Is this technique from Naka still the best option?

[Ply]

Hi all, came across this technique a little while back when reading Naka John's Bonsai Technique 1 (see picture). I've been planning on applying it on some rooted ficus cuttings. Of course the legendary status of the book needs no introduction, but at the same time people state the book is outdated in certain areas. Wondering what the current consensus on this technique is?

 

[leatherback]

Hi all, came across this technique a little while back when reading Naka John's Bonsai Technique 1 (see picture). I've been planning on applying it on some rooted ficus cuttings. Of course the legendary status of the book needs no introduction, but at the same time people state the book is outdated in certain areas. Wondering what the current consensus on this technique is?

Besides just regular rootwork, I do not know of a better method. (There is of course the work by Ebihara that deserves attention.

A very good video from blue sky bonsai:

 

[Clicio]

@leatherback beat me up.
Yes, it is a good technique, and Blue Sky Bonsai uses it in his plants.

 

[sorce]

What is the technique meant for?

Sorce

 

[Ply]

What is the technique meant for?

Sorce

To create a good root spread and flat root base.

 

[penumbra]

This has worked well for me on a few oaks. I take off the tap root, seal the cut, and plant a a smooth rock.

 

[bwaynef]

I'd say the idea is golden, but the implementation has been improved. I've seen boards, tiles, plates, and upside-down bowls recommended and used. Seems each would give you a bit better control than rocks. But its the same idea.

 

[sorce]

To create a good root spread and flat root base.

Nice. The pic almost looks ROR ish!

I'm then, reading it as seedling specific, which makes the most sense to me, no need to fuss with anything larger or more complicated at that point, like Ebihara techniques that could prove more harmful than useful for a seedling.

Though, I could make an argument for it being to soon to remove a Taproot from a seedling, because it almost always creates a root spread that is too large for the design, and/or risks runaway roots that could spoil design entirely.

I've been trying to push this "Dragon Training ™".

Maple Stick-in-a-pot #1

This was the first tree I purchased - a stick-in-the-pot. This thread begins with what not to do with one's trees and, hopefully, will be a testament to the hardiness of the species. After reading a bit about developing bonsai and soil, I mixed up some potting soil, sand, decorative mulch and...

www.bonsainut.com

Push back comes from folks who believe baskets/colanders slow growth. This may be true in the first couple years, but when the rootmass is finally built, the top growth mimicks the fine root growth, which is ultimately much better for training, tight, close, super healthy, no extensive long nodes that is read as "vigour" in a regular pot.

It is APPROPRIATE growth that can remain in design.
It doesn't make sense to grow long internodes just to cut them off.
Everything cut off slows development no matter what, every prune wound a risk as a scent to pests.

Push back also comes when folks haven't observed basketed roots long enough to notice how "frozen" (in size) a nebari can get within a root pruning system. Frozen with really no noticeable lack of top growth, except for that from inappropriate vigour, to useful vigour.

Leaving the tap root in this system powers the tree through chops and all other manners of training without the added risk of NEVER HAVING TO REPOT AND CUT ROOTS. That alone makes it worthwhile to me.

Then with the taproot perfectly isolated, it can be easily removed upon proper potting, the "core", the "shin" absolutely indestructible.

Nearly risk free for both Design and Hort.

Way less risk than root pruning with blades.

#savethetaproot
#cuttingdownardgrowingstuffisalwaysfoolish

At least Chesterton's Fence it first!

Sorce

 

[Shibui]

I've found that a form - stone, plate, etc under the roots is not really necessary. Pruning roots is enough to direct and strengthen the remaining roots. Some down roots will grow again but they can also be removed in subsequent root pruning. After a few times the downward roots just stop growing back and the tree relies on the remaining laterals. I have tried most of these techniques but yet to find any that are really better than good root pruning alone.

Different species have different root growth patterns. The ficus I work with are well behaved and few new roots grow in other directions after root pruning so ficus are relatively easy to manage.
Tridents are notorious for producing new roots wherever they can so they tend to need a little more convincing.

 

[penumbra]

I've found that a form - stone, plate, etc under the roots is not really necessary.

Agree, not really necessary ........ but helpful, easier and more expedient in many situations. Especially helpful for planting in ground and subsequent harvest a few years out. I find it also very helpful for collected trees that have a stout tap root. It also seems to encourage multiple trunks to fuse faster and smoother, IMO.
Mileage varies.

 

[bwaynef]

I've found that a form - stone, plate, etc under the roots is not really necessary. Pruning roots is enough to direct and strengthen the remaining roots.

I agree with this, especially when it comes to developING material. A guy in my study group posted pictures of some deciduous seedlings that were grown over some sort of flat impediment like is being discussed here. The gist of his post was that the flat impediment really worked to create a nice nebari. I posted some tridents I'd been working on that only had trad'l root work done and the results showed pretty similar (if not better) results don't require a tile or rock or block of wood.

Now, I think there's a place for such a device/technique when it comes to correcting the nebari of developED material.