JM Sharp's Pygmy Style Question

[bonsaichile]

Hey all! I just got this Sharp's Pygmy. It is grafted, but tje graft is almost invisible. Tje branches, however, are too heavy and straight and they all come from the same point. Given its long, straight trunk, I thought I could airlayer the central trunk and go for a broom style. Alternatively, I could air layer some of the heavy branches and try to build a moyogi, but this would still leave me wiyh a straight, taperless first trunk section. Any ideas? I am in no hurry, I just did some drastic root work and planted it on a grow box in well draining soil, so I will just let it grow and recover vigor this year.
Thanks all for your help!

 

[barrosinc]

you should check @MACH5 Sharps Pigmy http://www.barrosinc.com/sergio-cua...onsai-exhibition-finest-deciduous-360-bonsai/

 

[bonsaichile]

you should check @MACH5 Sharps Pigmy http://www.barrosinc.com/sergio-cua...onsai-exhibition-finest-deciduous-360-bonsai/

I did! I read the whole thread. A wonderful tree, and I learned a lot. Your 360, Max, that was something else too!

 

[MACH5]

Hey all! I just got this Sharp's Pygmy. It is grafted, but tje graft is almost invisible. Tje branches, however, are too heavy and straight and they all come from the same point. Given its long, straight trunk, I thought I could airlayer the central trunk and go for a broom style. Alternatively, I could air layer some of the heavy branches and try to build a moyogi, but this would still leave me wiyh a straight, taperless first trunk section. Any ideas? I am in no hurry, I just did some drastic root work and planted it on a grow box in well draining soil, so I will just let it grow and recover vigor this year.
Thanks all for your help!View attachment 183747

It seems to me that you could create a nice broom style from the material you posted. All branches of course would need to be cut back drastically leaving only a rough structue and rebuild your ramification from that point.

 

[bonsaichile]

It seems to me that you could create a nice broom style from the material you posted. All branches of course would need to be cut back drastically leaving only a rough structue and rebuild your ramification from that point.

Thank you, @MACH5. I really admire your trees and I have learned a lot by reading your threads.

I was thinking about cutting back those branches to the first couple of internodes and rebuild the canopy from there. It has a slim central trunk. If I go broom style, should I air layer it and rebuild the tree from the outside branches? Or should I include the central leader in the composition?

 

[MACH5]

Thank you, @MACH5. I really admire your trees and I have learned a lot by reading your threads.

I was thinking about cutting back those branches to the first couple of internodes and rebuild the canopy from there. It has a slim central trunk. If I go broom style, should I air layer it and rebuild the tree from the outside branches? Or should I include the central leader in the composition?

Thanks Bonsaichile!

The are several forms of broom style. Some follow a more orthodox broom style form based on Japanese rules and aesthetics. Others are looser variations but still fall under that stylistic category. In some cases, such as with your tree, the trunk tapers up fairly straight as branches radiate all along a good portion of the trunk. That varies as some trunks are designed to be shorter while others a bit longer. The key in this style is to have all branches working together to form the rounded classic broom silhouette.

 

[Littlejoe919]

Following

 

[bonsaichile]

Thanks Bonsaichile!

The are several forms of broom style. Some follow a more orthodox broom style form based on Japanese rules and aesthetics. Others are looser variations but still fall under that stylistic category. In some cases, such as with your tree, the trunk tapers up fairly straight as branches radiate all along a good portion of the trunk. That varies as some trunks are designed to be shorter while others a bit longer. The key in this style is to have all branches working together to form the rounded classic broom silhouette.

I think I see what you are saying. Just one more question: When is the appropriate time to do the hard prunning of the branches? I have read in some places to do it in the Fall, in others, late Winter/early Spring. Any advice? Thanks!

 

[MACH5]

I think I see what you are saying. Just one more question: When is the appropriate time to do the hard prunning of the branches? I have read in some places to do it in the Fall, in others, late Winter/early Spring. Any advice? Thanks!

If your tree has leafed out, let it go and you can cut back after leaves harden usually around June. If not do it now! The maple may bleed profusely. Don't be alarmed, it will be fine.

 

[bonsaichile]

If your tree has leafed out, let it go and you can cut back after leaves harden usually around June. If not do it now! The maple may bleed profusely. Don't be alarmed, it will be fine.

It hasnt leafed out yet, but I just repotted it with a drastic root pruning (first time out of the nursery soil for this tree!). would that matter?

 

[MACH5]

It hasnt leafed out yet, but I just repotted it with a drastic root pruning (first time out of the nursery soil for this tree!). would that matter?

No not really. Maples (and deciduous trees in general) can take it unlike conifers that will take only one major operation per year.

 

[bonsaichile]

Thank you, @MACH5