Is it too late for my Beech?!

HoneyHornet

Shohin
Messages
383
Reaction score
310
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
During a super hot and dry few days I think I may have forgot to water my beech and it didn’t take long befor the leaves were browned n crisp , yet still fairly pliable.. the newer inner few leaves are still green and some interior leaves have green like at the very center vein but not looking good… will it remain alive without a head of greenery? Has unopened buds on every branch pretty much , hoping they hang tight
 

Attachments

  • 8837CE5B-4411-44FB-BD8A-7DFD0E8E1965.jpeg
    8837CE5B-4411-44FB-BD8A-7DFD0E8E1965.jpeg
    206.7 KB · Views: 58
  • 07915273-4CC4-4011-85B1-4FC850FC44C6.jpeg
    07915273-4CC4-4011-85B1-4FC850FC44C6.jpeg
    165.9 KB · Views: 51
  • FF21A10B-87FE-4999-A1BC-C6FB97251EF2.jpeg
    FF21A10B-87FE-4999-A1BC-C6FB97251EF2.jpeg
    188.3 KB · Views: 38
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    151.4 KB · Views: 52

Shogun610

Masterpiece
Messages
3,615
Reaction score
6,220
Location
Lehigh Valley Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
6B
I would water it now , and keep in more shade to let it recover, see what happens. Don’t want to soak it though cause that could lead to rot
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,182
Reaction score
22,180
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
If this has dried out completely (Which it looks like it has) I would water it by submerging it for a few minutes, until bubbles stop coming from the root mass. After that, pull it out of the water and set it the shade. Keep your fingers crossed and monitor watering for the next couple of weeks. You don't want it to stay wet, but evenly moist.
 

namnhi

Masterpiece
Messages
2,594
Reaction score
4,547
Location
Houston TX
USDA Zone
8b
The foliage is toast but the tree is still alive. Just watch out on the water... the tree should bounce back with new foliage.
 

BobbyLane

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,058
Reaction score
17,659
Location
London, England
Most deciduous trees can handle a bit of drought, I wouldnt worry too much. Trees are way more resilient than people give them credit for. my beeches are looking pretty battered too. regarding water im a little different though, ive had trees that have suffered drought or gotten too dry and lost most leaves, i water and fertilise quite heavy, the same as i would if id have defoliated and they come back in no time usually.
 

MGTT

Mame
Messages
147
Reaction score
243
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5
I had the same thing with an inground pre-bonsai beech last year. I watered it appropriately after I did the original damage (lack of watering for multiple days), and it came back very well this year.

Interestingly, I well watered a new beech in a training pot this year, and it looks like I over watered it.

It takes me some time to learn each tree’s nuances (which includes the pot/soil/ position the tree is in). It works ok if I learn before I kill it!
 

HoneyHornet

Shohin
Messages
383
Reaction score
310
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
Thanks for the input all! I have been thoroughly watering it because it is quite hot even still.. the pot has tons of drainage holes drilled so it drains pretty effectively, I have it in a shadier part of my deck by maybe I’ll put on other side of deck where it’s always shaded
 

HoneyHornet

Shohin
Messages
383
Reaction score
310
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
This tree was taller than me when I originally trunk chopped it and left it with like 3 buds, it’s come so far this years grow out and the chop is healing nicely I’d hate to of screwed it over, lost very few trees this year and I wish this to not be one lol
 

HoneyHornet

Shohin
Messages
383
Reaction score
310
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
Does anyone think this effects when I should do my prune? Since it’s health is comprised should it be allowed to sit as is until it’s pushing next spring? Or what are any thoughts on that because I did want to cut back a bit to work on the taper in branching- curious if this slows me down a season
 

BobbyLane

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,058
Reaction score
17,659
Location
London, England
Thanks for the input all! I have been thoroughly watering it because it is quite hot even still.. the pot has tons of drainage holes drilled so it drains pretty effectively, I have it in a shadier part of my deck by maybe I’ll put on other side of deck where it’s always shaded
yeh see id just leave it in full sun. if you defoliate a tree in summer, you dont stick it in shade and carry on watering, you leave it in full sun. its too late in the season to be messing about putting trees in shade, if you want to produce some leaves quickly it needs to be in full light and sun, new buds should begin to emerge in over a week, unless its had enough. in fact the shade might induce dormancy this late. just what id do
 

BobbyLane

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,058
Reaction score
17,659
Location
London, England
I picked up this hornbeam 3 weeks ago, you can see how dry it was and the state of the lower leaves, pretty crispy. Those leaves all fell off by themselves, i had to dunk it because normal watering wasnt soaking the rootball, but now water runs through freely and quickly, its extremely compacted but a few soaks usually gets things going again.

last pic is about 3 weeks after leaving it in full sun and feeding and watering almost daily in the heatwave, bit less now because its been cloudy all week
even wired it. I repeat, trees are very resilient, especially when working with a large rootball like this to power its development.

but granted, yours is a bit late in the season, it could take up to 3 weeks to produce new leaves and theres like 5 weeks of the growing season left? inducing an early dormancy in shade might be not a bad idea.
 

Attachments

  • 20220825_192336.jpg
    20220825_192336.jpg
    448.5 KB · Views: 31
  • 20220825_193116.jpg
    20220825_193116.jpg
    200.7 KB · Views: 41
Last edited:

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,182
Reaction score
22,180
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
yeh see id just leave it in full sun. if you defoliate a tree in summer, you dont stick it in shade and carry on watering, you leave it in full sun. its too late in the season to be messing about putting trees in shade, if you want to produce some leaves quickly it needs to be in full light and sun, new buds should begin to emerge in over a week, unless its had enough. in fact the shade might induce dormancy this late. just what id do
I wouldn't make this assumption. Full August sun here in the Middle Atlantic states is not full sun as in the U.K. We're still getting temperatures in the low to mid 90's F. Without leaves to transpire, a tree in full sun could have issues with root death.

