Is it too late to repot trident?

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Shohin
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If you will go for trunk chop later, maybe you could first try to airlayer top section to have next tree with decent trunk instantly.
I thought about that, but wondered if it would slow down the primary goal of thickening the trunk. I don’t really want to slow it down any more.
 

minkes

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I thought about that, but wondered if it would slow down the primary goal of thickening the trunk. I don’t really want to slow it down any more.
I wrote it just as a tip, because many times I see people chop their trees without thinking about airlayering could provide them good material for next trees.
 

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Shohin
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Uncomfortable for you now but still plenty of roots to carry this one over.
I would usually cut off the down roots to get the same flat nebari but also chop all those horizontal roots back to 1 or 2 inches long and tridents still all survive and grow.
How long until I can fertilize?
 

SeanS

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I watch a bunch of your threads and I’ve seen how comfortable you are with removing roots on tridents. Honestly that was what gave me the courage to go as far as I did. I was worried about the really strong root getting even stronger and considered cutting it harder, but I decided not to. What do you think?
I would have cut the remaining roots back to at least halfway from the edge of the board. Those thin long roots are going to become thick long roots by the next time you repot and you’ll need to cut them back then to eventually fit the tree into a bonsai pot one day. Might as well cut them back now and get them to start dividing into multiple fine roots each time you repot.
 

Balbs

Shohin
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I would have cut the remaining roots back to at least halfway from the edge of the board. Those thin long roots are going to become thick long roots by the next time you repot and you’ll need to cut them back then to eventually fit the tree into a bonsai pot one day. Might as well cut them back now and get them to start dividing into multiple fine roots each time you repot.
Yeah, I regret not doing that.
 

Shibui

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On past experience I don't think that strong root will get out of hand. The others are growing strong and should keep up or exceed it if given the chance and you still have many years of grow and develop to take this tree from pole to bonsai. Still plenty of opportunity to work on the roots so I would not pull it out now.
By the look of all those young roots this tree had a hard root prune last year or the spring before. It already has a pretty good radial root system but I like to see even more ramification so I cut all those new roots around 1 or 2 cm from the older growth something like this:
trident 4a.png

I know the board thing is cool at the moment but in my experience, after a good root prune like you've done, there's no need for a board. Even planted straight in the ground you'd get very few down roots when the tree already has so many strong laterals. Any down roots that do develop can be removed at next transplant. Eventually the tree doesn't bother growing new down roots.

My potting mix contains fertiliser so I'm essentially fertilising from day 1. You'd need to be using something real strong to damage roots so I'm confident the wait x weeks is another myth. It works because there's always some nutrients in a potting soil and most trees can manage for a few weeks on stores anyway.
 

Balbs

Shohin
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By the look of all those young roots this tree had a hard root prune last year or the spring before.
I think it’s been three years, though I’d have to dig back in my photos, but you’re right I pruned it very hard at that point. That one really large root may have been all that was left, actually. Two seasons ago the tree grew really strongly and basically went from a pencil to what you see now. Last season I didn’t get the same growth, possibly because it was out of space in the flat. I’m thinking this will want to be repotted every two, not three, in this container. I don’t know how the board will effect that but it does take up a significant portion of the pit volume. I wonder if roots will grow beneath the board since it’s unlikely to get wet during watering.
 

Balbs

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So this thing started off strong and then in April we had a cold night, I put the tree in my greenhouse for protection and next day it was 95. I didn’t get to the tree in time and a lot of the buds and leaves scorched. The rest came out OK but have since been sort of droopy, like the pictures show. Should I do anything? Let it recover? Or is this something else unrelated? I do have one Japanese maple that has some similar stuff happening.
 

Dav4

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So this thing started off strong and then in April we had a cold night, I put the tree in my greenhouse for protection and next day it was 95. I didn’t get to the tree in time and a lot of the buds and leaves scorched. The rest came out OK but have since been sort of droopy, like the pictures show. Should I do anything? Let it recover? Or is this something else unrelated? I do have one Japanese maple that has some similar stuff happening.
Yeah, it’ll will be fine.
 

Balbs

Shohin
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Hi everyone! So this tree had a quiet season last year. Not a ton of new growth after the rough start. Would you all let it grow for a season unchecked or chop this year?
 

bonsaiwood

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Treat it like a marathon. Let it run and grow strong for another season (or two), fertilize well, protect from extreme heat. Then style when you feel it has put out sufficient new growth to work with.
Looking forward to see what you do with this TM.
 

Balbs

Shohin
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Pics please
Better late than never!

I brushed back the soil a bit to look at the base. There’s one area where it looks like a root died and the bark has since flaked off. That started last fall. I wonder if the board caused some standing water?


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