Juniper 3 Work Thus Far

[Bonsai Forest]

Juniper Procumbens #3:

Early Summer:


Most recent:



Minor work:

A little paste to seal and heal, wire up apex when growth hardens, and slip pot in the Spring to enter development.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

A good start

Kind of feel the inverse taper was caused by way more then two branches there. Not uncommon for procumbems junipers. Likely there was a number of branches at that spot.

Likely best to wire out the tree this fall.

If the plan is to up pot in spring, it’s best to do a proper repot. Slip potting is a temporary measure best done only if one can match the medias to avoid the lens effect.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai Forest]

A good start

Kind of feel the inverse taper was caused by way more then two branches there. Not uncommon for procumbems junipers. Likely there was a number of branches at that spot.

Likely best to wire out the tree this fall.

If the plan is to up pot in spring, it’s best to do a proper repot. Slip potting is a temporary measure best done only if one can match the medias to avoid the lens effect.

Cheers
DSD sends

There were roughly 3 branches and crotch growth in that location. I stated in my post I’m wiring it up for literati, but I’ll let the scales lay down fully and harden and then apply wire very soon

I’ll be using all organic and black container for the standard development like my other junipers. I likely used the wrong term, but I’m putting the tree into a growing container with organic medium (no longer a bonsai container and inorganic) so it can develop and then go into refinement much later.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Inverse taper can be corrected fairly easily if you are planning on allowing the tree to increase in height and amount of foliage. If you are not planning on letting it get bigger, then inverse taper is much more difficult to correct.

Slip potting is a practice used only by "houseplant people" and is a poor technique for bonsai. Trees do not like their roots being disturbed. A classic beginner bonsai mistake is to repot a tree too frequently. One should plan ahead, repot doing all the root pruning and nebari work needed then allow the tree to grow at least 4 to 5 years or more without disturbing the roots. Slip potting causes damage, seldom has the benefit one desires. Plan ahead and do a proper repot with root work. Mature bonsai are often allowed to go as much as 10 years between repotting. There are exceptions, sometimes deciduous trees are repotted to deliberately slow down growth. But if you are still working on increasing trunk diameter then you do not want to repot more than absolutely necessary.

I would recommend against going back to an organic mix. Especially if you plan on returning to an inorganic mix as the tree approaches maturity.

 

[Underdog]

Great to see you back @Leo in N E Illinois ! Ironically I was thinking of you yesterday and hoping you were well.

B Forest... Do listen to the professor. Unlike me, you can learn a lot from Leo. He is an encyclopedia who types faster than we can talk

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Good to see you back @Leo in N E Illinois !

Concur. P. nana will grow really well in inorganic media. We have three on the bench that are very strong growers in APL+ (1:1:1 + Biochar).

For growing out we use a pot that is a bit deeper and larger than a regular bonsaii’ pot.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Concur. P. nana will grow really well in inorganic media. We have three on the bench that are very strong growers in APL+ (1:1:1 + Biochar).

For growing out we use a pot that is a bit deeper and larger than a regular bonsaii’ pot.

Cheers
DSD sends

@Bonsai Forest - you probably know the code, but just in case there are any "new to bonsai members", the "code: APL +(1:1:1 + Biochar)" translates to akadama, pumice, and lava in equal amounts, plus a handful of biochar or horticultural grade charcoal. (note - charcoal briquettes for grilling food are NOT horticultural charcoal, they are coal powder, compacted to bricks.) Biochar or hort charcoal is added at about 5% to 10% of total mix. Exact amounts of all components is not overly critical. This is a tried and proven blend that has been shown to work over a wide range of environments. Other media can work well, but will need to be tailored to your specific micro-climate.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thanks Leo! Got lost in the acronyms

Anyways this clarify, we use 5% Biochar in our media mixes.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Bonsai Forest]

Inverse taper can be corrected fairly easily if you are planning on allowing the tree to increase in height and amount of foliage. If you are not planning on letting it get bigger, then inverse taper is much more difficult to correct.

Slip potting is a practice used only by "houseplant people" and is a poor technique for bonsai. Trees do not like their roots being disturbed. A classic beginner bonsai mistake is to repot a tree too frequently. One should plan ahead, repot doing all the root pruning and nebari work needed then allow the tree to grow at least 4 to 5 years or more without disturbing the roots. Slip potting causes damage, seldom has the benefit one desires. Plan ahead and do a proper repot with root work. Mature bonsai are often allowed to go as much as 10 years between repotting. There are exceptions, sometimes deciduous trees are repotted to deliberately slow down growth. But if you are still working on increasing trunk diameter then you do not want to repot more than absolutely necessary.

I would recommend against going back to an organic mix. Especially if you plan on returning to an inorganic mix as the tree approaches maturity.

Correct, I still intend to place the tree in development. Acquired as is, but will develop the same as my other junipers.

 

[Bonsai Forest]

Trunk: terminal apex progression of maturity


Primaries maturing
Secondaries maturing
Tertiary foliage emerging


Again


Still planning to repot into growing container for development and thickening in the coming Spring 2024 - considering a future design: