Japanese Maple Input........

[KDuffLive]

Hey All,

I need some advice. My local nursery has a good deal right now on Japanese maples in my opinion. They have just the standard, Acer palmatum. The trees seem like they have been sitting there awhile. In height they range from 3-6 feet tall and the trunks are all about 1.25-1.75 thick. They all look healthy but most of them are overgrown due to sitting. My question is, if i pick one up, how tolerant are these to being cut back? I'm currently at work and going there after and was just seeing if anyone had any input as far as features to look for or if a bushier tree is better than not, anything really would be appreciated. Whatever one i end up getting, i'll be definitely be putting up here for input or guidance. I appreciate it everyone.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Most important is good surface roots then base girth, taper, and movement. As far as nursery stock, the best you'll find usually is girth of the base/trunk and then some branch you can cut to continue as part of the trunk. Most of the tree should be tossed so height does not matter. Standard A. palmatum is not a bad thing. Grows well and airlayer well. You'll likely need to airlayer. You should learn how to airlayer, properly make a chop, when to do the work, make a plan.

 

[Deleted member 21616]

Most important is good surface roots then base girth, taper, and movement

100% agree.

Below is an ex-"nursery tree". The base is standard Acer Palmatum. See the wound in the third photo? The trunk of that base used to be 8-10 feet high. See the new leader? That is Kashima that was grafted on. So to answer your question - yes, nursery trees can be cut back, and it's safest to cut back to an existing branch. You could use a branch from the tree, but in this case a branch was grafted in a desirable location. if you want to grow something different from whatever the root stock happens to be, thread grafting your desired cultivar a year or two before the 'chop' is a good option in my view. It's also a great way to start a bonsai with cultivars that are difficult to propagate, such as higasayama or aka shigitatsu sawa! (@0soyoung this is the kind of graft i was talking about last time. If all goes well, the graft line will never show!)

I bought this tree because the nebari showed good promise. 99% of nursery trees do not have interesting bases worth investing any time into. In that case, the best thing to do is air layer the trunk, and build your own nebari from scratch.

 

[KDuffLive]

I really appreciate your guys input. This is what I came home with. What do you think? Should I just leave it be until spring or is there anything I can do to it now?

 

[Shibui]

At least it does not come straight out of the ground like a telephone pole.... but that's about all it has going for it IMHO
JM will usually sprout new buds on bare wood but that's not 100%. Usually you will get a good response. Sometimes part of the trunk will die below the cut. Occasionally it won't bud at all. all you can do is make the cut and cross fingers (short term plan with long followup to develop a tree).
Alternatives are: make some layers and try to get some well shaped trees with good roots systems (medium - long term plan); graft some shoots on below the planned cut to nurture the stump and have better results (long term plan)

My problem with landscape plants is that while it seems you are saving time by buying a thicker trunk it may take as long or longer to develop a bonsai from such stock. Growing your own stock may seem a long term project but having control can actually save time and disappointment in the longer term. Paying for decent stock may cost more but is the best way to save time and achieve a good outcome.

 

[LanceMac10]

....A good thread over at IBC. Not sure, but might have to sign up, but still plenty of good stuff over there.....sans people, of course.....

JAPANESE MAPLE - Giant Japanese maple project

JAPANESE MAPLE This maple was part of my garden for many years untill i decide a few months ago to digg it up and start a new project. (acer palmatum atropurpur

ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com

 

[Jzack605]

I reckon an air layer can be done now? Get two trees potentially.

 

[LanceMac10]

This mine? Plant in the yard late August and use for propagation. Roots will be,(most likely) just a balled-up fist. Shape of the container just directs downward growth pulling down instead of growing out, dragging the trunk with it.

In Michigan, 90% chance it makes it, go for it!

 

[sorce]

Yup....

Layer it .

Radialayer™ a season saver.

Nutters, You may have noticed I almost always jump to recommending airlayers. I don't think I will ever lose my fascination with the process. In attempts to perfect it, I have worked out some tweaks so it is time to share my method. I don't understand haphazardly throwing long...

www.bonsainut.com

Sorce

 

[Pitoon]

I really appreciate your guys input. This is what I came home with. What do you think? Should I just leave it be until spring or is there anything I can do to it now?

I see 100 air layers there!!!

 

[KDuffLive]

Yup....

Layer it .

Radialayer™ a season saver.

Nutters, You may have noticed I almost always jump to recommending airlayers. I don't think I will ever lose my fascination with the process. In attempts to perfect it, I have worked out some tweaks so it is time to share my method. I don't understand haphazardly throwing long...

www.bonsainut.com

Sorce

Thank you sir! I appreciate it.

 

[KDuffLive]

So should I attempt to air layer it now or should I just leave it as it is until the spring?

 

[Pitoon]

So should I attempt to air layer it now or should I just leave it as it is until the spring?

If you are going to air layer, you need to do it ASAP. It will take a couple weeks to produce the new roots. You need enough time after you separate it and plant it in it's own pot for the roots to become established before winter. Not sure what your winters look like but for my area July is make or brake month for most air layers and semi-hardwood cuttings.