Juniper Foilage Issue

[mlin]

Help!

I have a Juniper which has faded from bright green to dull green. There have been no changes over the past year and watering schedule as and when soil dries out. Planted in Akadama/Kiryu blend, also have other trees without any issue. The image is close up of the scale from a healthy tree and the one with issue. The dulling appears to be something covering the foliage or a reaction but I am unsure what it could be. It's been a couple of months now with no die back, I assumed it would wither and brown but as in photo can see it is still growing with brighter tips on the new growth.

I have tried a miticide, horticultural oil, insecticidal soap without much change. I haven't tried a fungicide as there are so many types that treat different issues, there are also contact and systemic fungicides to choose from. Hope I can borrow from someones experience to overcome this issue.

Thanks in advance..

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

It may be spider mites. If it is, something like Forbid or Avid will kill them, but dull foliage won’t turn bright green again.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Looks like spider mite damage to me too.
They are super resilient and can grow to be insecticide resistant in a short timespan if not treated thoroughly. By that I mean you have to hit them all and remove nearby plants that are a possible source.
To prevent this resistance - and only my blaauw junipers are affected by mites and only during summer - I alternate insecticides if I have to use insecticides. I have noticed too that the color doesn't come back.

It would help if you fill out your location info on your profile. We get freezing winters for instance, so spider mites are not that big of a deal since they're inactive for 6 months a year. In warmer climates however, they can be a 365 days a year pest and require more management.

To get well fitted advice, it sometimes helps to know where in the world you are.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

New shoots are looking fresh in the close ups by the way. And that's where spider mites love to feed the most. So I think you have this under control.

 

[sorce]

when soil dries out

Treat the problem not the symptom!

Welcome to Crazy!

Seems like our tree is barely alive and is throwing "please let me live" growth now that it's too cold for mites.

Real Pics!

Sorce

 

[mlin]

Looks like spider mite damage to me too.
They are super resilient and can grow to be insecticide resistant in a short timespan if not treated thoroughly. By that I mean you have to hit them all and remove nearby plants that are a possible source.
To prevent this resistance - and only my blaauw junipers are affected by mites and only during summer - I alternate insecticides if I have to use insecticides. I have noticed too that the color doesn't come back.

It would help if you fill out your location info on your profile. We get freezing winters for instance, so spider mites are not that big of a deal since they're inactive for 6 months a year. In warmer climates however, they can be a 365 days a year pest and require more management.

To get well fitted advice, it sometimes helps to know where in the world you are.

Updated profile, Singapore weather is always hot!

 

[HorseloverFat]

If treating for mites (non-systemically).. remember the containers, tables, tools, shoes.. wall nearby...

Every mite issue I’ve EVER encountered was due to weak plants from under watering.. so @sorce is also not wrong.

 

[mlin]

Great advice , didn't realise surroundings would also need treating. Everything will be getting sprayed now, until now that was the only tree getting treated! Luckily surrounding trees not affected.

For watering I normally wait until media is dry on top and (not bone dry) before the next drench so as to not keep too wet. Will get my hands on something like ABAMECTIN to treat asap.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

For watering I normally wait until media is dry on top and (not bone dry) before the next drench so as to not keep too wet. Will get my hands on something like ABAMECTIN to treat asap.

Sounds like you are getting on top of this issue.

Just a gentle reminder to please be sure to read the SDS of whatever product you use, not just the product label.

Abamectin is one of those chemicals that is effective, yet can be dangerous to the user, others and the environment. Here’s a recent example SDS of Abamectin (please look for the exact SDS as the formulations vary). Note especially the inhalation/ingestion/skin contact danger.

The standard precautions for users would normally be gloves, goggles, overalls, rubber boots, and a respirator and spray at a time that the air is calm. An N95 or similarly rated KN95 should work for non intensive garden work - dispose after use. Intensive use, like spraying the entire area would require a regular respirator with disposable filter cartridges made for spraying pest/insecticides.

Good luck and Cheers!
DSD sends

 

[HorseloverFat]

Luckily surrounding trees not affected.

I normally just treat the whole area when i notice them at all.. “Once-bitten Twice-shy”.

They are far more “James Bond”-like than you’d imagine...

The tip is to “beef up security”... natural security... get your trees reeeeeal healthy, and they take care of most pests and funguses on their own.

You’ll start getting a feel for your “annual pest/spore calendar” after a few years of noting such things.. it gets easier..

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Every mite issue I’ve EVER encountered was due to weak plants from under watering..

They were there first. But they become problematic when health declines.
Same with aphids and other bugs; they prefer fresh and healthy foliage, but we humans tend to be too late to with inspections and only see it when the rest declines.

I think the 'bad health plants get infected easier/faster' is a myth. Even bugs prefer a seven course meal over dumpster diving.