Japanese maple and ficus suggestions

Matt Gleason

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IMG_1902.JPG IMG_1904.JPG IMG_1905.JPG IMG_1908.JPG IMG_1907.JPG IMG_1910.JPG ok so here is the deal I went bargain hunting and found these 2 today the ficus marked down to 25$ from 99 and the jap to 30 from 60 so I had to buy them haha being new to this these are my pre bonsai trunk chop subjects I was hopin to cut the ficus into 3 parts and try to root the 2 upper halves not a huge loss of the tops fail and the maple I was planning to chop also what would be the best time of year to chop these what's my next step help please!!
 

Labreapits

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Hopefully you will get some back budding on your ficus benjamina. They can be stubborn about it.

Pretty maple. That is a ruff graft to try and hide. It will make for good practice!

Keep posting your progress.
 
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Just avoid ficus benjamina is my advice.
I agree with Jerry. You can make a decent tree out of one, but there are much better candidates and they are quite common and not expensive. Select one of the other commonly found ficus if you really want one. Sorry to say but neither one of these trees has any redeeming features. Of course, you will have plenty of fun experimenting on them. Benjamina are typically limp and leggy with no trunk or branch taper, and they don't grow as fast as other cultivars. High maple grafts are typically ugly and will always be ugly. You are better off attempting to layer your maple above the graft. You should consider letting the ficus grow out to develop a fat trunk before reduction. Just enjoy them for what they are.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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Since you have it....

I would make good airlayers up top...

And hapazard the base...
If it sprouts it sprout...

But you could get movement and nice starts with layers of the top.

Sorce
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
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Keep an eye on that maple. It looks like it's on the edge. Although the sunscalded leaves aren't really a problem, the rest of the interior foliage doesn't look exactly healthy. There might be a soil issue.

I'd also agree about air layering above that bulgy graft in the spring.
 

ColinFraser

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You could also cut the maple back hard, but not a full chop, hoping it would give you a bud below the graft that you could then chop to . . . The particular cultivar is in the same group (amoenum) as 'Bloodgood' - notorious as a poor bonsai choice (thought many try) for its large leaves and long internodes - so the top might not be the half to worry about keeping anyway.
 

armetisius

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Hopefully you will get some back budding on your ficus benjamina. They can be stubborn about it.
. . . . your progress.
Probably going to be handed my ass about this but I have found that things tend to
do better for me if I take the canopy down about a third at a time. Just seems to give
the plant enough foliage to keep the tree kicking hard while it recovers from the loss
of all that green. There is also more food producing foliage to help those buds come
on a healthy tree. I have never seen the reason to cut anything to within an inch of
its life and then act all confused when it doesn't have the strength/foliage to recover
within the season. JMHO
 

Matt Gleason

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I'm not too worried about the graft I can see worrying about it in the future but as of now these are my learner trees that if I kill them I won't be to worried trying to familiarize myself with the process of trunk chopping and cutting back hard as Colin said I was actually thinking about it this morning and plan on cutting it back rather than chopping it would spring be the best time to try and cut it back and also what would be a good time to cut trunk of the ficus
 

armetisius

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Work ficus while they are growing is all I know about them directly.
My trays of Ficus pumila have been growing all season and have
been cut/re-cut like a half dozen times. And I still need to be out
there now doing it again.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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@Matt Gleason - Hi, you and I are in the same climate, I'm at the IL-WI border, just south of you. Work on the ficus now, while it is hot. Ficus go dormant most of the autumn-winter-spring around here, unless you have a warm greenhouse. So chop your ficus now, will it is active.

Where do you plan to winter your maple? If outside, with minimal protection, I would just let it grow until spring.

If you have a protected spot where temps stay between 32F and 40F that you could winter the maple you could get away with a lot of work.

Trees thst are just recovering from work in August in our zone 5b won't have time to fully mature and be ready for - 20F subzero weather. Maples have been a problem for me so I recommend going slow with it.

Personally I would only do a partial trim, less than a third of foliage, in spring, and repot to a 15 x 15 x 4 inch deep tray. Let it establish a root system capable of supporting a lot of foliage in the training tray first. It may take a year or two, then when growing vigorously, in 2018 would I do the hard chop. Slow go approach, but for me maples don't seem very vigorous.

that's what I'd do
 
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