JBP candles stalled opening

[ochong]

Curious if anyone has any thoughts on why one of JBP’s candles stalled and didn’t open this spring. It’s just now slowly opening out the needles. As you can see, some of the prior year needles also browned earlier in the year.

I’ve included a picture of one of the other JBP that receives identical conditions and care.

They’re in a primarily DE with a small amount of pine bark mixed in.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

With my JRP it's usually because of a damaged root system. No double flushes to be expected that year; roll with what you got, because its weak.

I'd expect JBP to behave the same.

 

[ochong]

Makes sense. For a little while I thought it was going to die, but kept up the same care routine. Fingers crossed the roots recover and it regains strength.

 

[Paradox]

The brown needles could also be a fungus infection. MIght want to spray it with fungicidide.

Have you been fertilizing these trees?

 

[sorce]

DE or perlite?

Cuz that's some privileged DE if it is!

If current care is the same, it's likely whatever happened before the problem.

What happened before?

Too dry too.

The healthy one probably made it into the ground already negating the need for pot water.

Sorce

 

[ochong]

My four JBPs were overwintered nestled in to much within a plastic garden shed where I insulated the walls w/ 2" rigid foam board. It was my first winter with them so frequency of watering was definitely a bit of an unknown to me as I knew I didn't want them to sit with wet feet, but also didn't want them to desiccate. If anyone has any tips on approaching winter watering that would be helpful.

@Paradox I'll consider spraying with a fungicide. Would copper fungicide be appropriate? They have been fertilized earlier this year with some osmocote and they get approximately every other week watering with liquid fertilizer. I know I could up the amount of fertilizer i'm providing though.

@sorce Whoops, wasn't thinking when I typed up the substrate composition - it's something like 45% DE, 45% pumice, 10% pine bark. As for watering, they are getting watered twice a day at this time of year. I took those pictures right before watering in the morning. They do sit in full sun, essentially 7:30AM - 5:00PM currently. I do hope to set up an automated system in the near future as I'm starting to head back in to the office. Do you feel I need to be watering more than twice a day?

 

[sorce]

Do you feel I need to be watering more than twice a day

Probably not.

Definitely shouldn't spray fungicide on such a slight "maybe". It's a waste of time money and effort at best, an introduction of the death spiral at worst. Not the trees death spiral, everything surrounding it.

Sorce

 

[LanceMac10]

Down in Massachusetts, huh? I'll be watching and maybe you can give me some pointers!

Have fun with your Pinus!

 

[Paradox]

@Paradox I'll consider spraying with a fungicide. Would copper fungicide be appropriate? They have been fertilized earlier this year with some osmocote and they get approximately every other week watering with liquid fertilizer. I know I could up the amount of fertilizer i'm providing though.

Your fertilizing is fine, you dont need to be doing more than what you stated.

Copper fungicide is fine. However, since you live in Southern New England, where we can have a lot of humidity in the summer, you would do well to start a regular regimen of fungus treatments as a preventative starting in May and probably until the end of September. For most fungus, by the time you see it manifest its symptoms in your trees, its too late. Some fungus infect the needles one full year before youll even see it. The only way to prevent it is preventative spraying as I stated. I would rotate between a copper based fungicide and something like Daconil at least once a month starting in May.

 

[Dav4]

My four JBPs were overwintered nestled in to much within a plastic garden shed where I insulated the walls w/ 2" rigid foam board. It was my first winter with them so frequency of watering was definitely a bit of an unknown to me as I knew I didn't want them to sit with wet feet, but also didn't want them to desiccate. If anyone has any tips on approaching winter watering that would be helpful.

Look for a location where the trees will get cold and stay cold- read that as frozen- but are out of the winter sun and wind. Mulching in along the north side of your house is one place to consider. There's nothing wrong with keeping them in an outbuilding, but you've still got to keep them cold and dormant into early spring at the earliest... and you've already figured out what might happen if they dry out a bit.