Japanese Maple in SA

[MAPLE]

After trolling this forum for several months i decided to start my very own progression thread on my JM.
It has been a challenge keeping the foliage in good condition until winter however i believe im getting the hang of it. I live in Cape Town, South Africa so for those that have visited understand that it gets extremely warm and windy here for LONG periods so extra care must be taken to protect these beautiful trees. We have a VERY mild winters in comparison to most fowkes on here so i have zero need for winter protection.

Im relatively new the hoby so advice is very welcome!

I purchased this tree at a nursery for approximately R1500.00 (approx 105 USD). JM's of this age or any JM in SA are hens teeth!
I acquired this in 2016 Oct, the red unknown cultivar will have its own thread at some point



Since then i have air layered off two sections that that i sold off to enthusiasts which basically paid for the tree. WIN WIN




The base is a good start however i plan on improving it. in AUG 2017 it was repotted into a grow box where i was able to cut all downward growing roots, i will attempt thread and approach grafts at the next repotting to improve the root spread. Since JM's are so rare here I have taken several cuttings which are purposely grown and root trimmed for this grafting procedure . i will also need to thread graft a new leader at this time because everything above the base will be removed as result of the three trunks fusing together causing inverse tapper. This will be a long process however i'm excited about the journey.



This will be a single trunk tree however i began to enjoy the aesthetics of multi trunk tree and decided to start designing two trees on this single stock which should also contribute to speeding up the callous on the large cut. I used the Ebihara technique to reduce the risk of die back and speed up the process. The cut was made in mid August 2018 using a small ''bonsai'' saw, Dremel for final shaping of the wound then i re-cut the edges with a grafting knife.



further up the tree is the multi trunk design that i will air layer in Oct 2019.

 

[Handsome John]

Off to a good start! Though the roots look like they'll need some work but I've seen worse. Also I hope you will keep taking more layers of that tree and dont let very much go to waste, there is some nice sized sections to the tree that would be very valuable. I like it!

 

[Bonsai Nut]

You are in the same growing zone that I am, and I struggle to keep JM alive here. A combination of alkaline, hard water and hot dry wind work against me constantly.

Check your water pH and hardness. JM likes acidic water with a pH of 5.5-6.5 (neutral is 7.0). My water is 8.0, so I use acid fertilizer on my trees. You can also use elemental sulfur.

I give my maples almost complete sun protection. They spend the entire summer in 100% shade beneath shade cloth. They only get some sun in the early spring. You may already known this, but as a rule the red leaf varieties require less sun than the green leaf ones. Watch the hot dry wind, because if they experience hot wind for even one entire day you may have significant leaf die-back.

 

[MAPLE]

Off to a good start! Though the roots look like they'll need some work but I've seen worse. Also I hope you will keep taking more layers of that tree and dont let very much go to waste, there is some nice sized sections to the tree that would be very valuable. I like it!

@Handsome John i certainly will. i plan on saving everything i can.

You are in the same growing zone that I am, and I struggle to keep JM alive here. A combination of alkaline, hard water and hot dry wind work against me constantly.

Check your water pH and hardness. JM likes acidic water with a pH of 5.5-6.5 (neutral is 7.0). My water is 8.0, so I use acid fertilizer on my trees. You can also use elemental sulfur.

I give my maples almost complete sun protection. They spend the entire summer in 100% shade beneath shade cloth. They only get some sun in the early spring. You may already known this, but as a rule the red leaf varieties require less sun than the green leaf ones. Watch the hot dry wind, because if they experience hot wind for even one entire day you may have significant leaf die-back.

@Bonsai Nut, glad to find someone who understand the struggle!

Luckily my water is VERY soft. PH of 6.2 out the tap and GH is almost unreadable (with an aquarium test)
However as a precaution i mixed aged pine bark and fertilize heavily with organic fertilizer high in humic compounds. Johannesburg has water that you describe (liquid rocks)

I have just put up my shade sail over the maples at 40% but when we start hitting the 35 degrees im going to have to up it to 60% or 80%
Thank you for the tip about the red maple, i will certainly need to move it to a more suitable spot to protect the foliage.