Shade does not induce dormancy.
 

BobbyLane

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,058
Reaction score
17,659
Location
London, England
I wouldn't make this assumption. Full August sun here in the Middle Atlantic states is not full sun as in the U.K. We're still getting temperatures in the low to mid 90's F. Without leaves to transpire, a tree in full sun could have issues with root death.

Shade does not induce dormancy.
Its not much different from a tree losing its leaves through defoliation or an insect attack, i dont see how placing it in shade if you want it to recover and start budding out again will help. noone ever says to put a tree in shade after leaf pruning.

Shade does not induce dormancy.

I feel like the longer it takes to bud back out, and it will take longer in shade, the more chance there is of the tree not being inclined to produce anything else for the season, what is there like 5 weeks of growing left.
 
Last edited:

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,182
Reaction score
22,180
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
Its not much different from a tree losing its leaves through defoliation or an insect attack, i dont see how placing it in shade if you want it to recover and start budding out again will help. noone ever says to put a tree in shade after leaf pruning.

Shade does not induce dormancy.

I feel like the longer it takes to bud back out, and it will take longer in shade, the more chance there is of the tree not being inclined to produce anything else for the season, what is there like 5 weeks of growing left.
Because direct summertime sun, 90 + temps and sun heated soil can inhibit growth. Beech here (fagus grandifolia) are not the same as the beech species there. I've grown collected beech here as bonsai. They can have issues with direct sun all day when in full leaf I shaded mine in the afternoon during summer. And it is advised to shade defoliated trees in areas with strong sun. Sunscalded cambium can result. I've got bonsai nursery friends who do this as well as place towels over exposed portions of trunk on trees in full sun to prevent this.

 

BobbyLane

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,058
Reaction score
17,659
Location
London, England
Because direct summertime sun, 90 + temps and sun heated soil can inhibit growth. Beech here (fagus grandifolia) are not the same as the beech species there. I've grown collected beech here as bonsai. They can have issues with direct sun all day when in full leaf I shaded mine in the afternoon during summer. And it is advised to shade defoliated trees in areas with strong sun. Sunscalded cambium can result. I've got bonsai nursery friends who do this as well as place towels over exposed portions of trunk on trees in full sun to prevent this.


More similar than you think Rock, we often have the same issues. Along with hornbeams theyre very thirsty trees, which is why I use an organic mix for them. I get that they may need more protection in your climate. but they also grow native in your country so i would think theyve adapted somewhat. a little bit of leaf burn is sometimes inevitable though, one missed or late watering is all they need to get burnt.
The empire link you posted, states no specific aftercare after defoliation.
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,182
Reaction score
22,180
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
More similar than you think Rock, we often have the same issues. Along with hornbeams theyre very thirsty trees, which is why I use an organic mix for them. I get that they may need more protection in your climate. but they also grow native in your country so i would think theyve adapted somewhat. a little bit of leaf burn is sometimes inevitable though, one missed or late watering is all they need to get burnt.
The empire link you posted, states no specific aftercare after defoliation.
They grow native in the woods here, BUT they are primary forest trees. That means the understory shades the roots. They don't like hot roots--a bonsai pot in full sun here can have soil temperatures into the 110s. That shuts down root function, resulting in burned leaves. Fagus grandifolia also has thin bark. The cambium is not really all that well protected. Prolonged full sun exposure all day can kill it. I've Seen it happen.

Your average summer temps in the U.K. are what? in the high 70's low 80's? New Jersey is ten degrees hotter and at lower latitude which get stronger sun. Your latitude is the equivalent of Canada. New Jersey is about the same as Spain and Portugal. This is an interesting site. It superimposes European locations with similar climate locations in the U.S. and vice versa.


From the article:

"How to defoliate a Bonsai tree​

Cut the leaves using a twig shears, leaving the leaf-stalk intact. Using the right Bonsai tools, like a leaf cutter, will help significantly. Check the step by step guide below for detailed information.

A defoliated tree does not need specific aftercare. When only partially defoliating a tree (for example, only pruning the top part of the tree) you better place the tree in the shadow for about a month to protect the exposed interior leaves. Also, in areas with very strong sun you can shade your defoliated trees to protect the bark from getting sunburned.
 

penumbra

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
9,379
Reaction score
15,844
Location
Front Royal, VA
USDA Zone
6
I don't think with a beech you are going to get a flush of growth until next spring. And I personally would not be trying to push new growth on most trees this late in the season anyway. If you are lucky you will just get an early dormancy. Keep in mind that beech is a hardwood that requires root protection in winter.
 

Paradox

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
9,338
Reaction score
11,405
Location
Long Island, NY
USDA Zone
7a
I've also had beech get a little scalded in the heat. Mine seem to do better when I give them a spot with afternoon shade
 

HoneyHornet

Shohin
Messages
383
Reaction score
310
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
I’m not expecting a flush of growth just bleep the tree alive lol next year is another year
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,182
Reaction score
22,180
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
I’m not expecting a flush of growth just bleep the tree alive lol next year is another year
I bet the tree pushes new growth. I'd be surprised if it didn't. It lost it leaves to shock and sun. If all the leaves are gone, the tree will likely respond. That can be an issue going into the fall/winter. As you know American beech typically have only a single flush of new growth each spring. This tree, if it does push new leaves in the coming weeks, will have expended a lot of energy. I'd give it some extra protection this winter.
 
Top Bottom