junmilo
Shohin
Hi,
I have a couple of JM that's turning into black color. Is this too much water? Or fungus?
Thanks.
I have a couple of JM that's turning into black color. Is this too much water? Or fungus?
Thanks.
Japanese Maple Bark turning Black
- Thread starter junmilo
- Start date
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Without a picture hard to confirm but virticillium wilt will turn a maple black. There is no cure. you can cut branches off and burn them, but what good does it do to cut branches off a bonsai.
MACH5
Imperial Masterpiece
Agreed. A better case scenario would be Pseudomonas Syringae a bacterial infection which also turns branches black. This however is treatable. It often affects maples in cold and wet conditions. Does your tree have large untreated cuts? As Smoke said, please post a pic.
Read here: http://crataegus.com/2011/11/29/read-this-if-you-grow-japanese-maple/
Read here: http://crataegus.com/2011/11/29/read-this-if-you-grow-japanese-maple/
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Black bark = recently dead cambium, period. There can be many, many causes, not all of which are pathogenic.
Verticillium is in most natual soils and usually gets into a tree by damage to the trunk. The definitive identification for a gardener is to cut through an affected twig (i.e., in the blackened area or immediately below) an observe dark-brown to black stains in the 'sap wood'. Verticillium becomes inactive in the higher temperatures of late-spring/summer-time. Verticillium is soil-borne, therefore it can be suspected in the landscape when there is damage near the soil line or freshly pruned bonsai set on the ground just before rain occurs.
More common is netria canker which causes symptoms similar to verticillium - a branch suddenly dies and dessicated foliage hangs on. Definitive i.d. is possible only in the fall when small orange fruiting bodies appear in the affected areas, otherwise, it manifests itself by girdling branches/trunks. It is more active at higher temperatures. It is commonly spread by pruning (cut an affected tree, fail to strerilize the scissor/pruner/saw, cut & infect the next tree).
As Mach 5 indicated, there is also psedomona syringae, which is uniquely an air-borne pathogen, tending to enter through buds (i.e., no cuts required). Certain acer palmatum cultivars seem to be susceptible and others not. It is my understanding that ZeroTol may be effective as well as Phyton 35. You might also want to try adding hydrogen peroxide at the rate of one quarter cup of 3% peroxide (standard drug store strength) to one quart of your antifungicide mix (effectiveness of this is prure speculation on my part).
Lastly, let me add that if you pruned in an internode, the stub will inevitably turn black, down to at least the nearest internode. This normal and occurs because the lack of auxin causes the cambium to die. Eventually this will dessicate and turn tan and then white just like the normal spring twig die-back.
Verticillium is in most natual soils and usually gets into a tree by damage to the trunk. The definitive identification for a gardener is to cut through an affected twig (i.e., in the blackened area or immediately below) an observe dark-brown to black stains in the 'sap wood'. Verticillium becomes inactive in the higher temperatures of late-spring/summer-time. Verticillium is soil-borne, therefore it can be suspected in the landscape when there is damage near the soil line or freshly pruned bonsai set on the ground just before rain occurs.
More common is netria canker which causes symptoms similar to verticillium - a branch suddenly dies and dessicated foliage hangs on. Definitive i.d. is possible only in the fall when small orange fruiting bodies appear in the affected areas, otherwise, it manifests itself by girdling branches/trunks. It is more active at higher temperatures. It is commonly spread by pruning (cut an affected tree, fail to strerilize the scissor/pruner/saw, cut & infect the next tree).
As Mach 5 indicated, there is also psedomona syringae, which is uniquely an air-borne pathogen, tending to enter through buds (i.e., no cuts required). Certain acer palmatum cultivars seem to be susceptible and others not. It is my understanding that ZeroTol may be effective as well as Phyton 35. You might also want to try adding hydrogen peroxide at the rate of one quarter cup of 3% peroxide (standard drug store strength) to one quart of your antifungicide mix (effectiveness of this is prure speculation on my part).
Lastly, let me add that if you pruned in an internode, the stub will inevitably turn black, down to at least the nearest internode. This normal and occurs because the lack of auxin causes the cambium to die. Eventually this will dessicate and turn tan and then white just like the normal spring twig die-back.
junmilo
Shohin
MACH5
Imperial Masterpiece
Even out of focus it does not look good to me. Also I highly suggest to place this tree or any other that may be affected away from any other plant to prevent possible spread. I would go ahead and treat with ZeroTol. If it is Verticilium Wilt it will not matter but at least the plant is being treated in case is not. Cut off all affected areas.
FYI I had same issue last year with a Japanese maple that had spots that were blackened and foliage was wilting. I treated it as recommended with ZeroTol and was able to save the tree.
FYI I had same issue last year with a Japanese maple that had spots that were blackened and foliage was wilting. I treated it as recommended with ZeroTol and was able to save the tree.
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junmilo
Shohin
MACH5
Imperial Masterpiece
Was this tree outside during winter? I ask because these latest pics look more like cold damage to me.
junmilo
Shohin
No sir, in my unheated garage.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Did you ever water them while in the garage? More specifically, how dry did the soil get to be while it was in the garage?
junmilo
Shohin
Yes, watered them periodically. the plants were at the side off the garage, I had my SUV parked beside them, sometimes when my daughter gets out of the car and the door hits the branches.
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
This is really bad if the tree was in the drip zone of the roof. The water running off the roof will splash dirty water up and on the tree causing pathogens to gain a foot hold. I lost a really good J. Maple to a roof drip zone splash about five years ago. Once a wilt takes hold there is nothing left to do.
junmilo
Shohin
MACH5
Imperial Masterpiece
Tough to say for sure what it may be. Perhaps wait a bit and see what pops in spring. I would observe them closely. If you see a progression of blackened parts/spots, I would treat your plants ASAP. Regardless separate these trees from any other plant to avoid a possible spread. I am hoping it is not Verticilium as there is no cure for it.
discusmike
Omono
Black usually means death or die back,not good.
John P.
Chumono
I know this thread’s old, but rather than create a new one ...
What do you make of this? Black trunk but seems to be leafing out okay.
Acer shirasawanum “Jordan” from Conifer Kingdom:
What do you make of this? Black trunk but seems to be leafing out okay.
Acer shirasawanum “Jordan” from Conifer Kingdom:
MAPLE
Seedling
That doesn't look good at all!
Was this recently potted or purchased?
Was this recently potted or purchased?
John P.
Chumono
Ordered in late February, received about a month ago. Also received a Little Sango that’s a little edgy.
$305 for two plants. Shame on me.
$305 for two plants. Shame on me.
namnhi
Masterpiece
Sorry but the black trunk is a dead maple. Happens sometime without reason
MAPLE
Seedling
Agreed.
The plant is leafing out on its reserves. once that spent the leaves will wilt and die. I would contact the supplier about this.
