jade "nebari" are actually aerial roots. solutions?

[ekim046]

hey folks,

have a question about my jade. right now, the nebari looks pretty decent for its age.
jade nebari https://imgur.com/gallery/gv59k

but upon closer inspection, these nebari roots are really just fat and well placed aerial roots:
https://imgur.com/gallery/B8NaJ

how should I address this? honestly the original root flair wasn't as pretty so I decided to let these roots take over and keep the bottom section buried underground for now. ultimately I want these aerial roots to form the new nebari but I'm not sure what the best method of "root chopping" I should pursue.

I've read that for topping and propagating cuttings, it is required to let the wound seal before attempting to propagate- not doing so may result in an open invitation for the plants to get sick. if I cut the portion under the aerial roots off, would i need to let the wound seal before I repot the tree?

 

[f1pt4]

hey folks,

if I cut the portion under the aerial roots off, would i need to let the wound seal before I repot the tree?

I didn't but I have next to no organic matter in my soil. Didn't skip a beat.

Check this post. I use @lieuz soil recommendation. Made a huge difference in the health and happiness of my ports.

Except I used Fir bark, because that's what I had.

https://bonsainut.com/threads/another-portuclacaria-afra-progression.27714/#post-457367

 

[bonsai-ben]

Call it a "Port" instead of a "Jade". "Jade" is a crassula. "Port" is a portulacaria afra, the species you actually have. Only you can prevent bonsai mis naming! (sing it to the forest fire guy) Ok, enough bonsai snobbery!

1.) Ports dont have aerial roots. What you are pointing out in the photos, are regular roots, that probably are just at the soil line or below it.

2.) If you cut off a chunk of a Port, whether it be a root, part of its trunk, a branch, new growth, etc., all it will do is harden. Then, it will fall off at the next ring nub. That's it! If there are leaves between the nub and the trunk, then it'll bud just fine too. Easy to chop em back!

3.) Because of #2, you never use cut paste or sealant on a Port. Ever. Never.

4.) If you chop part of the "nebari chunk" it will do exactly as #2 instructs. It'll just harden, and fall off. If this is a nebari ish looking root to the trunk, then you get a big hole where it connected to the trunk. That's it! No new growth, no new roots, just exactly as instructed in #2.

In your last paragraph, you asked questions about rooting cuttings. It's really easy. Cut the branch. Let it sit in a dark room temperature to warm plcae for a few days in open air. The fresh cut will callous over. Then, toss the cutting in bonsai soil. If you water it now, you will kill it. Ports grow roots by using the moisture in their leaves, not by your water. Watering it now suffocates it and kills it. Do not water it dammit. Please stop watering it now. Once you see NEW GROWTH then, you may resume watering. Typically, this is 7-14 days from the time you chopped the branch to root. And that's it

Soil-wise please ignore that post where someone is experimenting with corn husks. Inorganic lava rock is all you need. Boons Mix.

I dont post here much but will try to help if you have more questions. PS -- One thing I tell everyone -- SUN and FERTILIZER. Give it tons of both, high N, nothing else matters and is a waste.

 

[ekim046]

that helped a ton actually. thanks for your input. so action plan, cut the roots below the soil line, repot, and water when new growth comes out only. no cut paste. awesome thanks! as far as timing is concerned, in zone 11b should I be waiting til spring you think?

 

[ekim046]

I'll take a picture when I repot this and show you why i believe these are still roots, the real nebari is some 4 to 6 inches below soil line lol

 

[ekim046]

actually, 12:30 mark shows the root ball prior to repotting, take note that the bottom of the trunk is about 4 to 5 inches below the new soil line roots

 

[f1pt4]

Call it a "Port" instead of a "Jade". "Jade" is a crassula. "Port" is a portulacaria afra, the species you actually have. Only you can prevent bonsai mis naming! (sing it to the forest fire guy) Ok, enough bonsai snobbery!

1.) Ports dont have aerial roots. What you are pointing out in the photos, are regular roots, that probably are just at the soil line or below it.

2.) If you cut off a chunk of a Port, whether it be a root, part of its trunk, a branch, new growth, etc., all it will do is harden. Then, it will fall off at the next ring nub. That's it! If there are leaves between the nub and the trunk, then it'll bud just fine too. Easy to chop em back!

3.) Because of #2, you never use cut paste or sealant on a Port. Ever. Never.

4.) If you chop part of the "nebari chunk" it will do exactly as #2 instructs. It'll just harden, and fall off. If this is a nebari ish looking root to the trunk, then you get a big hole where it connected to the trunk. That's it! No new growth, no new roots, just exactly as instructed in #2.

In your last paragraph, you asked questions about rooting cuttings. It's really easy. Cut the branch. Let it sit in a dark room temperature to warm plcae for a few days in open air. The fresh cut will callous over. Then, toss the cutting in bonsai soil. If you water it now, you will kill it. Ports grow roots by using the moisture in their leaves, not by your water. Watering it now suffocates it and kills it. Do not water it dammit. Please stop watering it now. Once you see NEW GROWTH then, you may resume watering. Typically, this is 7-14 days from the time you chopped the branch to root. And that's it

Soil-wise please ignore that post where someone is experimenting with corn husks. Inorganic lava rock is all you need. Boons Mix.

I dont post here much but will try to help if you have more questions. PS -- One thing I tell everyone -- SUN and FERTILIZER. Give it tons of both, high N, nothing else matters and is a waste.

