I'm gonna make brooms.

[cmeg1]

Zelkova#1 progress

Well these were on the ground as you can see in the post above.
Adair was right.You run the risk of knobby cut marks if you go for bulk on a tree this small.I am glad he chimed in.Thanks Adair.
So I decided to slow things down a bit and just proceed with equalizing branch thickness for the rest of the season like I did last year for a nice spring,leafless image of a small tree.
I was very happy with the results from this approach I did last season.
You can see the sacrifice branches all over the tree now.This is what all twelve of my zelkova's are getting for the remainder of the season.
It seems I really only gain a few nodes a year with this approach,but I think I prefer that.
What I like is that the trunk is a half inch thick now with two years on it.If I have a 1" trunk in two more years I will be satisfied.
I really do not want to build the primary's too fast.I want them to be equal thickness.
Here is pictures of this tree from years 1 and 2 on into current state for the growing season.It will be three years from seed next spring.

 

[Adair M]

I'm going to try to attach my zelkova I defoliated yesterday.

First step was to cut back every twig to two leaves.

Then cut every leaf off. I did leave some tiny ones on the weakest stems, in the interior.

This tree looks better with no leaves than fully leafed out.

 

[Adair M]

You made the remark that you wanted all the primary branches to be the same thickness. I've given this some thought...

Please consider the concept that they are all different thicknesses. This adds interest and makes the tree not so "cookie cutter".

Think about how nice group plantings are designed. Ideally, each tree is a different caliper, and different height than all the others. Broom style should be the same concept. Almost as if there is a "clump style" forest coming out from the top of a trunk.

Anyway, it looks like you are making progress.

One more thought, if you will not mind...

I'm not sure that using a colander is the best way to develop the nebari. It works for pines, but we don't repot pines as often as we do zelkova, and pines do not take to bare rooting the way zelkova does.

The way I would do it would be to treat the tree as it were an airlayer. Find a level of the roots you like, cut the tap root off flat. Screw the trunk down onto a board. (Screw up from underneath.) Splay the roots out on the board. Use nails to separate the roots out, and get them going the way you want. (You don't nail the roots to the board, but use the nails to position the roots.) Bury the whole thing down about 2 inches in bonsai soil. Next year, pull it up, root prune around the edge of the board, bury it again. Repeat every year.

On little trees like that, the board doesn't need to be more than 4 inches, square. (It could be a round piece.) So, cut back the roots to about 2 inches around each year. Fertilze with cakes, close to the trunk.

This process builds the killer "plate" nebari that REALLY raises the value of the trees.

Eventually, you may have to start using a larger board. Don't be tempted to bring the surface roots to the surface too soon. Burying them is what swells the roots.

 

[Jeremy]

This is a very interesting thread. Gives me ideas for the day I finally find myself a Zelkova.

 

[cmeg1]

You made the remark that you wanted all the primary branches to be the same thickness. I've given this some thought...

Please consider the concept that they are all different thicknesses. This adds interest and makes the tree not so "cookie cutter".

Think about how nice group plantings are designed. Ideally, each tree is a different caliper, and different height than all the others. Broom style should be the same concept. Almost as if there is a "clump style" forest coming out from the top of a trunk.

Anyway, it looks like you are making progress.

One more thought, if you will not mind...

I'm not sure that using a colander is the best way to develop the nebari. It works for pines, but we don't repot pines as often as we do zelkova, and pines do not take to bare rooting the way zelkova does.

The way I would do it would be to treat the tree as it were an airlayer. Find a level of the roots you like, cut the tap root off flat. Screw the trunk down onto a board. (Screw up from underneath.) Splay the roots out on the board. Use nails to separate the roots out, and get them going the way you want. (You don't nail the roots to the board, but use the nails to position the roots.) Bury the whole thing down about 2 inches in bonsai soil. Next year, pull it up, root prune around the edge of the board, bury it again. Repeat every year.

On little trees like that, the board doesn't need to be more than 4 inches, square. (It could be a round piece.) So, cut back the roots to about 2 inches around each year. Fertilze with cakes, close to the trunk.

This process builds the killer "plate" nebari that REALLY raises the value of the trees.

