japanese maples

BK6

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what type of soil do i wanna plant some japanese maples in, pre bonsai, that i plan to let grow for a few years?

can they be planted in the ground in ohio?

do they need to be potted and stored in shed for winter after they go dormant?

im new to this as you can tell, but i have a japanese maple tree on the way, about 18 inches tall.

Thanks in advance, Bryan Six
 

Shibui

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I have no idea what Ohio winter will be like so hope someone else can contribute re AP hardiness outdoors. Generally look round your neighborhood to see if any Japanese maples are growing in gardens. If they grow in gardens they will grow in the ground. If you can't see any that indicates they don't survive winter (or summer?) so plan on pots.
I use the same soil in grow pots and in bonsai pots - saves stocking different types and managing watering. Good bonsai soil only becomes important when we move to smaller, shallow pots so use any good potting soil for grow pots and adjust watering to suit.

Not every tree that is started turn out to b a show stopper. I'd always start with a few to allow for some that don't grow as expected.
 

BK6

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I have no idea what Ohio winter will be like so hope someone else can contribute re AP hardiness outdoors. Generally look round your neighborhood to see if any Japanese maples are growing in gardens. If they grow in gardens they will grow in the ground. If you can't see any that indicates they don't survive winter (or summer?) so plan on pots.
I use the same soil in grow pots and in bonsai pots - saves stocking different types and managing watering. Good bonsai soil only becomes important when we move to smaller, shallow pots so use any good potting soil for grow pots and adjust watering to suit.

Not every tree that is started turn out to b a show stopper. I'd always start with a few to allow for some that don't grow as expected.
 

Paradox

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Ohio is mostly zone 6a and most Japanese maples are fine in zones 5-7 so you should be ok
 

BK6

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Thanks for the great info shibui. id feel better keeping this girl healthy through next summer. eventually i wanna get a couple japanese reds, but ive only been doing this since spring and started with portulicaria afra and a ginseng ficus, or "mallsai". common term here im learning, lol. this was just to get a taste of what its like to be commited to some trees. granted theyre succelents and a ficus, but i just wanted to know if i would enjoy the process. Now ive developed a real problem with the my trees lol. i think im already driving my wife nuts, but hey she just spent 200 bucks on three pink princess philodendrons. So were staying even by my tally.

ill update when she arrives and i get her potted.
 

Ben in Kzoo

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Only watch out I’d have for you are rabbits and mice
If you keep your tree out, you will need to protect it
Personally I put everything in a shed to avoid that problem
Cheers
 

jimib

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Where in Ohio? I’m just SE of Columbus. I have 3 growing in my yard that are all over 15 years old and do quite well. I only have 1 as a bonsai, an arakawa, it goes in my garage during the winter.
 

BK6

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Where in Ohio? I’m just SE of Columbus. I have 3 growing in my yard that are all over 15 years old and do quite well. I only have 1 as a bonsai, an arakawa, it goes in my garage during the winter.
im from Athens, but live in gallia now
 

penumbra

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How large /old are your maples? Are they cultivars or seedlings?
 

penumbra

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Lets see it when you have it. It is fruitless to put the cart before the horse.
Also, please put your location in your profile.
 
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Underdog

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I have them in the ground and pots. The potted ones I just set on the ground in a mulch bed along the North foundation of the house.
I'm a couple hours north of you.
What zone it this tree coming from? That can make a difference.
If it's a sapling, now is a perfect time to plant it in the ground to gain some trunk as well as protect it for winter.
Welcome.
 

BK6

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BTW, welcome.

I have them in the ground and pots. The potted ones I just set on the ground in a mulch bed along the North foundation of the house.
I'm a couple hours north of you.
What zone it this tree coming from? That can make a difference.
If it's a sapling, now is a perfect time to plant it in the ground to gain some trunk as well as protect it for winter.
Welcome.
wow, didnt realize there were so many bonsai guys near me. this place is awesome. she is a sapling sobthe ground it is.

any precautions, winter protection, etc that i should know about.
 