Everything you said is correct, except the corn husks part. It's not corn husks its coconut husks, I use fir bark. It's pretty much a boon mix with the added bark. No need to hate on it. It works great for @lieuz and I had a wonderful season with the mix as well.

Feel free to ignore this comment too.

Not trying to start another soil war.

As for all you need is Lava. I tend not to agree with that, but I won't say ignore it. Try it out. I did. My crassulas loved it. My ports not so much. Why? I don't know. I'm no expert.

 

[f1pt4]

I'll take a picture when I repot this and show you why i believe these are still roots, the real nebari is some 4 to 6 inches below soil line lol

That's because it was replanted deep at some point from which those top roots came out.

 

[f1pt4]

that helped a ton actually. thanks for your input. so action plan, cut the roots below the soil line, repot, and water when new growth comes out only. no cut paste. awesome thanks! as far as timing is concerned, in zone 11b should I be waiting til spring you think?

No as long as its growing its fine. 11b pretty much means it's growing year round.

With adequate light of course.

 

[bonsai-ben]

that helped a ton actually. thanks for your input. so action plan, cut the roots below the soil line, repot, and water when new growth comes out only. no cut paste. awesome thanks! as far as timing is concerned, in zone 11b should I be waiting til spring you think?

You'll find your Ports will beef up faster by repotting to the next size up once root bound. By really raking everything down to just feeders and being really aggressive is fine, too, but you wont get the trunk swells.

In Zone 11b you can perform anything on a Port any time of the year without worry.

@f1pt4 -- "My crassulas loved it. My ports not so much. Why? I don't know. I'm no expert." Well, they are completely different species for one. The soil I use, works fine, and is inorganic entirely. I am the master of my garden, in Florida, zone 9b. I tell you what works in mine. You are the master of your garden, in Canada, where Ports arent meant to grow to begin with. You have to work extra hard to keep yours alive, ekimo's and mine grow rapidly all year around and have different gardening rules. Do keep that in mind! One of the first rules I learned, to master my garden, is to grow your zone.

 

[f1pt4]

You'll find your Ports will beef up faster by repotting to the next size up once root bound. By really raking everything down to just feeders and being really aggressive is fine, too, but you wont get the trunk swells.

In Zone 11b you can perform anything on a Port any time of the year without worry.

@f1pt4 -- "My crassulas loved it. My ports not so much. Why? I don't know. I'm no expert." Well, they are completely different species for one. The soil I use, works fine, and is inorganic entirely. I am the master of my garden, in Florida, zone 9b. I tell you what works in mine. You are the master of your garden, in Canada, where Ports arent meant to grow to begin with. You have to work extra hard to keep yours alive, ekimo's and mine grow rapidly all year around and have different gardening rules. Do keep that in mind! One of the first rules I learned, to master my garden, is to grow your zone.

You mentioned in your original post, that the corn husk mix is nonsense. First off, there are no corn husks in there.

Followed by, that all you need is lava, or boons mix. Two different mixes. Lava is lava, boon is made up of akadama, pumice, lava, some decomposed granite, and a sprinkle of horticultural charcoal.

I responded, that the lava mix you talk about, from my experience, in my climate, works well with my crassulas, but doesn't work well on my ports. I'm very well aware they are two different species. And no, I don't know why my ports don't like pure lava, but I do have my assumptions.

Now the mix I was referring to, which you so promptly dismissed is very similar to boons mix. Hell take out the minute amount of coconut coir (husks) or fir bark like in my mix, it's pretty much boons mix minus the decomposed granite and horticultural charcoal, and maybe a slightly higher percentage of akadama... I do however implore you to read more carefully (and possibly slower) and not be so quick to shit on other peoples chests before having all your ducks lined up. I don't deny that you might actually know what you're talking about re: ports and other tropicals (although I have no idea who you are, what you grow and what state you're from... you should put that in your profile btw.) but at the same time there is more than one way to skin a .....

And yes.. Portucalaria's aren't meant to grow in Toronto. And yes, there is a fair amount of effort needed to grow them in the winter. But neither are ficuses, bouganvillias, scheffleras, serissas and a ton more. But you know what.. many people spend a lot of time and effort to grow them here, and they might not have the thickness of hedge material but they still bring us warmth and colour on dreary winter days... and... and... wait for it. They present quite well in shows.... Although what would take you 5 years to grow in Florida takes us 20.

I hope you and your trees were safe from the disaster your state recently incurred.

Be well.

 

[bonsai-ben]

You can try to sound smart and stuff by typing big paragraphs with condescending tone in it, but you are a man growing a plant out of his zone and must hack at your techniques to keep it alive. That is why I stated, quite clearly, that what works in my garden (the correct zone) may be different than your zone (the "wrong zone, broski").

Ports like it dry. Husks, whether from your shoes, corn, coconuts, or small childrens body parts, retain moisture. You may ask Seth Nelson, the curator of Heathcote Gardens, the largest tropical garden in the world that features Portulcaria Afras. But what do I know? I have a low post count so you can insult me, that's cool.

Ports dont need moisture. They just need an occasional drink. Once you learn about your plants, instead of insulting others, you will find your plants respond better. And, often times, so do the people you are being a mean and a dick to. Now please let the original poster, and me, who live in the correct environment to grow a succulent in, continue our talk. We were doing just fine before you jumped in with all of the wrong information for the wrong zone for the wrong species.

 

[f1pt4]

Funny.

You don't actually understand what I'm saying. I guess it's tough to hear sitting so high.

No need to persue this any further. It's like talking to a wall.

Your post count has nothing to do with it.

Happy growing!

Broski.