Ilex crenata collecting question

[WNC Bonsai]

I have a large old Ilex crenata bush in the yard that is a good subject for converting to bonsai. It is old, possibly as much as 50 years and was planted in with some boxwoods as a foundation planting. A few years ago the wife had it chopped way back but never dug it out and now it has fully recovered to a 2’x3’ bush. I looked under the foliage the other day and there is an 8” dia trunk down there with a nice shape. The foliage is too dense to see what the interior branching is like. I am planning on lifting it before things start to pop this spring but I have questions.

1. I am thinking of first greatly reducing the branches before lifting as these things tend to backbud like crazy. Last time it was cut back it had regrown a small crown in a few months.

2. Once the branches are out of the way I will cut around it with a shovel and undercut it with a reciprocating saw to get through the large roots.

3. Root pruning should come next but here is where I need suggestions. Assuming it will have some pretty large roots after this long in the ground I know they will have to be greatly reduced before it will fit in a pot, but how much and how fast is the question. If you read some of the descriptions of collecting, they cut through the roots on all sides within a 6” radius and then sever the taproot.

Assuming there is a large enough root mass I figure on following that approach. I figure as long as I don’t reduce the overall root mass by more than 1/3-1/2 it should be fine and I can further reduce it in another year or so when it is time to transfer it to a training pot.

I guess the real question is whether to try and reduce it all when first collected or do the two step approach. I fear that doing it all at one time may be more than this old tree can take. However there are arguments for doing it all in one step since the crown will be greatly reduced then and be just reestablishing in a year. Any ideas?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

If your timing is good, you can reduce steps 1, 2 & 3 into a single one step process. If after you dig up the Ilex, you are able to protect it from freezing again, this should work.

Step one is not necessary, energy for Ilex is stored generalized, in the entire vascular system, so there is no particular advantage in cutting it back a second time while it is in the ground. If there are other shrubs it is competing with, cutting back without digging it up runs the risk of the other shrubs shading it out.

With trees like Ilex, which are known to root from cuttings and to air layer well, you don't need to keep much of the wild root system at all. If you cut back the long branches, you can get away with removing 90% of the root system when collecting the tree. You will be better off if you are aggressive with the root system the first time.

If I were collecting this tree, I would do it all in one day, then let the tree grow and recover with no further work for at least one, possibly 2 years.

Before I start, set up the training container you plan to use. From the description, I would guess something like an Anderson flat would be good, a 16 x 16 x 5 inch deep heavy plastic tray with a mesh bottom. It holds roughly the same amount of media as a 3 gallon size nursery can. Have on hand a deciduous bonsai mix, heavy in pumice and with at least 20 % or more composted pine bark. Ilex like a mildly acidic bonsai mix, any mix that works for azalea will work for Ilex. They are not as touchy as some azalea, but they do like an acidic mix. Be sure to put in place wires to anchor the tree into the pot. I use aluminum wire.

Chop the longest branches that are in the way and won't be used. Then dig up as you suggested, roughly 6 inches around the trunk. Cut the tap root. Then lift out of the ground. Now, set it on your work bench. Use your reciprocating saw to saw the bottom flat. You want to be able to set the trunk into the 5 inch deep flat and be able to bury the point where the roots flare from the trunk about 1 inch deep. This means you want a disc of roots no more than 2 or 3 inches in depth. You might end up removing 90% of the roots. Don't worry, just do it.

When done flattening out, sawing off the bottom of the root system. Pot it up, tie it down so the tree does not wiggle when you grab the trunk. Then prune off more of the branches. Eliminate structural issues if obvious, and get rid of any branches you are certain you won't use. Then set it on the bench in part shade, water well and wait for the buds to sprout in spring. Protect from frosts. Do not allow the root system to freeze after this operation. Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. It won't need water as often as an established active tree, so don't drown it, and do not dry it out.