Eventually, you may have to start using a larger board. Don't be tempted to bring the surface roots to the surface too soon. Burying them is what swells the roots.

Thanks Adair.
Yes,the primary branch technique I am using really is just working for now.And that is an achievement for me because I am beginner.It really is just filling time for me so I can think about this.I understand what you are saying about the ramification taking different thickness.It is quite attractive.
Out of all the twelve trees I have,I was able to treat one of them as an air-layer by completely chopping the tap root..Zelkova#2 in the photo below.It had sufficient fibrous roots for me to confidently chop the runaway root completely off at repotting earlier this season.
It ,by far, had the most equalized growth as a result ( before I took cuttings from it).
On the one year old trees,I still had to leave a couple runaway roots because there was not quite enough fibrous roots on them earlier this spring.
So I thought the colanders would help create a more fibrous root-pad to prepare for the 'air layer' type root -pad treatment you describe by eliminating all the runaway/tap root that is left.
I did plant them on upside-down clay saucers in the colanders to facilitate a shallow, flat root-pad in about an 1.5" of soil.
They will all be like 'air-layers' next year when I re-pot.I will definately consider your advice about the board technique as I obviously feel it is important to plant them on something,for a flat root-pad.
I am really excited about my 1 year trees I have.The bole of the trees are quite long on them to fascilitate a taller tree.
Here is a photo of zelkova#2,a two year tree, that was chopped and treated like air-layer and also a photo of the colanders they are all planted in now.
Thanks again.

 

[Adair M]

cmeg,

Next year, you need to remove any downward growing roots. Keep only horizontal roots. Don't let the roots get long. Prune them back short.

You can bare root zelkova roots. If you do it at the right time. Just as the buds are swelling. On trees that size, you would want the roots to be no more than 3 inches long. To build nebari, you want lots and lots of feeder roots right at the base of the trunk. Place your cake fertilizer there. The plate style nebari isn't the roots merging so much as it is the base of the trunk swelling out.

When you bare root the trees, if there are sections of the trunk that don't have radial roots, you can cut a little scoop out and press in wet sphagnum moss. You don't need rooting hormone. Roots will form there.

When you potted the trees in the colanders, is the base of the tree on the inverted saucer, or up a bit? If up, then you will have lots of downward growing roots.

 

[cmeg1]

cmeg,

Next year, you need to remove any downward growing roots. Keep only horizontal roots. Don't let the roots get long. Prune them back short.

You can bare root zelkova roots. If you do it at the right time. Just as the buds are swelling. On trees that size, you would want the roots to be no more than 3 inches long. To build nebari, you want lots and lots of feeder roots right at the base of the trunk. Place your cake fertilizer there. The plate style nebari isn't the roots merging so much as it is the base of the trunk swelling out.

When you bare root the trees, if there are sections of the trunk that don't have radial roots, you can cut a little scoop out and press in wet sphagnum moss. You don't need rooting hormone. Roots will form there.

When you potted the trees in the colanders, is the base of the tree on the inverted saucer, or up a bit? If up, then you will have lots of downward growing roots.

Yes,I am totally not into downward growing roots.Here is a picture of a one year tree that was pretty much the way they all looked.
If I remember correctly ,I did put about a .25" of soil on the inverted clay saucer,then layed them on top of that.There was a couple runaway roots I was not happy about leaving,but I played it safe and just shortened them.The plan is to remove them next season.
They are in about 1.5" of soil.
Thanks for taking the time to give tips.Really appreciate it.

 

[cmeg1]

Here is a tree after leafing out.I was really impressed with the foliage.Growing really nicely.It is a one year tree(my second batch).I am really happy with that batch.Cannot wait to see how they develop next year.They are already as thick as my 2 year first batch of trees and have longer bole sections of trunk.
I may consider the cake fertilizer routine for next year.I always had my concerns with it not being effective on potting soil,but I am noticing this year it is very free draining and it is such a shallow root system anyway.
I do like the guano and blood meal liquid fert I am using with very watering.I think it is opening up the soil considerably.The moss has already saved the trees once from drying.Glad I have it.
Thanks for the nebari tip and cakes,Adair.

 

[Adair M]

Looking good!

