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Masterpiece
I'd get some grafts much lower. You could always remove them if you don't like them.
Yes and there are others but how many I do not know. Fudo is another variety of Shimpaku that comes to mind. BVF has a good article about Shimpaku on his blog Nebari Bonsai https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/...s-among-itoigawa-kishu-and-shimpaku-junipers/Following the discussion. Is Shimpaku sub-identified further with Kishu or Itoigawa or others?
Thanks....very helpful information. Clear examples. Excellent detail comments and photo close-ups.Yes and there are others but how many I do not know. Fudo is another variety of Shimpaku that comes to mind. BVF has a good article about Shimpaku on his blog Nebari Bonsai https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/...s-among-itoigawa-kishu-and-shimpaku-junipers/
Our bonsai club got the okay from our city's brass ( (somebody who had authority) that we could dig 10 of 30, 30-40 year old junipers at the juvenile hall that was being demolished, and I was told that they are Sabina's although they dont look like sabina to me. I was curious if it happens to be a Sabina if you or the community has ever grafted shimpaku on Sabina. Will be a while until I'm to that point as the dig was only just this winter and it needs to be growing stronger roots from the foliage that was left alone but I have a sabina I bought a couple years ago in a 5 gallon container from a nursery with a nice 2.5 inch trunk and a dozen 3 year shimps that i want to practice with since I've never done approach grafts before. Anyways I'm rambling big time.Max,
Your last photo there - you're going to need more branch than that. The minimum size is about 3mm diameter branch, e.g. the wood is that thick. I was interested to see Fred Miyahara using larger scions, like 5-8mm, or 1/8-1/4" in diameter. I've never used one that large but now that i see it done I don't see why not.
For me the trickiest part has always been getting the cut deep enough in the receiving branch to get the scion all the way in. So perhaps I'll also try his triple cut method next time.
I should say that my scion grafting experience is minimal compared to Fred - only a dozen trees or so for me. I've also done approach grafts on a dozen or so trees using some different techniques each time with varying results. So far the result I like the most is the recent one that Boon showed me where you use a saw to make a channel for the graft and then scrape the sides and slide it in until it's snug. The union is very natural looking where and approach graft using a flap can end up just sitting on the surface of the branch.
The sharpness of your knife makes a big difference btw. Get it ridiculously sharp, like if you touch it you're in trouble. Using it to create the scion I normally lay the branch on a piece of soft wood and slant the knife. You want the cut to be flat, not dished as you move the knife through. And the end of it should be square, not diagonal, like Fred shows in the video.
My recommendation would be to do some scion grafting for practice as you come out of winter dormancy this spring. Then during the summer do some approach grafts too. There's no reason not to do a lot of grafts on a tree, particularly if you put the practice ones on branches that will be eliminated anyway. When I grafted the tree that is going to Portland I did three practice grafts in positions up on the trunk section that was later removed. They all took and it was one of my first attempts and supervised by Boon.
Varieties - some varieties are easy, some are hard, but if they're a juniper they should be compatible. I have shimpaku on procumbens stock, shimpaku on pfitzer, shimpaku on some random landscape nasty foliage thing, shimpaku on Utah junipers etc.