JBP Christmas present #3

Daniel.K

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My lovely GF gave me a small pine for this Christmas so I had a go and this is the result.
Nice movement with lots of good branches. After it will establish a little bit, ill work on the jin :)
Merry Christmas to all. ;)
 

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Giga

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I see potential-though I think I would have removed the first left branch and just cleaned up that branch you jinned. Then plant it in the ground for a couple seasons and use a couple sacrifice branches.
 

Adair M

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Not a bad start, at all! Middle of the summer, is it? You decandled? You ought to get a new flush of growth.

There are obvious wiring errors, but I like your styling.

That branch you jinned needs to be carved down. It's too thick. It's thicker than any other branch on the tree.

Giga, that branch would be too thick to use as a keeper. See how the lower branches are thinner? A thick upper branch throws all the perspective off.
 

Daniel.K

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thank you for comments, I know this first wiring has few glitches here and there but its just first shaping, in 3-4 months i will have to rewire as other 2 pines from the August I styled as they grow quite fast.
As Adam mentioned, thick branch was too much of the imbalance so I decided to jin it, when it dries out a bit more and it will be definitely thinned down.
Other breaches are left and will start developing the pads.
Unfortunately can't keep it in the ground but all 3 pines will stay in the large pots till next year and in the spring they will get reported to a training pots.
One thing Im not sure if Im to keep decandling or let them grow to thicken the branches and cut them later?
 

edprocoat

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Maybe it's just me but all I see is the reverse taper at the whorl of branches where you killed the branch on the left at, well that and the whorl of branches above that which will develop reverse taper too if left alone. It looks like you will either have a poor trunked tree or a tree with a large scar. To correct it you will have to carve out that lower massive whorl and reverse taper that is already larger than the trunk below, which is going to take forever to heal over. It would have to be quicker to just hack that mess off below the reverse taper and start from there, you would have to save 5 years of corrections cutting development time in half, getting a decent transition from that branch into a new apex in maybe 5 - 7 years.

ed
 

Daniel.K

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edprocoat: I know what you mean but its just a poor lighting and back branch at the spot.
Taper is nice and although trunk could be a little bigger in the lower part considering the tree, no other parts are wider or close and it is slimmer as it goes up. That was also one of the reason of the thick branch (jin) as with the back branch it would just create issues in the future.
It seems a bit wider with nice root flare just under the soil line but ill find out more when i will repot the pine as I didn't want to poke too deep and disturb the root system too much.
 

edprocoat

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edprocoat: I know what you mean but its just a poor lighting and back branch at the spot.
Taper is nice and although trunk could be a little bigger in the lower part considering the tree, no other parts are wider or close and it is slimmer as it goes up. That was also one of the reason of the thick branch (jin) as with the back branch it would just create issues in the future.
It seems a bit wider with nice root flare just under the soil line but ill find out more when i will repot the pine as I didn't want to poke too deep and disturb the root system too much.

Ok Daniel, I know that pics can be deceiving. Keep an eye on that whorl area as things like bar branches (branches growing opposite each other) and whorls (several branches growing out the same general area on a trunk) cause the trunk to thicken leaving a reverse taper which is hard to correct. From the pics it looks as if the trunk is already thicker at the lower whorl but I can not see it in person as you can. You may even try a tourniquet at the soil line to thicken the trunk base.

ed
 

Paradox

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Am I the only one that thinks that an awful lot of foliage was removed from this tree?
 

Daniel.K

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Edprocoat: I know what you mean. That are had around 4-5 branches growing at the same spot so I removed the stronger ones, biggest one was left as a jin and remaining one was left as a back branch. Maybe I will carve it a bit more as I didn't wanna dig into the tree too much till it gets established again as the area of 3 branches at the same spot left a small swelling which can be easily removed with concave cutter.

btw TURNIQUET method. I have a small grafted pine that developed reversed taper (at the graft area) but i was told, tourniquet won't work with the pines...

Paradox: Yes I did but pines being in the direct sunlight (as long as I won't touch the roots) will pick up in no time ;) (with the hot summer in OZ I'm not worried at all, if it was winter time, thats different story)
 

Giga

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Not a bad start, at all! Middle of the summer, is it? You decandled? You ought to get a new flush of growth.

There are obvious wiring errors, but I like your styling.

That branch you jinned needs to be carved down. It's too thick. It's thicker than any other branch on the tree.

Giga, that branch would be too thick to use as a keeper. See how the lower branches are thinner? A thick upper branch throws all the perspective off.

Blah didn't see that didn't have my glasses on again.
 

edprocoat

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Edprocoat: I know what you mean. That are had around 4-5 branches growing at the same spot so I removed the stronger ones, biggest one was left as a jin and remaining one was left as a back branch. Maybe I will carve it a bit more as I didn't wanna dig into the tree too much till it gets established again as the area of 3 branches at the same spot left a small swelling which can be easily removed with concave cutter.

btw TURNIQUET method. I have a small grafted pine that developed reversed taper (at the graft area) but i was told, tourniquet won't work with the pines...

Paradox: Yes I did but pines being in the direct sunlight (as long as I won't touch the roots) will pick up in no time ;) (with the hot summer in OZ I'm not worried at all, if it was winter time, thats different story)

Daniel whomever told you a tourniquet does not work with a pine was wrong. It works quicker with ficus and elms but is used on many pines grown commercially in Asian markets. There was a thread here with a link showing hundreds of pines grown for commercial sales using a tourniquet that they actually let the wire grow into the tree permanently leaving it there. I an sure you could use the search function here and find it or try a Bing or Goofle net search.

ed
 

Brian Van Fleet

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The problems with the shortcut methods; tourniquets included, are the unintended consequences. Yes, applying a tourniquet will cause some swelling above and below it, but it also creates a divot at the application site, which will be unnatural and require another step to correct. The attached (hopefully)image shows the effects of a wire applied to stabilize the sacrifice branch on a JBP in my garden. I doubt you want the base of your bonsai to have this appearance.

Your best courses of action are to carve away the appearance of reverse taper, obscure the area with some foliage, or let an unneeded shoot from the lower left branch escape, thicken, and thereby thicken the trunk.

Adair has good pines and sound education on the matter; he has given you some good advice on the rest. Have fun!
 

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