growth between the tips of your thumb and first finger and the growing end between the tips of your other thumb and first finger. Rotate and pull only the extending end and the extending end will break off. Look at the piece that broke off very close and you will see that it isn't just a cluster of needles growing out of a single base, but rather they are all growing along a stem that you have broken off. The green twig that is left will stop extending so the needles that are left will continue to grow but the stem they are growing from will not get longer. This is to say that the internodes between needles does not continue to widen the way it does if this action is not taken. If you look at the growth on this tree, now, you can can see that the longer the growth, the longer the internode. Using this process is what makes Larches compact. You can't make believable pads without this process.
 

leatherback

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The challenge you have is that the lower branches are VERY weak right now. To increase their strength you will have to prune the bottom. And.. How much sun is this getting?
Larch drops branches that are lower on the tree when they do not get direct sun.

I think that should be your focus for now.
I personally wire Larch in winter. The branches stay flexible for several years (in fact, 1 inch thick young branches can stil be bend quite well). So I would wait till winter with any shaping, and for now put a bit of a break on the top, to encourgae lower branches. Remember, larch do not easily backbud (One could say, they do not backbud). So you need to be carefull keeping lower branches happy.
 

Meh

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I would just let it grow freely to thicken the trunk. If you want to put movement in the lower trunk there is a spot where it already bends, you could exaggerate that movement.
 

eryk2kartman

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Ive couple of Larches myself, all pre-bonsai or maybe not even at that stage, some seedlings etc.
My experience is that they grow really quick and strong, the branches that i wired in winter, i had to remove the wire already as they thicken up so much.
All in pots.

Your tree looks a bit stretched out, probably need more direct sun light, if that was my tree i would pinch the most vigorus new growth, this would equalize the balance in the tree and activate dormant buds as well, the tree should bad bud or at least produce more growth in weaker branches.
I do this every 2nd year, so
Year 1 - pinch the new growth
Year 2 - repot in spring and let it grow for full season,

Im very happy with results so far, on Larch you can get 2 or 3 needle flushes in 1 season.
 

eryk2kartman

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really 6 or 7 ? hows that possible ? im not sarcastic, i want to know.
I have one European Larch growing in the ground as a garden tree - sort of Niwaki, i used same pinching technique and never got more than 3 flushes.
If you have some super secret, please share, i want to know what im doing wrong
 

eryk2kartman

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Good to know,
Maybe you are in better location for them ? In Ireland winters are quite mild so not sure if that is really helping larches, anyway, this year they growing free, so no pruning for me at all.
I will pay closer attention next year, or maybe i should repot them every 3rd year instead of 2nd ? that actually could bring more energy back.
but to be honest, after 2 years pot is full of roots so not sure if keeping them for 3rd year would help.

Sorry for off topic:)
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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My Larix laricina, only seemed to put out one flush of growth a year. American larch. It no longer resides in my collection.

I would only wire larch in late autumn or over the winter.

Larch need full sun - this is part of the reason I no longer have one. Yard got too shady as landscape trees grew.

Grow out, prune back, grow out, prune back. This is the only way to build a decent trunk, and it takes time.
 

Silentrunning

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My Larix laricina, only seemed to put out one flush of growth a year. American larch. It no longer resides in my collection.

I would only wire larch in late autumn or over the winter.

Larch need full sun - this is part of the reason I no longer have one. Yard got too shady as landscape trees grew.

Grow out, prune back, grow out, prune back. This is the only way to build a decent trunk, and it takes time.

Leo, I like the grow out and prune. Are you looking at a certain time frame between prunings or is it dependent on growth? Is there a time of the year you should NOT prune?
 

WNC Bonsai

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It will not survive down where you are. They need different growing conditions and will fade and die in the heat of the flatlands out there. We are barely able to grow them up here in the mountains because of the cool summer nights and colder winter temps. I hope you have a spare refer for it, good luck!
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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My trunks were thin, I was letting mine grow for 2 or 3 years, then prune, let grow 2 or 3 years then prune. It was not a once a year thing. Goal was trunks thicker than my thumb. Didn't get there. Haven't re-tried. Yet, but I will someday.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Larch definitely need cold winters, I don't know your area. A refrigerator needs to be set for 35 F, most are set for 40 F, you might have trouble with people opening the door looking for snacks, too much time above 40 F. and dormancy will get messed up. Hard to keep moisture, air movement, humidity right in a refrigerator.

much easier to work with a species like bald cypress in a warm climate. Or try Pseudolarix - the golden larch, it comes from a zone 7 type climate in China.
 

Silentrunning

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Larch definitely need cold winters, I don't know your area. A refrigerator needs to be set for 35 F, most are set for 40 F, you might have trouble with people opening the door looking for snacks, too much time above 40 F. and dormancy will get messed up. Hard to keep moisture, air movement, humidity right in a refrigerator.

much easier to work with a species like bald cypress in a warm climate. Or try Pseudolarix - the golden larch, it comes from a zone 7 type climate in China.

I don’t worry too much about winters. My son lives in Lansing Michigan and I will probably take the tree up there at Thanksgiving. I can bury the pot in the ground and then mulch it.
 

WNC Bonsai

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I would be more worried about the summer heat, especially once it gets to where temps don’t drop that much at night. I avoid visiting my daughter in summer because it is so nasty out there in summer and she lives near Greenesboro.
 
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