Japanese Maple Cuttings

B.uneasy

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At my current home there is a Japanese Maple gifted to our family in remembrance of my great grandfather from my much loved great uncle. Moving it is not an option, and as you can tell it has emotional significance to my family. I am moving in the next two weeks, and was wondering if I could recieve any tips and wisdom on out to get cuttings from the tree, and actually manage to get a piece from the tree that will live on for symbolic purposes. I appreciate all of the future advice, and I wish everyone safety.
 

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penumbra

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How large is it? Anything can be moved, it is a mater of coast. I transplanted hundreds of trees in my career before I retired.
If you want a piece of it you would be best off to layer it, but this may not work according to your schedule. Cuttings from dissectum maples can be challenging to impossible.
 

B.uneasy

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Maybe with a bit of spring magic and rooting hornone I will beable to accomplish this. I know It can be moved, Im just not capable of moving it at the moment. Dont have a spot for it to go :/
 

penumbra

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Why don't you talk to one of the nurseries in your area. They could probably put you in touch with an expert and either root it or graft it. I sincerely wish you the best of luck on this.
 

River's Edge

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At my current home there is a Japanese Maple gifted to our family in remembrance of my great grandfather from my much loved great uncle. Moving it is not an option, and as you can tell it has emotional significance to my family. I am moving in the next two weeks, and was wondering if I could recieve any tips and wisdom on out to get cuttings from the tree, and actually manage to get a piece from the tree that will live on for symbolic purposes. I appreciate all of the future advice, and I wish everyone safety.
It is definitely worth a try. I would take cuttings approximately 4-6 inches in length with three sets of buds, thickness 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Maintain the correct orientation and seal the top of each cutting. Use a rooting hormone on the base of the cutting and let it sit and dry there for at least I hour before planting. the base should be cut with a very sharp blade and just about 1/4 inch below the lowest set of buds. Plant the cutting fairly deep 2 1/2 to 3 inch deep in the substrate. I prefer to plant the cuttings on an angle rather than straight up. My favourite substrate is small particle pumice, the size that stays on top of the smallest screen in the three screen set. I then shred sphagnum moss to cover the surface and help retain moisture. Place the cuttings in a shady place and ensure that they do not dry out!
Any container can work but I prefer a Andersen flat due to the depth and drainage. One flat can easily accommodate fifty cuttings if placed about 1 inch apart in rows.
Good luck, let us know how it works for you.
 

Paulpash

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The growth habit looks like a Dissectum rather than a Palmatum? If I'm right, that significantly lowers the success rate of cuttings and any air layers but there is no harm whatsoever having a go.
 

penumbra

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Pretty much unless you have a full hydroponic set up. Even then, maybe.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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is it impossible to root them in water?

Individual results will vary, but to get maple cuttings to root at a 75% or higher success rate, requires a fairly elaborate set up. If you also put some weeping willow cuttings in the glass of water with your maple cuttings, maybe one out of 25, to 1 out of 100 will root. Every time the willow cuttings sprout roots, take those out and put in a new set of weeping willow cuttings.

THe willow trick is weeping willow cuttings, before they root, leak natural rooting hormones into the water. Once the weeping willow cuttings root, they stop leaking hormones. An alternate is to use willow water to water your maple cuttings if you root them in a media like perlite & peat moss.

The point of my post, it is not impossible to root maple cuttings, but it is difficult. Even professional nurseries will use grafting for propagation of maples, because getting cuttings to root is difficult and not reliable.

Grafting is a good technique, but is also a technique that requires training and practice to get your success rate above 75%. But once you are proficient in grafting, your success rate can be above 90% for the cleft grafting used to propagate maples. But it takes practice. Like playing bagpipes, it won't be good for anyone the first time.
 

MrWunderful

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The growth habit looks like a Dissectum rather than a Palmatum? If I'm right, that significantly lowers the success rate of cuttings and any air layers but there is no harm whatsoever having a go.

Yeah looks like it is to me too.

I think airlayer is the way to go, even though its a little more advanced.
 

Hack Yeah!

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Dissectum is a var of palmatum. I'd try to figure out how to take the whole thing. If you can only do cuttings I think you need to play the game get as many as possible and hope for one to make it
 

clem

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Cuttings make roots better when you take them "in green" (the shoot is still maleable) like these examples ->
IMG_08bouture.jpg

you keep 4 or 6 leaves. You put it in the water just after cut from the trunk. You put them in a very draining substrate : potting soil (30%) + vermiculite (70%). You cultivate them in a warm and 99% hygrometrie atmosphère. (thoses advises come from a great pro who produces palmatum cuttings)

Your tree looks like a palmatum dissectum : those cuttings are the most difficult to root .. but it is possible ->
IMG_0406.JPG
 

AlainK

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Right.

