Japanese Black Pine Revival #1

jriddell88

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this is going to be the first of a hand full of JBP progression threads. This one is starting the get some nice bark. First order of business this coming spring will be to begin working on the rootball and getting some good soil mixed in. Soil now is rock solid not allowing water to penetrate well, thus causing some rotting of lower bark where it puddles, and we don't want that bark going to shito_O. Plan to let some runners go and fatten the trunk up a bit. We will see how this year's growth goes to start candles pruning . I'd like to start reducing needle size over the next few years. In its arrival state it was much too tall for the size of the trunk as to what I am invisioning.20160115_205724.jpg
20160207_225838.jpg Unwanted branches were removed, and minimal pruning was done to "open" her up a bit. Will jin removed branches. Wired some of the tree , but still greatly pondering design and position ideas.
20160207_224520.jpg
An apex needs to.be establised but This one does have a pretty interesting nebari that is starting to bark over nicely.
20160207_224958.jpg
Not decided exactly which direction to take it in yet.
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Potawatomi13

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Would suggest since roots one sided that find roots on other side of tree and angle tree so all/most are on surface if possible. Plan design of tree from this angle;). Is very young and most possibilities are up in air presently anyway.
 

Adair M

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A couple of comments:

Generally speaking, you don't Jin JBP a branches, like you do juniper. JBP live on the coast, their deadwood rots away quickly, so it's not a common feature.

Your problem is not long needles, it's long internodes. And lack of branching close to the trunk. Wiring it out will help it backbud.

Your wiring looks ok. The trunk is curved. The branches should be curved. You bent them down, yes. But you need to introduce some curves to the branches. They look pretty straight.

Next time don't remove a low branch placed on the outside of a curve on the trunk. Those are golden.

Also, try to find a way to use all the branches you have. Sure, you will want to remove "bar" branches, and excess branches at a whorl, but be careful! It's better to have too many later on than too few later on.

Yes, working the nebari and roots are your next priority.
 

jriddell88

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A couple of comments:

Generally speaking, you don't Jin JBP a branches, like you do juniper. JBP live on the coast, their deadwood rots away quickly, so it's not a common feature.

Your problem is not long needles, it's long internodes. And lack of branching close to the trunk. Wiring it out will help it backbud.

Your wiring looks ok. The trunk is curved. The branches should be curved. You bent them down, yes. But you need to introduce some curves to the branches. They look pretty straight.

Next time don't remove a low branch placed on the outside of a curve on the trunk. Those are golden.

Also, try to find a way to use all the branches you have. Sure, you will want to remove "bar" branches, and excess branches at a whorl, but be careful! It's better to have too many later on than too few later on.

Yes, working the nebari and roots are your next priority.
Yes more movement in the branches to come I only wired very little just to open it up some. Normally I wouldn't remove branches like that one but im going for a taller almost literati style tree with this one with the slender trunk. Thanks for the comments.
 

Adair M

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Fair enough.

Get back to work and finish wiring it out. Some of the wire looks too thin to be effective.
 

jriddell88

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The fourth picture is probably the closet to the front that I'm picturing. I don't like the s shaped trunk and there is also a very straight section of trunk at the top. This possible front hides the s and makes the straight section not to unpleasant. This ISue may be addressed at some point. I saw kimura in one of the bonsai today mags slightly bent a straight section of trunk to make it less noticeable. Internodes are a huge concern and will be worked on over the coming years. Hoping to get backbudding closer to the trunk
 

jriddell88

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I decided to reduce the old brick root ball and HBR with some fresh soil. The tree seemed to respond very well and pushed a nice flush , so i decandled .Plan to continue to tighten it up as much as possible over the next few years , may need to end up grafting. Back to the bench and waiting for fall . 20160825_220620-1.jpg
 

jriddell88

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You don't have garden tools bro?you should get some that way you don't ruin your fine stainless steel tools, that's just me. Scale reference as well
 

jriddell88

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I have very little in this tree
Not bad. Pull those lower branches down a little more...
Exactly , now , just thinking about balance also...

With the lean to right,what would create a better balance . Doodling....frame the wiggle and base right ?
36FB65BD-445B-4C8B-B653-C0021CA90CD6.jpeg

Or cascade away with the lean
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The lowest branch (on the right ) needs to thicken , will let it run for the next years to come
 

Brian Van Fleet

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I would pull the frost right branch down so it’s lower than the first left branch. Don’t worry about thickening it, set it in the right spot and build ramification. Thin branches make the trunk look thicker.
 

Adair M

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On slant styles, you can have either side be the lowest.

Generally speaking, most Westerners prefer to have the lowest branch going opposite the slant.

Generally speaking most Japanese would have the lowest branch be on the side the slant is going.

Either way is “correct”. It’s just a matter of which you prefer, and what the tree gives you to work with.

On slender trunked trees like this one, it’s preferable to have shorter branches. And less canopy. The idea is the tree is slender because it had to grow tall quickly to reach the light. Spreading branches don’t fit that narritive. Short fat trunks can have longer fuller branches.
 
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