JM Multi Trunk - Air Layers

Drew

Shohin
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So these are the air layers I did on this tree which I showed on another thread. I took off 6 in total in April 2015. I layered them using sphagnum moss and had trouble untangling the roots so I planted them with some of the moss still attached (see the last two pics):

IMG_4279.JPG IMG_3555.jpg IMG_3585.jpg IMG_4295.JPG IMG_3586.jpg IMG_3587.jpg
cont.......
 

Drew

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Once all potted up April 2014:
IMG_4298.JPG

They grew really well from then on and here they are, picture taken today:
IMG_5440.JPG

The plan is to thicken them up but before I put them in the ground I would like to sort the roots out for a season or two using the screw and board method similar to this (which sadly died):
IMG_4457.jpg

My question is how much root can you safely take off these layers ? I know JM can handle root reduction well but what percentage can you successfully remove on a 1 y.o layer?
Any advice/comments welcome as always.

Drew
 

sorce

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Nice growth!

Seems you have enough to find out yourself.....

If it was me....a I'd go easy on the nicest one, and hard on the worst one.

Meet in the middle.

Sorce
 

Dav4

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I've learned the hard way, at least with semi dwarf cultivars like shishishigira, that aggressive root work within a year of separating the layer, can spell disaster. The species in general can take aggressive root work without issues when healthy, but I wouldn't work the roots until the second season after layering.
 

Drew

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Nice growth!

Seems you have enough to find out yourself.....

If it was me....a I'd go easy on the nicest one, and hard on the worst one.

Meet in the middle.

Sorce

HAHAHA you make a good point there Sorce!

I've learned the hard way, at least with semi dwarf cultivars like shishishigira, that aggressive root work within a year of separating the layer, can spell disaster. The species in general can take aggressive root work without issues when healthy, but I wouldn't work the roots until the second season after layering.

This is good to know. when I took the layers off the roots where easily broken hence I left most of the sphagnum moss in place. I'll try to just cut back the wood stump underneath closer to the roots and try to get a bit more of the moss out of the root ball.
 

CWTurner

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Drew, that's some awesome layering! Great little starter trees. An inspiration.
Sorry I can't offer any help on your question though.
CW
 

j evans

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good work and great trees, but I like a lot of things in life, I don't know. Guess we will have to learn from you.
 

Shima

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Since the tree was near a tap you could have used open media mixed with milled sphagnum or vermiculite with moss on top in a plastic pot cut down one side with a hole in the bottom for the branch, watered it often and the roots would have shot straight out from the cut. Then after separation just a shake and the medium falls off and you have a nice root spread right from the start. And you don't have to contend with the possibility of soaked moss leading to failure. But I must say, the movement in your layers is excellent and a good beginning. I'd leave most of the roots the first year then you can reduce them and tweeze out the moss.
 

Drew

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Since the tree was near a tap you could have used open media mixed with milled sphagnum or vermiculite with moss on top in a plastic pot cut down one side with a hole in the bottom for the branch, watered it often and the roots would have shot straight out from the cut. Then after separation just a shake and the medium falls off and you have a nice root spread right from the start. And you don't have to contend with the possibility of soaked moss leading to failure. But I must say, the movement in your layers is excellent and a good beginning. I'd leave most of the roots the first year then you can reduce them and tweeze out the moss.
Hi - yeah I've done two ground layers using straight akadama last year and am looking forward to see the results this spring when I remove the pot. Hopefully with better root results. I'll take picks and post the results this spring be good to compare the difference
 
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Nice results.
Rubbing the sphagnum trough the biggest soil-mesh avoids the problems with removing. Adding akadama helps reducing the chances it is to wet. Do not remove extra roots the year after an airlayer. They grew well for a full season, so they will be ready to use the board-method. I would not reduce to much, but try to get them even. Since they all come from the same tree, have good movement and will have a good rootbase it would be an option to place some together as a group. I hope you update this process.
 

Shima

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Nice results.
Rubbing the sphagnum trough the biggest soil-mesh avoids the problems with removing. Adding akadama helps reducing the chances it is to wet. Do not remove extra roots the year after an airlayer. They grew well for a full season, so they will be ready to use the board-method. I would not reduce to much, but try to get them even. Since they all come from the same tree, have good movement and will have a good rootbase it would be an option to place some together as a group. I hope you update this process.
Rubbing sphag through mesh or chopping in a processor, same same. And in my experience does not solve the problem. But that's just my experience. And akadama holds too much H20 for either ground or air layers. Pumice works just fine for me with about 10% milled sphagnum. Many paths lead to the village.
 

Drew

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Shima - I was thinking of chopping the sphagnum moss up in future layers, so may also add something else to it... lets see

Nice results.
Rubbing the sphagnum trough the biggest soil-mesh avoids the problems with removing. Adding akadama helps reducing the chances it is to wet. Do not remove extra roots the year after an airlayer. They grew well for a full season, so they will be ready to use the board-method. I would not reduce to much, but try to get them even. Since they all come from the same tree, have good movement and will have a good rootbase it would be an option to place some together as a group. I hope you update this process.

Hmmm putting them into a group is an interesting idea, I hadn't thought of that. Could be a possibility.
 
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They have the same flow, the same genes, prepared rootbase, and you have enough. I would make a groep of 3. You can grow out the others. It might be an option to look for those that do not have 360° roots radiating. Exciting...
 

just.wing.it

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Nice work! I plan on trying my hand at air layering next spring, can't wait....for the 30" of snow to melt....
I say keep em solo.
 

jmw_bonsai

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Nice results.
Rubbing the sphagnum trough the biggest soil-mesh avoids the problems with removing. Adding akadama helps reducing the chances it is to wet. Do not remove extra roots the year after an airlayer. They grew well for a full season, so they will be ready to use the board-method. I would not reduce to much, but try to get them even. Since they all come from the same tree, have good movement and will have a good rootbase it would be an option to place some together as a group. I hope you update this process.
Nice tip on breaking the sphagnum down.
 
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