Summer cuttings i.e. summer cuttings ("in green") are far more likely to root.

For cultivars like laceleaf cvs, a misting system in a greenhouse helps, although once again : not all J. maples can live long on their own roots.

Some do, others don't...
 

clem

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Right.
Summer cuttings i.e. summer cuttings ("in green") are far more likely to root.

Salut Alain
By "in green" i mean : when the cutting is still maleable/easily flexible, with green color of the bark. You can take cutting in the end of spring or summer : the consistency of the cutting is the only important thing.

For cultivars like laceleaf cvs, a misting system in a greenhouse helps, although once again : not all J. maples can live long on their own roots.

Some do, others don't...
I spoke to the owner of the nursery, and for him, what you say here "not all J. maples can live long on their own roots." is not true. The same as saying that cultivar with their own roots are more frequently attacked by fungus (verticilliose etc).
For him, the only thing that count is that the cutting make a lot of strong roots : a lot of strong roots = strong tree. Very few roots = weak tree. That's all.
I just repeat what he said to me, he worked before in research laboratorie about trees propagation (cuttings of pinus radiata etc
 

AlainK

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"not all J. maples can live long on their own roots." is not true. The same as saying that cultivar with their own roots are more frequently attacked by fungus (verticilliose etc).

I'd really like to hear what some like Leo (in Illinois) or Osoyoung and others will say about that... :)
 

SouthernMaple

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Individual results will vary, but to get maple cuttings to root at a 75% or higher success rate, requires a fairly elaborate set up. If you also put some weeping willow cuttings in the glass of water with your maple cuttings, maybe one out of 25, to 1 out of 100 will root. Every time the willow cuttings sprout roots, take those out and put in a new set of weeping willow cuttings.

THe willow trick is weeping willow cuttings, before they root, leak natural rooting hormones into the water. Once the weeping willow cuttings root, they stop leaking hormones. An alternate is to use willow water to water your maple cuttings if you root them in a media like perlite & peat moss.

The point of my post, it is not impossible to root maple cuttings, but it is difficult. Even professional nurseries will use grafting for propagation of maples, because getting cuttings to root is difficult and not reliable.

Grafting is a good technique, but is also a technique that requires training and practice to get your success rate above 75%. But once you are proficient in grafting, your success rate can be above 90% for the cleft grafting used to propagate maples. But it takes practice. Like playing bagpipes, it won't be good for anyone the first time.
i just read and watched a video on willow water, just google it, pretty much what the guy said is that he uses new green growth on willow trees and cuts the pieces and puts them in a blender and makes a frothy smoothie with them and places the cuttings he wants to root in the mixture. He says its much more effective to blend them instead of putting into just the water with the cuttings, something to do with surface area, heres the video:
 

AlainK

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"not all J. maples can live long on their own roots." is not true.

See Vertrees & Gregory, 4th edition, page 77.

So, do you mean that "all J. maples (that means all cultivars) can live long on their own roots" ?

I feel it's a bit presumptuous to say that all cultivars can thrive on their own roots. How many cultivars has your mentor tested ? I mean, I know a few dozens among the hundreds that can actually be propagated from cuttings or air-layering, and be reasonably healthy after 4 or 5 years. Some will dwindle and die. You say "all J. maples" : I don't think so. Maybe it's true for the dozen he has, some more like the ones we can find in garden centers.

It's great though that he can reproduce a few more than the common ones we can find in mainstream garden centres or nurseries. Is there a list of his trees from cuttings/air-layers available so that one can make an opinion ?
 
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clem

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See Vertrees & Gregory, 4th edition, page 77.
I know a few dozens among the hundreds that can actually be propagated from cuttings or air-layering, and be reasonably healthy after 4 or 5 years. Some will dwindle and die.

What is the reason of this ? any scientific studies ? special cultivation requierements that haven't been provided ? genetic defect ? Why after 4 or 5 years instead of 10 years ?
My2cents : If the cultivar can live when grafted on the roots of a "normal" palmatum, maybe there is no genetic failure but a weak point on the roots -> specific cultivation requirements (the same as pinus pentaphylla parviflora grafted on a black pine or from seed )


Is there a list of his trees from cuttings/air-layers available so that one can make an opinion ?
In the 2014-2015 season, there were 50 cultivars available. You can call him on Wednesday 0296444616
 
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