Japanese Maple #30
- Thread starter Walter Pall
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Walter Pall
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bwaynef
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Do you know anything about how the base was grown/developed?
Walter Pall
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Standard in the bonsai nursing business: From a seedling. Let grow for two years and then cut flat at the ground level. Then take the cut off trunk and use as cutting again. A nebari will evolve as it would after air layering.Let grow freely. Then cut off AGAIN at ground level. This time use the base with good nebari. If you are lucky many shoots will grow out of it. in this case it was nine. Let the shoots grow for a year. Then cut back to first or second bud. Then let grow again . After two years apply wire and bend the trunks the way you want them. After this work on it like in regular development. So far this was very skilled gardening work. Now comes the artistic part.
Amateurs should not even think of doing this themselves. One needs many years of experience and thousands of failures to get this right..At every step there will be failurs. The bad ones are discarded. From 1000 seedlings after twenty years only very few will make it to a good bonsai. But certainly most will not be the quality of the presentded one. Only very few in many years will be the quality of my raw material as presented in the thread which s is not the end but the start of very serious development. I plan to finish this within ten years to become a stunning bonsai.
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bwaynef
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I didn't deserve such a detailed reply, but I appreciate you taking the time.
Walter Pall
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Canada Bonsai
Shohin
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How far apart are the trunks that are furthest from eachother? 30cm? 20cm?
This tree was
misfit11
Omono
Uhhhhhh..... I think he knows.
Hack Yeah!
Omono
@Canada Bonsai , care to enlighten us to how it was made after your trollish comment?
Walter Pall
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Japanese Maple #30 - only six months after my first styling the development is quite promising
Sean Walker
Mame
The process you explained on how the base was developed. Does it have a name and is there any recommended reading on it?
Walter Pall
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I don't think so, I assume it was originally a trade secret that has leaked through to us.
Malix
Mame
Wonderful tree! Thanks for sharing Walter..
Walter Pall
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Japanese Maple #30 - second flush after full defoliation
dlayton
Mame
Walter,
It seems like every where I read, it cautions full defoliation on Japanese maples, yet here you are! Do you mind explaining why that is said, and why you prove that false? If I have missed the explanation in other threads I apologize!
beautiful tree as always!
It seems like every where I read, it cautions full defoliation on Japanese maples, yet here you are! Do you mind explaining why that is said, and why you prove that false? If I have missed the explanation in other threads I apologize!
beautiful tree as always!
Walter Pall
Masterpiece
Ever heard about the hedge pruning method? It sounds cruel, but it is only to make clear that it is NOT the orthodox method, but something very different. Orthodox methods are weakening the trees by pinching very soon and by cutting often. Hedges usually one lets grow out until they are very unsightly and then brutally cuts back. Thus a hedge is first strengthened a lot by letting grow freely and then pushed back very much. As a result it explodes with new buds afterwards and gets very dense. If you do this with maples and in addition increase the shock by totally defoliating you get unseen back budding and multiplying of buds. The maple will get dense very quickly.
Since it was strengthened before the shock it responds very well. Orthodox methods are weakening trees and are for keeping trees the way they are. If you defoliate a weak tree it will not respond well. - that's the answer to your question. My method is for developing trees. So the whole bonsai world uses methods which are for finished trees on trees that they want to develop and have problems.
Mind you, defoliating time is over!!! Don't do it after the end of June!
Methods can be only valued by their results. - long term results - not by what people say about them.
Probably the single most difficult aspect of learning the art of bonsai stems from the issue you point out - application/demonstration of techniques that, albeit sound, are not properly suited for the specific stage of development. I have killed and set back many a tree on account of this. It's maddening. Best to thoroughly understand how the tree functions and how it responds to work performed, rather than blindly apply "sound techniques". To be sure, I have seen many a thread attempting a description of the "Walter Pall hedge pruning method" because they admire your trees. What follows is almost always a discussion that the person is not actually using your method and/or is using it incorrectly. You have been kind enough to share multiple progression threads demonstrating your techniques and the results. The trees speak for themselves. The techniques obviously work, but only if employed correctly. Otherwise, we are just mangling trees.
Walter Pall
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Japanese Maple #30 - after full defoliation
Walter Pall
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Japanese Maple #30 - now on artificial stone slab by Josef Rauscher, Bonsai Kreativ
Walter Pall
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