Indoor Bonsai Stands

Skinnygoomba

Shohin
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As promised;

Sorry have not been chronicling the joinery or dimensioning of lumber. Everything so far has been dimensioned by hand from rough sawn lumber.

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Bottom support will be detailed with angled cuts.

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Mocked up.

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The top will have a batten along the length and will be attached with wedge tenons similar to that of the bench I made.

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Simple bridle joint.

The flitch in the background will be part of a taller stand.
 

Skinnygoomba

Shohin
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Angled cuts in the foot, I do these freehand with a crosscut backsaw.

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I cut the mitered edges freehand with a chisel, fallowed by smoothing the saw cut with a jack plane.

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Fine tuned the foot to make sure everything sits 90 and does not rock.

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Cut the top for through wedge tenons. So the outside edges of the top are wider than those of the bottom. A wedge tenon creates a dovetail and is an incredibly tight/strong joinery. A bit overboard for this, but I wanted one detail and this becomes a functional detail.

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Tenons are cut, marked for the bridle joint of the center batten.

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Bridle is cut

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Holes are drilled and tenons are cut for wedges. The holes create a bending point for the tenon.
 

Cadillactaste

Neagari Gal
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It's your design...but I would love to see that raw edge of wood used in your design. I love added character! But, if not...I totally understand it's your vision...not mine. ;)
 

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Skinnygoomba

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Thank you, the live edge will be used on the fallow up stand, which will also be slightly taller than this one.
 

Skinnygoomba

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Sawing the sides of the batten's bridle joint.

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Trimming out the waste with a router plane. This was then fitted into the upright.

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Knocked in gaboon ebony wedges, also cut by hand. I cut them by hand then fine tune them with a chisel before installing with a mallet. I glue as a glad filler but that is unnecessary for holding power.

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Result is a very tight fit, 90 degree to the base. The batten was drilled for brass screws which I installed to maintain straightness of the top over time.

The interlocking joinery of the top and base will maintain both of them from cupping over the coarse of many seasons and even if the top of the stand gets wet from the trees somehow.

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Top, finished.

I'll post the rest later after it dries.
 

Skinnygoomba

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Part two;

This is a mockup, there is more joinery headed under the top and the column must be cut to length. I have a low three legged base in the plans.

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Honduras rosewood set aside for the Dutchman joint.

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Skinnygoomba

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I was in the moment when building and attaching the feet, so I did not take pictures. They are attached with tapered sliding dovetails.
 

Alain

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You are definitively too good with wood work!
It would totally complex me if I haven't already reach the conclusion that I suck at it :D

Impressive work! :cool:
 

Skinnygoomba

Shohin
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Thanks guys!

I might build a couple more stands for outside in steel in the spring.
 

GrimLore

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
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WoW! I been away a good long while BUT I must comment on the last picture :cool: That butterfly inset to strengthen and/bind/repair a piece is a long lost art! I have a Cherry dining table and chairs dated 1896 and a Maple drop leaf set dated early 1900's. Underneath at least a couple of the chair seats from both sets they used that type of repair a LONG time ago. Great work and attention to detail - I admire that :)

Grimmy
 

JudyB

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Maybe you should look into building display tables as well as stands, your work looks really pro.
 

Cypress187

Masterpiece
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Oh my god, you are the carpenter king. If I try stuff like that it will break within a week.
 
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