jbp rookie cascade

jcrossett

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Remember me if you do and let me know trying to find more good books also have a book called bonsia workshop.
 

jcrossett

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OK so I wrapped tree and bent it down. But have a problem my dumb ass lawn care personnel decided to weed eat the tip of my tree. What is the best way to help it. :(
 

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Adair M

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Oh, my!

Kinda like cutting crown molding with a chainsaw!

Let it alone, see what happens...
 

Eric Schrader

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Would it take 20 years to get a 3.5" trunk for JBP? I wish to put mine in the ground and then, fertilize super heavily.
Thanks

You know, it very well might.

I was just telling a friend that I think that the idea of growing large-size bonsai from seed in containers is something that takes an entire lifetime. The largest of my 2006 batch of seedlings has not much more than a 2" trunk. They've been container grown the entire time. If I had wanted a larger tree perhaps I should have ground grown some of them, or placed to colanders on the ground to allow the roots to escape.

There's this whole mythology around bark quality in container grown trees versus ground grown ones but it seems like getting the trunk to size in a reasonable amount of time trumps the bark quality concerns. I think you could have a 3.5" trunk it 10 years with 3-4 years initially in containers and then 6-7 years in the ground. The problem is that once in the ground you need to pay close attention to balance. BVF has some that are receiving the proper attention but even really good growers can have the trees get away from them.

Check out this field of JBP and Cedar at Jim Gremel's place (That's Jonas contemplating the work needed):

15195659635_346f35dcc8_c.jpg


These trees are less than 10 years old and they have 3" or 4" trunks in many cases. The branching has been left a bit too unmanaged though so he's got a long road ahead of him to make good pine bonsai.
 

jcrossett

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OK wrapped with raffia and wired the tree up. Looking for some critiquing. Honestly think this is a great job for a first. Also I read that the wire should be one 1/3 the with or the branch/ trunk. This is 3 mm wire and had to double it up cause it wouldn't hold it very well. Could this be due to a cheap wire? This is exactly what I bought. http://m.ebay.com/itm/251454603799?nav=SEARCH thanks.
 

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Adair M

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You used aluminum wire. Not nearly as strong as copper.

There's tons of threads on aluminum vs copper.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Some thoughts on the wiring:

  • Good job on applying the wire, it is evenly spaced, and without gaps between it and the branches.
  • The wire used is too thin. If you're using Al, straighten out a 6" length, and lightly press it on the intended branch. If the branch moves, it's the right size. If the wire bends, move up a size.
  • Copper is stronger, but Al is easier if you're new to wiring. If you're committed to pines, get comfortable with copper.
  • Plan your "route" so the coils land on the back side of a branch junction. From above, if a branch emerges from the right side of the trunk, a coil should be on the left. This allows you to apply a bend to the trunk which forces that branch to the outside of a curve.
  • Make sure you add movement in every direction..up, down, left, right, so the trunk/branch has movement from any side presented. From the top, your pine has no movement. Don't be afraid to twist branches as well...just be sure you apply wire in the direction of the intended twist so it doesn't loosen in the process.
  • With pines, wire all the way out to the tips, then turn the buds up. This requires patience and a chopstick to move needles out of the way. Do not pin down needles with wire.
 

Adair M

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Excellent, detailed advice from BVF.

About raffia, if you don't plan on a severe bend, you don't need it. It covers dormant buds. Which may pop on old wood once they're exposed to the sun.
 
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