JPB development

[MrWunderful]

I suppose you can if you think there is some benefit in doing so. It delays the healing of the scar where the sacrifice will be cut.

There is a technique, however, that can help promote the healing process. It’s one of Mr Ebihara’s techniques. Right where the trunk meets the sacrifice, take a chunk off the top of the sacrifice branch. Maybe half way through. Apply cut paste along the trunk where you removed the chunk. Next year, remove half of what’s left. (In the chunk section). Finally, in the third year, remove the branch. During the time you’ve been removing “chunks” of the base of the sacrifice branch, the portion above, along the trunk, should have been healing. The idea is the wound above the branch is starting to close over by the time the branch is completely removed.

I am familiar with the technique, but I wasn’t sure if it Was effective with conifers. Thanks for the reply.

 

[MrWunderful]

Too often a question is asked and answered in a general context.
There are several reasons why it may make sense to remove a sacrifice branch in stages. In development stages the removal of an apical sacrifice branch will often be done in stages for one of the following reasons.
1. Multiple opportunities to encourage bud back below the removed portion. Gaining additional lower branching for development! ( each time you remove a portion it triggers a response)
2. Balancing the foliage to ensure remaining vigor in the tree! taking too much off at once can place undue stress on the tree, weakening it or possibly killing the tree. If there is weaker foliage below then the tree is set back by the removal of too much strong foliage above. Slower development.
3. Starting lower branching with bud back and then continuing growth of the apical leader until trunk size is adequate! Important developmental sequence to avoid grafting branches later! Often done in year two or three of development, then grown out to year seven or eight until the trunk is well over 3 inch diameter. ( pines in particular)

great reply thanks for your time.

 

[parhamr]

I plucked needles, removed some unnecessary branches and buds, trimmed back to interior buds, and then did some wiring.

Before


After thinning


After some wire (ugh, what’s visible is a little sloppy)


Tonight’s beverage

 

[parhamr]

Off with its sacrifice branch! What’s above my hand was this year’s growth. The total length removed was about 3.5 feet.


That branch had become pretty chunky


The base of the tree is now a bit larger than a 12 oz can, which makes for a fun comparison to 3 years ago

 

[cmeg1]

That worked good

 

[0soyoung]

What a sacrifice!
Rainier in Portland?

 

[AnacortesSteve]

What a sacrifice!
Rainier in Portland?

Notice it's not open he just uses it for pictures

 

[roberthu]

This is a really nice progress! Always good see how a weak tree regain strength and grow vigorously.

 

[parhamr]

I repotted it this year


This is close to its optimal orientation. It would show a little more of the trunk movement if turned a touch clockwise. Otherwise, I’m quite pleased with this as it also corrects the horribly wrong backward lean I gave it in 2017.

It’s been sitting on my heat bed since the repot.

 

[parhamr]

The tree had a great response and was pushing some really strong candles. Here it is June 7 with some burlap hiding branches that didn’t make a good apex


I was a touch late on thinning the tree but it needed it. The vigor of the first couple of branches is at risk by too much foliage in too little space.

November 18, 2021
Before


After thinning, but before I put on some wire (I don’t have photos of the current state)


It needs another few years of transitional techniques between development and refinement. I’m likely to continue removing a fair number of branches to better delineate pads and to make the trunk line visible.

At the next repotting I think I can get this angle almost finalized.

 

[cmeg1]

Has really come a long way