 

[MAPLE]

@Bonsai Nut i have read that JM's have strict dormancy requirements otherwise they will become weak and die. Since the winters here rarely hits 6 degrees (which is less than ideal from what iv read) is it possible to create JM bonsai here? and if not, how did my one survive?

I would rather not kill the tree and accept the fact it will be a garden specimen...

 

[Bonsai Nut]

My trees go dormant for a couple of months every winter, similar to most of my deciduous, even though we never see freezing temps.

I don't get much of the famed JM fall color, but they DO change colors, and eventually the leaves fall off.

 

[AlainK]

Acer buergerianum and Acer discolor should be more comfortable where you live.

Acer monspessulanum and subspecies can stand a hot summer too. Acer paxii is another option, and others too : the problem is their availability, and of course, they are not as colorful as the very many Acer palmatum cultivars.

 

[Gustavo Martins]

@Bonsai Nut i have read that JM's have strict dormancy requirements otherwise they will become weak and die. Since the winters here rarely hits 6 degrees (which is less than ideal from what iv read) is it possible to create JM bonsai here? and if not, how did my one survive?

I would rather not kill the tree and accept the fact it will be a garden specimen...

I have one JM for the last 3 years and tridents. So far so good. I’m in USDA hardiness zone 11

 

[MAPLE]

Acer buergerianum and Acer discolor should be more comfortable where you live.

Acer monspessulanum and subspecies can stand a hot summer too. Acer paxii is another option, and others too : the problem is their availability, and of course, they are not as colorful as the very many Acer palmatum cultivars.

This would make sense because i see huge chinese maples in old town around the city however no Palmatums.

My trees go dormant for a couple of months every winter, similar to most of my deciduous, even though we never see freezing temps.

I don't get much of the famed JM fall color, but they DO change colors, and eventually the leaves fall off.

Good to know, so freeing temps is what brings on vivid fall color?

 

[MAPLE]

Update.

Autumn has arrived and it's time to see how my wedge cut is healing. I was surprised by the amount of callous i got.
I estimate this cut should be healed over in three or more seasons.

Before After



Im planning on several root grafts and one thread graft which will be the new trunk in late winter before bud swell which is usually the start of August.

This will be my fist grafting attempt/s so any advice is welcome!

i do have some questions:

1. Is there preferred size for root grafting approach or thread?
2. Should the approach graft union be above soil level?
3. If you are using a finger thick rotted cutting, can you carve away the contact side to allow for a bend to get the graft in the optimal position?

Examples below



Larger cutting.

 

[Johnnyd]

Update.

Autumn has arrived and it's time to see how my wedge cut is healing. I was surprised by the amount of callous i got.
I estimate this cut should be healed over in three or more seasons.

Before After
View attachment 236130 View attachment 236125
View attachment 236126

Im planning on several root grafts and one thread graft which will be the new trunk in late winter before bud swell which is usually the start of August.

This will be my fist grafting attempt/s so any advice is welcome!

i do have some questions:

1. Is there preferred size for root grafting approach or thread?
2. Should the approach graft union be above soil level?
3. If you are using a finger thick rotted cutting, can you carve away the contact side to allow for a bend to get the graft in the optimal position?

Examples below

View attachment 236127
View attachment 236128
View attachment 236129Larger cutting.

I like your Ebihara notch. I've been using this quite a bit this year on some nursery stock maples. Your maple looks like it is healing nicely!
This year I tried both methods for root grafts ( approach and thread). Both below soil level. I found a significantly better growth on the thread graft method. I found step by step instructions in the resource section of the site.
I'm not as experienced with bonsai so I'm hoping someone else can help you with your questions pertaining to best practices.
If you have time check this thread. The diagram was very helpful!
" Grafting 101" by MarkyScott on page 6. Post# 113.

