JM Multi Trunk Progression

Drew

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Your right this tree will take anything I throw at it. So my plan is to defoliate it so I get a better look at the tree itself which will then make it easier to branch select like @MACH5 suggests then wire.
@MACH5 do you always select the branch with the closest bud to the trunk?
 

ChrisV

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That's a pretty healthy looking tree you got there! looks like it just wants to grow and bizarre it grew that much out of the pot and still pushed out so much healthy grow.
Doing a great job, however for the future you might want to consider removing one trunk to make it into a triple trunk.
 

Drew

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Hi @ChrisV yeah I have been looking at that lowest right trunk/branch that has got some badly damaged bark down the back of it, I don't think it will ever heal over so I may remove it at some stage and build a branch off the second trunk next to it... will leave it a year or two tho to think about it
 

Drew

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So here it is after defoliation, you can see all the shoots that have grown from the trunk... It's going to be a job to select and wire these now!

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

MACH5

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Your right this tree will take anything I throw at it. So my plan is to defoliate it so I get a better look at the tree itself which will then make it easier to branch select like @MACH5 suggests then wire.
@MACH5 do you always select the branch with the closest bud to the trunk?


Yes you should select one that has a node closest to the trunk specially as you go up the tree. Also I would suggest that some of those lower branches are cut way back to create taper and a better branch structure in the future. Some are long with same thickness throughout their entire length.


Perhaps after you wire it, you might want to take a pic of your maple against a clean background. It is hard at the moment to see what is really going on.
 
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I've a similar project running. Selected branches a month ago, removed half of the leaves so the interior gets light. Select the branches you will use, there are places with 3 branches, growing down or growing inward... I've got smaller growth now, ready to be wired, possibly in autumn. It might be that i work mine this month again, depends on the weather. I like the start on this one...
 

erb.75

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just curious...why did you keep leaves on the end of the shoots? I have my guesses but I want to hear your reasoning
 

JudyB

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That's a big job, good work so far! I don't think I'd be so quick to take off that trunk, it adds a nice singular touch to the tree. Unless you have an aversion to four instead of three.... But I like it with.
 

Drew

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That's a big job, good work so far! I don't think I'd be so quick to take off that trunk, it adds a nice singular touch to the tree. Unless you have an aversion to four instead of three.... But I like it with.
Thanks @JudyB I'm not in any hurry to get rid of it just yet... will give it a few years and see how I feel about it then
 

Drew

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ok so here are the before and after pictures. Most of the branches with nodes closest to the trunk coming out from the same point that I kept were too small to wire:

before:

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


after:

image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 

JudyB

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such a nice clump. do you regularly defoliate this plant? I have never totally defoliated Jm's. And looks like to me that there is plenty to put wire on. Don't put it off or you will be wishing you had in a couple of years.
 

iant

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Ok It's a very nice clump and I don't want to be harsh but what's the point of doing all this work and spending all this time when you have several inch stretches of trunk that are rod straight? Are you really going to dive into branch ramification now and develop great branches on those straight trunks? If this were mine it would always bug me. These JM's grow so fast and you've shown that you know how to grow them so you could grow very nice 2nd sections on those that would both give you taper and give you a change of direction. Why not chop the straight sections just above a line and grow out a side leader and in a few years you'll have a beautiful clump with taper, movement, and no straight sections? Perhaps the straight parts don't bother you and then I'm sorry for being negative but to me I'd chop those and in 3 years I'd be loving the change.
Ian
 

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Drew

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Hi @iant thanks for your thoughts.. I must admit I've never really looked at the tree the way you have in regards to the straight sections. I haven't really noticed them at all (funny that isn't it) maybe because I have another clump with dead straight trunks I'm used to it.
 

Drew

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such a nice clump. do you regularly defoliate this plant? I have never totally defoliated Jm's. And looks like to me that there is plenty to put wire on. Don't put it off or you will be wishing you had in a couple of years.

I've never fully defoliated this one before. The first year I had it I air layered it. The second year I let oy grow then cut it back hard. This year the only reason for a full defoliation was to get rid of all the shoots and let a bit more light in.

I was going to wait till leaf drop to add wire, but I might take another look and see if I can add a little more before bud break
 

sorce

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Might as well wire it while it's naked!

Sorce
 

Drew

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Ok so its almost time to repot this one and wanted to get your thoughts on the block of fused roots in this rootball (circled in black). I'm assuming this has served as a wooden board that we usually screw to the bottom of our trees. the roota above the black circle are so matted its very hard to see whats going on.

Would you cut away the wooden block and start over with the roots above the circle or would you try and use the block somehow in the final nebari design?

These pics where taken spring 2015:

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8344C0B8-1E3B-4620-AE4C-B54DA91EA81C_zpswt6i6h4t.jpg
 

0soyoung

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Ok so its almost time to repot this one and wanted to get your thoughts on the block of fused roots in this rootball (circled in black). I'm assuming this has served as a wooden board that we usually screw to the bottom of our trees. the roota above the black circle are so matted its very hard to see whats going on.

Would you cut away the wooden block and start over with the roots above the circle or would you try and use the block somehow in the final nebari design?

I would begin by radially combing out the roots on top. Then remove roots that won't lay out radially (or remove the outer portions of roots that 'kink'/zig-zag). This should lead you to removing much of the heavy roots underneath, but you want to work this mess down to a nice pad of radially spreading roots. The caveat, of course, is that it may take another repotting or two to get to a good root pad - don't be too aggressive.
 

iant

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I agree with Osoyoung. I'd remove smaller roots by combing out radially from top down. Sometimes the roots at the top have come from larger roots at the bottom and grown upward to fill the space and use the soil from fallen leaves, etc. If you dig down you may find a plane of larger roots (if you're lucky) that will be the nebari. You'd remove the roots coming off the trunk as you figure out at what level to stop. My guess is that the fused roots are more where they bunched up in the sides of the pot and grew together but that the ones closer to the trunk are not.
Ian
 

Drew

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I remember in 2015 the surface roots were so matted you couldn't comb anything out. I'll give it another go and see what lies under it all.

The caveat, of course, is that it may take another repotting or two to get to a good root pad - don't be too aggressive.
I'll def take it easy and try to sort out half this year and the other half the next repotting.... I'll see how it goes.
 
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