Japanese Maple: Complete branch removal with first potting?

[Lars Grimm]

Hi All,

I have a basic question here. I have a field grown red japanese maple currently sitting in burlap and field soil awaiting spring for me to put it in a wooden box with bonsai soil. Almost all of the existing branches are overly large and out of position. Is there any reason why I can't do a near complete branch removal when I do my root pruning and repotting? Basically, I am wondering if I need to keep some branches to maintain vigor/health of the tree.

Thanks,
Lars

 

[Dav4]

If the tree is healthy, you can cut all the branches back to the trunk and expect back budding up and down the trunk, even if you work the roots. Check this out...http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/35-japanese-maple-project.14475/

 

[jriddell88]

If the tree is healthy, you can cut all the branches back to the trunk and expect back budding up and down the trunk, even if you work the roots. Check this out...http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/35-japanese-maple-project.14475/

@Dav4 do you still have the raft, would love to see an update I really enjoy that one !

 

[Dav4]

@Dav4 do you still have the raft, would love to see an update I really enjoy that one !

I do. I might have time to take some pics and post tomorrow.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Flying blind without photos, but since we're taking basics, here are a couple thoughts:

If you remove most of the large branches, consider delaying aggressive root work until the tree has closed the wounds. Big chops plus heavy root work into a smaller pot means the big chops will be very slow to heal.

Further, you may want to consider keeping some branches you can use to thread-graft into the right spots.

 

[Lars Grimm]

If the tree is healthy, you can cut all the branches back to the trunk and expect back budding up and down the trunk, even if you work the roots. Check this out...http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/35-japanese-maple-project.14475/

Thanks! That's a real nice thread.

 

[Lars Grimm]

Flying blind without photos, but since we're taking basics, here are a couple thoughts:

If you remove most of the large branches, consider delaying aggressive root work until the tree has closed the wounds. Big chops plus heavy root work into a smaller pot means the big chops will be very slow to heal.

Further, you may want to consider keeping some branches you can use to thread-graft into the right spots.

Thanks Brian. I might be able to use a couple of them for grafting. I didn't think of that.