jacob letoile's Not a Contest entry

rockm

Imperial Masterpiece
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#21
Thank you for taking the time to write that. I really appreciate it. I did go back and trim the bark and cambium back to green tissue then sealed everything. Im not picking a automatic watering system becaise i think its best, but rather because its the least bad... my job in the summer is unpredictable. And the hotter and dryer it gets the less im home to pay attention and take care of things. I am typing this on my phone, on a tractor. Im open to better ideas that recognize that i may be gone 14 hours a day for a week while its 90deg and breezy.

I also took everything off but the 2 big trunks. Again, thank you to everyone for your advice.
Using a soil with more organic is arguably a better way to go. I think the soil mix you're using is too fast draining for the species. There is a place for organic components in soil, especially for collected deciduous trees. I use soil with 20-30 percent pine bark (the smallest grade prepared orchid bark works pretty well--you can get it at bigger nurseries that sell orchids, or at orchid specialty nurseries). Afternoon shade is also needed in hotter climates.

Hot weather and free draining soil is a bad combination in hot weather. Add a breeze or wind and it's even worse.
 

rockm

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#22
I am assuming you mean now?

I totally agree about the third trunk...
Feeling that energy thing Lance is talking about....

Knowing it don't help your design...and won't ever!

If this thing wasn't 100 with just them 2 trunks! But it is!

And the indent that trunk grows out of is ugly and gets too much attention with that trunk.

Seal that cut too!

Sorce
I mean now, if the tree hasn't been containerized for more than a week (which I think it has). If it's been in that soil for more than that, then this will have to wait until two years down the road, as you don't want to re-pot next year. The problem is that filling in around soggy field soil with free draining soilless mix can inhibit root growth as roots don't travel between such extreme soils easily. With an auto watering system, that field soil will also probably stay soggy and promote rot and root death...
 
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#23
The problem is that filling in around soggy field soil with free draining soilless mix can inhibit root growth as roots don't travel between such extreme soils easily. With an auto watering system, that field soil will also probably stay soggy and promote rot and root death...
I hosed every last bit of field soil off. Every. Last. Bit. What went into that box is tree and bonsai soil.
 
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#24
I very much apreciate the advice im getting here, but for clarity i would like to ask that people distinguish things that they are suggesting i do now from things i could do differently next time.

As a general update, i have removed everything but the two main trunks. There is nothing moving on the tree, nothing swelling, nothing. But there is little movement in the 'wild' trees either. If people who know better think its needed i can repot into a more organic mix, otherwise my plan is to water and wait, doing nothing until i have a good reason to. I will start to fertilize when things start happening.
 

rockm

Imperial Masterpiece
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#25
I very much apreciate the advice im getting here, but for clarity i would like to ask that people distinguish things that they are suggesting i do now from things i could do differently next time.

As a general update, i have removed everything but the two main trunks. There is nothing moving on the tree, nothing swelling, nothing. But there is little movement in the 'wild' trees either. If people who know better think its needed i can repot into a more organic mix, otherwise my plan is to water and wait, doing nothing until i have a good reason to. I will start to fertilize when things start happening.
I hosed every last bit of field soil off. Every. Last. Bit. What went into that box is tree and bonsai soil.
OK, that's great. However, you said in the initial post that you "bare rooted as much as I could," Sorry, but I interpreted that as remaining field soil.

If your tree isn't moving and temps have been below 45 or only a bit warmer since its collection, you can probably move it into new soil with no problem.

Hornbeam here in Va. are just beginning to push new leaves, but it was 87 degrees here on Friday and 85 on Saturday. Things moved very very quickly here. Such warmth will heat pots and roots too, which spurs root growth.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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#26
differently next time
With shit that good I would be asking for advice here long before digging it up.

I been researching oak collection for almost a year for one I'm eyeing, of course, not everything can be left so long, but as soon as you can open the dialogue the less you'll be rechopping, replanting, or even simple pruning again, all of which will severely increase your odds.

It happens all the time......

Prevention is always Key!

Sorce
 
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#27
..next time is the present..
gonna mix some pine into mine, I paid the water bill today