Japanese Maple cuttings?

dani

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When is the best time to get those cuttings and get them started? I read very controversial stuff online - some say Summer, some say early Spring, some even say the season doesn't matter so you can do it any time of the year.

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I saw some large pieces where someone pruned their yard tree crepe murder style and wondered if wrist size cuttings would root.

What say ye nuts?
 

Bonsai Nut

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I saw some large pieces where someone pruned their yard tree crepe murder style and wondered if wrist size cuttings would root.

What say ye nuts?

Wrist sized? I would say no - for Japanese maple. Far better to take an area layer on material that large.
 

Solaris

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I strongly suspect that it's rather dependent on local climate.
Couldn't say for sure, though. I've even managed to kill willow cuttings.
 

dani

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I strongly suspect that it's rather dependent on local climate.
Couldn't say for sure, though. I've even managed to kill willow cuttings.

When you say "dependent on the local climate" do you mean when it's summer time? Or Spring? We have 4 seasons here, end of this month we get Spring. But its 18C/57F here right now, very sunny and warm, so, we're half way there
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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When you say "dependent on the local climate" do you mean when it's summer time? Or Spring? We have 4 seasons here, end of this month we get Spring. But its 18C/57F here right now, very sunny and warm, so, we're half way there

Hi dani,
I think @Solaris was saying that “your Spring/Summer may/will be different from theirs. And I am totally different again as in New Zealand it is Late Summer/Early Autumn.
So to answer your question - you are going to get many answers. And best of all is to experiment with your climate and do HEAPS of cuttings, all at different times of the year. So, some say Hardwood ( no leaves), and many say Semi- Hardwood ( when new growth hardens), so you can do Semi-Hardwood cuttings after a flush of growth etc - early Summer or mid Summer, and it all depend on lots of factors.
1. Prop mix you use - must be open, lots of oxygen, perlite and or pumice etc.
2. The strength of rooting hormone you use - 1-2% of IBA is recommended.
3. Bottom heat is advantageous, but not a total necessity.
4. Some sort of humidity/ misting system - eg sprays water every few minutes to the simple plastic bottle over a pot and sprinkle water in occasionally so cuttings don’t dry out.

I suppose the one most important fact is the rooting hormone as some cultivars root easily (common JM) where as some cultivars might root with difficulty and then not grow strongly enough to bother with. Hence why most JM cultivars are grafted.
Good luck in your efforts,
Charles
 

dani

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@KiwiPlantGuy thank you! Yes, I guess it's a trial and error. I purchased some stuff and I'd give it a try later this month probably and see how it goes. Thank you for the advices!
 

jmw_bonsai

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As mentioned above, semi soft wood cuttings taken just as the new years growth starts to harden off. A general rule would be 2 months after leaf out. The new years growth is juvenile and roots quicker than say hardwoods. As Kiwi mentioned above, i have found the biggest help in success is misting. If you can mist them every 15-30 mins for 5-15 secs they can last for months without wilting which gives them time to root! I use a timer ~50$ that has a valve in it and hooks up to regular hose connections. Runs off of a battery, so no wiring needed. Just have to connect that up to a small amount of PVC and attach a small mister/fogger. I can get one of those for under ~10$.
 

RobertB

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As mentioned above, semi soft wood cuttings taken just as the new years growth starts to harden off. A general rule would be 2 months after leaf out. The new years growth is juvenile and roots quicker than say hardwoods. As Kiwi mentioned above, i have found the biggest help in success is misting. If you can mist them every 15-30 mins for 5-15 secs they can last for months without wilting which gives them time to root! I use a timer ~50$ that has a valve in it and hooks up to regular hose connections. Runs off of a battery, so no wiring needed. Just have to connect that up to a small amount of PVC and attach a small mister/fogger. I can get one of those for under ~10$.

Good info here.
 

RobertB

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As mentioned above, semi soft wood cuttings taken just as the new years growth starts to harden off. A general rule would be 2 months after leaf out. The new years growth is juvenile and roots quicker than say hardwoods. As Kiwi mentioned above, i have found the biggest help in success is misting. If you can mist them every 15-30 mins for 5-15 secs they can last for months without wilting which gives them time to root! I use a timer ~50$ that has a valve in it and hooks up to regular hose connections. Runs off of a battery, so no wiring needed. Just have to connect that up to a small amount of PVC and attach a small mister/fogger. I can get one of those for under ~10$.

What type of battery powered system are you using? Most of the ones I see limit the frequency. So by my rough estimate, I need a timer that cuts on 48 times throughout a day for 10 sec.
 

jmw_bonsai

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What type of battery powered system are you using? Most of the ones I see limit the frequency. So by my rough estimate, I need a timer that cuts on 48 times throughout a day for 10 sec.
Let me see if I can get a link posted. Keep in mind it is not just a timer, it controls a valve. SO not useful of trying to interface to a standalone valve.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N62RK...t=&hvlocphy=9029366&hvtargid=pla-349962589439
 

jmw_bonsai

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Let me see if I can get a link posted. Keep in mind it is not just a timer, it controls a valve. SO not useful of trying to interface to a standalone valve.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N62RK...t=&hvlocphy=9029366&hvtargid=pla-349962589439

I don't use the moisture sensor so I cover it with a plastic bag to keep it from working, there is no way to disable via software. It does have settings that allow you to not run the timer say from 7pm to 8am so it doesn't run at night when not needed. Since I cover it I haven't tried the rechargeable via solar option. The link I posted is to the newer model but still looks the same as what I have. If you google around on the brand, you can find other places that sell them. I bought mine at another site.
 

jmw_bonsai

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The misters, actually foggers, I used come from Greenhouse megastore. Look there for some simple misting heads. There are plenty of irrigation ones, but I wanted something simple that just has a PVC interface.
 

ysrgrathe

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The misters, actually foggers, I used come from Greenhouse megastore. Look there for some simple misting heads. There are plenty of irrigation ones, but I wanted something simple that just has a PVC interface.
The netafim misters are really nice!
 
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I'd like to do do this some day. I'm thinking that I'll use a small essential oil defused with just water. The water particles from a defuser are much smaller than a humidifier!
 

ysrgrathe

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I'd like to do do this some day. I'm thinking that I'll use a small essential oil defused with just water. The water particles from a defuser are much smaller than a humidifier!

It works great! The fog keeps humidity high without wetting the leaves.

This was my first attempt. I recently tried one of the small diffusers that fit inside, but there was no control over the rate of fog. It was too fast which led to excess water, and it tended to either run out or just turn itself off more frequently than I could check it.
 
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Does the small one use a transformer that drops the voltage down? Similar to a charger. If so you could control the fog rate with a potentiometer that's rated for more than the defuser's power supply.
 
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