BK6

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I have them in the ground and pots. The potted ones I just set on the ground in a mulch bed along the North foundation of the house.
I'm a couple hours north of you.
What zone it this tree coming from? That can make a difference.
If it's a sapling, now is a perfect time to plant it in the ground to gain some trunk as well as protect it for winter.
Welcome.
the tree. well sapling is coming out of georgia and has been in a pot
 

AlainK

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What zone it this tree coming from? That can make a difference.

Right : from what I know (imagine?) the climate in Georgia is much milder than in Ohio.

And very often, when a tree is moved from one place to another, hundreds of miles away, it takes some time to adapt to its new location.

If it's a sapling, now is a perfect time to plant it in the ground to gain some trunk as well as protect it for winter.

Maybe. I don't know about the difference in climates between Ohio and Georgia, you may be right. But it depends on the rootball : if it needs to be untangled, or even pruned a bit, you should be very careful and make sure the roots in the soil don't stay frozen for weeks...

That's what I would do here, but it's still about 28°C (82 F) and will stay something like 11-14 (52-57) at night and 21-24 (70-75)during the day in the coming weeks, with rain at last, after a looong period of drought and heat.

Here, I think maples won't lose their leaves until late October/early November. If it's the same where you live, it should be OK if you don't mess up too much with the roots...
 

BK6

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Right : from what I know (imagine?) the climate in Georgia is much milder than in Ohio.

And very often, when a tree is moved from one place to another, hundreds of miles away, it takes some time to adapt to its new location.



Maybe. I don't know about the difference in climates between Ohio and Georgia, you may be right. But it depends on the rootball : if it needs to be untangled, or even pruned a bit, you should be very careful and make sure the roots in the soil don't stay frozen for weeks...

That's what I would do here, but it's still about 28°C (82 F) and will stay something like 11-14 (52-57) at night and 21-24 (70-75)during the day in the coming weeks, with rain at last, after a looong period of drought and heat.

Here, I think maples won't lose their leaves until late October/early November. If it's the same where you live, it should be OK if you don't mess up too much with the roots...
what about just leaving her in the pot she is in until early spring? in the barn or something? will it be ok without light? if its dormant it should be right?
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Once a tree drops its leaves in autumn, it can be stored in a dark place, it does not need light, as there is no significant photosynthesis going on. I store my tender trees in a dark, underground well house. No lights, just a fan for air movement. Being 5 feet below the surface, with a concrete slab roof, the temperature stays at or above freezing all winter.

But the key is, no leaves, and temperatures below 40 F or 4 C and there will be no significant photosynthesis. So no light needed. If or when your winter storage area heats up to temps warmer than 40 F or 4 C, the metabolism of the trees, maples are notoriously quick to respond, the metabolism will pick up and they will start growing. I have had trees start growing in the dark with elongated weak growth due to lack of light. The cause was the temperature of the well house had risen above 40 F. So if the ground warms early, this can be a problem. But normally there is only a week or two where I am shuffling plants in and out to avoid night time frosts and freezes.

Once a plant starts growing it looses its cold tolerance and late frosts and freezes can damage the tree. This is why I personally consider storing a tree for the winter simply by setting it on the ground outdoors for the winter superior to putting in a shed or well house or some structure. Just set on the ground you are less likely to get early growth before the last hard freeze.
 

Ben in Kzoo

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Lots of good stuff here
I am in MI, and I have a lot of rabbits, mice, and other stuff I swear at often
In the summer, all my trees are elevated to avoid a free of charge pruning
I couldn’t let me trees on the ground in the winter. All the elms and maples that grow freely in my yard are reduced to sticks
For the winter, I put in a shed with a space heater that turns on below 34 and turns off above 36 (happy to detail my setup)
it temps outside go above 36, I open the door for the day

Some trees (Pines), I would take out earlier than deciduous
Bjorn had put together the actual temp that would hurt the tree per species, I go by that

Cheers
 
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