If you time this operation to happen just before the Ilex would send out a flush of growth in spring, this ''all in one day'' should work out well. If you have a cool greenhouse, you can do this a lot earlier in spring, or for that matter in late autumn, if you can keep it frost free but cool all winter.

So this is how I would collect your Ilex.
Get your supplies together before you start.

Good luck.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Any good sources for Anderson flats?

 

[WNC Bonsai]

I checked with one supplier and they wanted $14 for 4 flats and $24 for shipping. Are there any sources for these east of the Mississippi?

 

[WNC Bonsai]

I got out this afternoon and chopped off enough of the branches to see what the structure looked like. Here are some photos. It obviously has been cut back hard on prior occasions leaving a big rotten spot at what was the upper end of the main trunk. Does it give it character or create a future issue with keeping the plant from rotting out completely? At any rate it is coming out and will go in a basket. The trunk is about 6” diameter. The photos show from L to R front center, rear, front right, front left.

 

[drew33998]

If your timing is good, you can reduce steps 1, 2 & 3 into a single one step process. If after you dig up the Ilex, you are able to protect it from freezing again, this should work.

Step one is not necessary, energy for Ilex is stored generalized, in the entire vascular system, so there is no particular advantage in cutting it back a second time while it is in the ground. If there are other shrubs it is competing with, cutting back without digging it up runs the risk of the other shrubs shading it out.

With trees like Ilex, which are known to root from cuttings and to air layer well, you don't need to keep much of the wild root system at all. If you cut back the long branches, you can get away with removing 90% of the root system when collecting the tree. You will be better off if you are aggressive with the root system the first time.

If I were collecting this tree, I would do it all in one day, then let the tree grow and recover with no further work for at least one, possibly 2 years.

Before I start, set up the training container you plan to use. From the description, I would guess something like an Anderson flat would be good, a 16 x 16 x 5 inch deep heavy plastic tray with a mesh bottom. It holds roughly the same amount of media as a 3 gallon size nursery can. Have on hand a deciduous bonsai mix, heavy in pumice and with at least 20 % or more composted pine bark. Ilex like a mildly acidic bonsai mix, any mix that works for azalea will work for Ilex. They are not as touchy as some azalea, but they do like an acidic mix. Be sure to put in place wires to anchor the tree into the pot. I use aluminum wire.

Chop the longest branches that are in the way and won't be used. Then dig up as you suggested, roughly 6 inches around the trunk. Cut the tap root. Then lift out of the ground. Now, set it on your work bench. Use your reciprocating saw to saw the bottom flat. You want to be able to set the trunk into the 5 inch deep flat and be able to bury the point where the roots flare from the trunk about 1 inch deep. This means you want a disc of roots no more than 2 or 3 inches in depth. You might end up removing 90% of the roots. Don't worry, just do it.

When done flattening out, sawing off the bottom of the root system. Pot it up, tie it down so the tree does not wiggle when you grab the trunk. Then prune off more of the branches. Eliminate structural issues if obvious, and get rid of any branches you are certain you won't use. Then set it on the bench in part shade, water well and wait for the buds to sprout in spring. Protect from frosts. Do not allow the root system to freeze after this operation. Keep the potting mix moist, but not soggy. It won't need water as often as an established active tree, so don't drown it, and do not dry it out.

If you time this operation to happen just before the Ilex would send out a flush of growth in spring, this ''all in one day'' should work out well. If you have a cool greenhouse, you can do this a lot earlier in spring, or for that matter in late autumn, if you can keep it frost free but cool all winter.

So this is how I would collect your Ilex.
Get your supplies together before you start.

Good luck.

I got three like this. Dont be suprised if the roots are fused into a solid mass of wood. All three of mine were. Only one was worth keeping. Adam lavigne says do not work them until they start to push red tips. Also they are basally dominant so nurture the top as much as possible. I had no choice as the foliage on mine were 5 feet away. Good luck im 33 and i about fell over trying to get those out.