 

[Shibui]

1. Is there preferred size for root grafting approach or thread?
2. Should the approach graft union be above soil level?
3. If you are using a finger thick rotted cutting, can you carve away the contact side to allow for a bend to get the graft in the optimal position?

No specified size for approach grafts. larger will give more advanced roots but also leaves a larger scar when the top is removed after. I have been disappointed at how slowly the scars from approach grafts heal up, even when sealed. Smaller seedlings grafted leave smaller scars but also smaller roots which can take quite a few years to thicken as the tree is relying on existing roots so little sap flow goes into the new roots for a few years after grafting.

Graft union will work wherever you make it. You can even graft onto roots if necessary. Obviously you need to put then so the roots are at the desired level. Grafts at soil level are easier to disguise than higher grafts which will leave visible scars on the trunk.

Not sure what Q 3 is about? Bark needs to be removed from both seedling and tree to get a quick graft. Cambium contact is the key to getting the graft to join. You can carve the seedling to make it fit but try to get good cambium contact in the joint if possible. The L shaped seedlings or cuttings like your 'larger cutting' are best for approach grafts. Approach graft is used because there is no real need for super accuracy. both parts stay alive on their own roots and, eventually (hope) the healing cambium will touch and unite.
Not all of my approach root grafts have worked. Some take a couple of years to grow enough to unite. Poorly secured seedlings will be pushed away as the main tree heals. Need to be well secured to the tree to force the join to graft. It is hard to tie tightly down low so most use nails to hold the seedling in place. Thin pins do not seem to be enough. Seedling may need to be drilled for nails to prevent splitting. Liquid sealer can get into the joint and prevent cambium from uniting. Thicker paste seems to work better for me.

 

[MAPLE]

No specified size for approach grafts. larger will give more advanced roots but also leaves a larger scar when the top is removed after. I have been disappointed at how slowly the scars from approach grafts heal up, even when sealed. Smaller seedlings grafted leave smaller scars but also smaller roots which can take quite a few years to thicken as the tree is relying on existing roots so little sap flow goes into the new roots for a few years after grafting.

Graft union will work wherever you make it. You can even graft onto roots if necessary. Obviously you need to put then so the roots are at the desired level. Grafts at soil level are easier to disguise than higher grafts which will leave visible scars on the trunk.

Not sure what Q 3 is about? Bark needs to be removed from both seedling and tree to get a quick graft. Cambium contact is the key to getting the graft to join. You can carve the seedling to make it fit but try to get good cambium contact in the joint if possible. The L shaped seedlings or cuttings like your 'larger cutting' are best for approach grafts. Approach graft is used because there is no real need for super accuracy. both parts stay alive on their own roots and, eventually (hope) the healing cambium will touch and unite.
Not all of my approach root grafts have worked. Some take a couple of years to grow enough to unite. Poorly secured seedlings will be pushed away as the main tree heals. Need to be well secured to the tree to force the join to graft. It is hard to tie tightly down low so most use nails to hold the seedling in place. Thin pins do not seem to be enough. Seedling may need to be drilled for nails to prevent splitting. Liquid sealer can get into the joint and prevent cambium from uniting. Thicker paste seems to work better for me.

Could you notch the root graft for faster callusing before completely removing it?

Thanks for the replies, everyone!

 

[Shibui]

Could you notch the root graft for faster callusing before completely removing it?

Notch the root graft? How?

 

[MAPLE]

Reporting season is here!

I decided to repot this maple and reduce the roots as far as im comfortable. I also decided to make a dryer soil mix with 50-20-20-10 leca, pine bark, Canadian peat, and akadama. I had all intention to add root grafts but I ran out of time. I thread grafted a new leader which I will cut back to in a few years when it gained enough size.

Some photos of the surgery.











This tree produced some great autumn color all things considered. I didn't manage to get a picture when the color ''peaked'' but I doubt it was much better than this before leaf drop.