 

[cmeg1]

Well,I took Adairs advice and put some cakes up close to the trunk on all the trees.
I used a mild granular that is supposed to promote root growth on seedlings and cuttings along with some flour and made them.
I also put a pile of earthworm castings under each cake to introduce a microbial flora to get things going.I'm going to make a tea from the castings tomorrow and sprinkle on the surface around the cakes to further introduce a microbial flora.
I read on Hagedorns blog that the cakes will kill the moss under them and adjacent to them,but the other areas of moss will live just fine.
It really is great that Adair has taken the time to give the advice because I am finding out this is standard practice on young developing trees to keep roots close to the interior for a better nebari in the future.
Thanks again,Adair.

 

[Adair M]

Cmeg1,

I'm happy to see someone doing broom style zelkova!

As you are finding out, they're much harder to do than it looks.

As with all things bonsai, it takes time. And patience.

 

[cmeg1]

Cuttings

Looks like all the softwood cuttings rooted.It took 24 days planted in pure peat with cloning gel in a propogater.I kept them under the cover of a grove of trees inside the propogater with no direct sun at all,but all day lite shade.
I decided to take cuttings because I had a bad batch of seed this season.
I have 18 total.Zelkova sure root easy.They look like tiny air-layers.If I would of waited another couple days I would have had 100% success rate.I did not plant about three of them because roots were not abundant enough.

 

[cmeg1]

Cuttings mid-summer update

The cuttings had a pretty good six weeks of growth.Some are quite vigorous.
With these,I am thinking clump style zelkova,hopefully.I will let grow to about 1" trunk status and cut back very low to the base and re-grow a new leader to heal the chop.Then repeat several times till' I have a clump full of buds.
I want small clumps.
First day of summer and today in pics below.A quarter for size reference.Out of order.

 

[cmeg1]

Hey,my brooms are turning into trees.

Or maybe I should of named this 'I'm gonna make informal brooms' thread.
Some are growing broom like.Others I have realized I should of started pinching earlier.
I do like the informal broom shapes that are unraveling in some of them though.
I am pinching all of them now.It is creating back-budding.They will be pruned to shape late this Autumn.
I believe I am going to move into defoliation next season with pinching too.Which is what I should of did this year on some of them instead of trying to let grow and attain girth.
Would of worked out much better on my two year old trees.Kinda' missed the ball with that swing this season with the two year trees..But,I am not giving up on them.
The trees below are 15 month olds.A couple informal looking ,and one that may broom itself.It is still very early,they may all end up formal.Time will tell.
A quarter for size reference.

 

[Neli]

Shame on you! You have done it now...You make me want to plant zelcova cuttings now...They are looking so good! I am going to plant some in spring...and you will be responsible for that...instead of reducing my trees I shall be adding again.

 

[sorce]

Excellent progression.

Thanks for keepimg it updated!

Sorce

 

[Adair M]

Cmeg1,

I don't think it's too late to defoliate. Boon had someone in his workshop defoliate a zelkova on Saturday.

Maybe try it on one or two of your trees.

I have defoliated my zelkova broom three times this summer. Each time, it responds with more and more back budding and tiny twigs!

 

[MACH5]

When you defoliate a zelkova do you take the entire leaf out all the way to the tiny stem? Also I assume we are talking about entire defoliation and not just partial (ie. only the exterior leaves)?

 

[GrimLore]

Cmeg1,

I don't think it's too late to defoliate. Boon had someone in his workshop defoliate a zelkova on Saturday.

Maybe try it on one or two of your trees.

I have defoliated my zelkova broom three times this summer. Each time, it responds with more and more back budding and tiny twigs!

Location, location, location - far different grow zones/seasons to consider

Grimmy

 

[cmeg1]

Shame on you! You have done it now...You make me want to plant zelcova cuttings now...They are looking so good! I am going to plant some in spring...and you will be responsible for that...instead of reducing my trees I shall be adding again.

Sorry,did not mean to spread it.I like them a lot.I found it is best to do something zelkova every season.
I may visit the local park this Spring cause' it is loaded with zelkova trees and there are thick mats of seedlings that they just destroy when they mulch.Enjoy,thanks!