JBP Pick a Front

Pick your favorite front from the six options.

  • Front 1

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • Front 2

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Front 3

    Votes: 1 5.9%
  • Front 4

    Votes: 5 29.4%
  • Front 5

    Votes: 8 47.1%
  • Front 6

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    17
  • Poll closed .

River's Edge

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Here is a JBP that is under development. Pick your favorite front from the six choices below.
 

Attachments

  • Front 2.jpg
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  • Front 3.jpg
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  • Front 4.jpg
    Front 4.jpg
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  • Front 5.jpg
    Front 5.jpg
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  • Front 6.jpg
    Front 6.jpg
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  • Front 1.jpg
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namnhi

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A for the effort and creativity.
 

sparklemotion

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My favorite is 3.

1, 2, 4, and 5 remind me a little bit too much of a significant figure in one of my other hobbies, who when pictured from the wrong angle, makes me ask questions about pregnant transgender cyborgs that the lore won't answer.

http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Belisarius_Cawl

Archmagos_Dominus_Belisarius_Cawl.jpg maxresdefault.jpg cawl-complete-duncan.jpg TotI_BelisariusBld23.jpg

But for some reason, trees trigger strong pareidolia responses to my eyes, and to be fair, the raffia is quite the focal point right now. So, grain of salt.
 

River's Edge

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My favorite is 3.

1, 2, 4, and 5 remind me a little bit too much of a significant figure in one of my other hobbies, who when pictured from the wrong angle, makes me ask questions about pregnant transgender cyborgs that the lore won't answer.

http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Belisarius_Cawl

View attachment 170095 View attachment 170096 View attachment 170097 View attachment 170098

But for some reason, trees trigger strong pareidolia responses to my eyes, and to be fair, the raffia is quite the focal point right now. So, grain of salt.
Not to mention the rebar, block of wood, wire tightener and overall sea horse image:). Oh i forgot you need to ignore the stubs that have yet to be dealt with and the myriad of other details:p
 

jeanluc83

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Regardless of the front, I think you are going to need to do some grafting. It is a nice tree but there is no real movement or taper above the "S". I would graft right above the "S" then chop back to that point. The top is just to straight especially when compared to the lower part.
 

Dav4

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Regardless of the front, I think you are going to need to do some grafting. It is a nice tree but there is no real movement or taper above the "S". I would graft right above the "S" then chop back to that point. The top is just to straight especially when compared to the lower part.
Or grow it out into a larger tree... there was a decent trunk line in the "before" picture, with a branch in the right place to be grown on for another section of trunk... that would have been my move.
 

Adair M

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Upper section before it turns down was dead straight, the turn below it on the main trunk was much more open so it stuck out to the side!
Frank, I’m not sure what you are trying to accomplish with all that. Of course, I don’t have the tree in front of me, so it’s hard to visualize it, but the part that bothers me is the straight section, not the curvy section.

My first plan would have been to place several grafts all along the curvy base, and chop all the straight part off.

If you want to use the whole tree, then try to induce bends in the top part using rebar and a Jackie. Did you see what Paul Kellum did with his tall JBP at Boon’s? He placed rebar vertically, secured it to the tree below where he wanted to bend, placed a block of wood between the rebar and tree, then used Jackie to tighten the trunk above the block and pull it towards the rebar. Secure with wire. A week later, tighten it more. And the next week, tighten more... and so on. No raffia needed.

Good luck with it!
 

Adair M

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Based on all the rebar and turnbuckles and his big bend lower down, I assume he is planning on bending it.
And upon reviewing the pictures, I did see one graft on the trunk. Much higher than where I would have grafted it, but a graft nonetheless.
 

River's Edge

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Regardless of the front, I think you are going to need to do some grafting. It is a nice tree but there is no real movement or taper above the "S". I would graft right above the "S" then chop back to that point. The top is just to straight especially when compared to the lower part.
That is definately my fall back option should all other ideas fizzle;). Well worded you have clearly identified the major issue.
 

River's Edge

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Regardless of the front, I think you are going to need to do some grafting. It is a nice tree but there is no real movement or taper above the "S". I would graft right above the "S" then chop back to that point. The top is just to straight especially when compared to the lower part.
Option 7 seems to be gaining favour, i did graft one scion this last season that took nicely right about a spot that i felt would benefit from a bend later.
 

River's Edge

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Frank, I’m not sure what you are trying to accomplish with all that. Of course, I don’t have the tree in front of me, so it’s hard to visualize it, but the part that bothers me is the straight section, not the curvy section.

My first plan would have been to place several grafts all along the curvy base, and chop all the straight part off.

If you want to use the whole tree, then try to induce bends in the top part using rebar and a Jackie. Did you see what Paul Kellum did with his tall JBP at Boon’s? He placed rebar vertically, secured it to the tree below where he wanted to bend, placed a block of wood between the rebar and tree, then used Jackie to tighten the trunk above the block and pull it towards the rebar. Secure with wire. A week later, tighten it more. And the next week, tighten more... and so on. No raffia needed.

Good luck with it!
Thanks Adair. Yes i did see the technique paul used. I have used it before and it is very effective, particularily on a longer section of trunk that can be isolated from twisting or changing the other trunk sections. To help put it all in perspective, the tree is 16 inches tall overall. The "Straight Section" is only 4 inches long. The trunk in the straight section is 1 1/2 inches in diameter and the base is three inches in diameter just above the flare. the curvy section ends at the 11 inch height overall. Although it is difficult to see in the picture, the bends induced below has created some movement with a twist to the " straight section". I wired and jacked the " snout section to the side and back creating a twist and bend to the lower straight section".The scion graft was placed at the point where it would appear to bend slightly and to provide an option on that side at that level. I deliberately chose a double scion to create two options. Thus i could keep both, or use the best one dependant on the front chosen.

In the end i may choose to graft the curvy base and chop. That would result in approximately a 12 inch tree overall with a three inch base.
 
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